• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

Timming marks not lined up?

T

T2vigil

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2009
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Location
Just north of Dayton, TN
I've got a timing issue and need info PLEASE. I bought a 64SWB SS with a 230 and three on the tree. I runs but not good as it bucks bad at anything over 55 on level road. It was converted to HEI and even after setting the plug gap and timing there was no improvement. Last night I pulled the plugs and brought #1 to TDC and the timing mark on the balancer is located @ 4:00. From my younger years this is just not right. Am I right in thinking this motor was put together with the timing marks not lined up correctly? If that is the case can the balancer and timing cover be removed and the timing corrected or do I have to pull the lifters etc to fix it? Thanks.
 
T2vigil said:
I've got a timing issue and need info PLEASE. I bought a 64SWB SS with a 230 and three on the tree. I runs but not good as it bucks bad at anything over 55 on level road. It was converted to HEI and even after setting the plug gap and timing there was no improvement. Last night I pulled the plugs and brought #1 to TDC and the timing mark on the balancer is located @ 4:00. From my younger years this is just not right. Am I right in thinking this motor was put together with the timing marks not lined up correctly? If that is the case can the balancer and timing cover be removed and the timing corrected or do I have to pull the lifters etc to fix it? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Try this first before you do anything else, Check to see if you have ported or manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance. A HEI distributor needs manifold vacuum not ported. If the engine runs good at the lower RPMs it could be that the distributor is not reacting properly due to the vacuum source...Big Tim :cool:
 
If you are still having issues you could check for vaccume leaks also, intake manifod, exhaust manifold, etc. Should also take the distributor cap off and make sure the springs/weights are engaging correctly.
 
As it sits right now it is pulling vacuum from the bottom of the carb which does advance the timing. Is this OK or do I need to go elswhere? I did not rev up the engine enough to check the machanicals but when I checked by hand with the rotor off and they were a little stiff but did work. the only two vacuum lines are the one from the valve cover to the exhaust and carb to distributer and no more leaks - fixed one.
 
T2vigil said:
As it sits right now it is pulling vacuum from the bottom of the carb which does advance the timing. Is this OK or do I need to go elswhere? I did not rev up the engine enough to check the machanicals but when I checked by hand with the rotor off and they were a little stiff but did work. the only two vacuum lines are the one from the valve cover to the exhaust and carb to distributer and no more leaks - fixed one.
Click to expand...

Explanation of vacuum..... Manifold vacuum is constant at an idle and ported vacuum is nothing at an idle but vacuum only while accelerating. Try disconnecting the vacuum from the vacuum advance plug it off and see what it does when you drive it. If you put a vacuum gauge on the engine it should read between 17-21 inches of steady vacuum. If the needle fluctuates rapidly then you have a vacuum leak that could be anything from a cracked or broken hose to a weak valve spring. As mention before you can also check for leaks with some carb cleen. If the timing marks were off chances are it wouldn't run at all. You say you have a vacuum line that runs from the valve cover to the exhaust? The line on the valve cover should run through a PCV valve and to the base of the carb where you have manifold vacuum.....Big Tim :cool:
 
Last edited:
A big thanks to Big Tim and Leyland. Vacuum turned out OK but the real issue was the Distributor Cap and Hold down clamp. Once I got the cap located correctly and the hold down clamp tighten enough it now runs great. Thanks again. Terry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top