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5 lug conversion.

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longtops

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Hello all, I'm new here so bear with me. Looking to convert 6 lug to 5 on 64 pickup.How should I go? Money is tight now days,most all of us know that!What you all say?
 
what year? on 63-66 you can also swap out the control arms ,spindles,and brake componets from a 73-87 as outlined in the link in previous post.
If is a 60-62 you can swap out the whole cross member or get a spindle kit, droped or stock hight, but they are not cheep. Good luck keep us posted
 
Ftfy

longtops said:
Hello all, I'm new here so bear with me. Looking to convert 6 lug to 5 on 64 pickup.How should I go? Money is tight now days,most all of us know that!What you all say?
Click to expand...

Money an issue? This is what you do:

Remove one (1) lug from each wheel.

Viola! You're finished. :D










(In reality the link above is your best help)
 
issues

my issues are this: I have total rebuild on my drum system, new drums,shoes,cyl,hoses. All this done on rear also.I thought it might be an air in the lines issue,so I have blead till my fingers bleed and this is what is happening:went to the grand run in pigeon forge and in traffic,each time you touch the brake pedal it is a little closer to the top till it has no free travel and a drag is felt in the truck.WITS END!!!. Don't want to pull the motor or the sheet metal for the crossmember swap so I'm gonna try to sell some junk I mean some valuable stuff to fund a drop spindle, disc brake,rear axle 5 lug swap. Wanna buy something?
 
please dont take this the wrong way..... but are the brakes addjusted right?
with the wheel in the air ( Jacked up) they should have a little drag, addjust them in our out with a brake spoon.
Its just a thought.
I had a disc brake kit for my 60 that I plan on installing some day. I added a dual master and split the brake lines , but I had NO brake pedal the brakes were addjusted to far in.
 
longtops said:
Hello all, I'm new here so bear with me. Looking to convert 6 lug to 5 on 64 pickup.How should I go? Money is tight now days,most all of us know that!What you all say?
Click to expand...

This is something I posted back n Jan./10, I hope this helps you...Big Tim :cool:Why don't you go with disk brakes? you can do this cheep if you do what I did. I bought a complete 77 1/2 ton chevy for 400.00. The front spindles will work with the torshon bar suspension if you use a 7/16" to 1" reamer on the lower ball joint hole. You can even use the upper a arms from the 77 cause they are the same dimentions as the 60. The power steering and linkage will work perfectly also if you space the box about a 1/2 to 3/4" away from the frame. The power brake booster and proportioning valve along with all the brake lines will also work with no problem. You should be able to get everything you need off of the late model truck to update your 60 and sell all the left overs to get your money back and then some, I did. Check out my 61 step side, everything came out very clean without buying any expensive kits and was easy to do. These same parts will also work on the 63-66 and you don't have to ream out the lower hole on the spindle. All you have to do is change the lower ball joint to the late model one. 004.jpg

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With all this blogging we have totally forgotten the rear end. You can buy and axle swap from randy's ring and pinion or our host. You can also do a complete axle swap but you will need to purchase a panhard bar installation kit. Either way with a tight budget, if I can't fix it myself then I'll take it to an expert. From what it sounds you didn't adjust the brake shoes properly.
 
brake adjust

pretty sure i know how to adjust brakes! But lets say I don't, why does the pedal creep up? Under adjusted you would have no pedal,correct? Adjustment to tight , wheels won't roll, correct? Normal driving brakes are fine ,wonderful,couldn't ask for better.Stop and go stop and go, pedal creeps.What about a heat problem, lines from master cyl to close to exhaust? Maybe a bad wheel cyl. Tried everything with same results. Lets hear some more solutions and guesses!
 
longtops said:
my issues are this: I have total rebuild on my drum system, new drums,shoes,cyl,hoses. All this done on rear also.I thought it might be an air in the lines issue,so I have blead till my fingers bleed and this is what is happening:went to the grand run in pigeon forge and in traffic,each time you touch the brake pedal it is a little closer to the top till it has no free travel and a drag is felt in the truck.WITS END!!!. Don't want to pull the motor or the sheet metal for the crossmember swap so I'm gonna try to sell some junk I mean some valuable stuff to fund a drop spindle, disc brake,rear axle 5 lug swap. Wanna buy something?
Click to expand...

Alright here's the solution to your problem, are you ready for this kids? the rod from your master to your brake pedal is too tight and you need to loosen up the adjustment so that your master can completely dis engage otherwise it will hold pressure in the system and build more pressure every time you step on the pedal. Because it is just a little too tight it will allow the system to bleed off back to normal after it sits for a while. If you have an after market power brake booster they have also been known to have made the rod too long between the booster and the master. If this is the case you can separate the master from the booster and trim 1/4" off the rod and this will cure the problem. Good luck....Big Tim :cool:
 
longtops said:
pretty sure i know how to adjust brakes! But lets say I don't, why does the pedal creep up? Under adjusted you would have no pedal,correct? Adjustment to tight , wheels won't roll, correct? Normal driving brakes are fine ,wonderful,couldn't ask for better.Stop and go stop and go, pedal creeps.What about a heat problem, lines from master cyl to close to exhaust? Maybe a bad wheel cyl. Tried everything with same results. Lets hear some more solutions and guesses!
Click to expand...

Yea I know you knew how :D Ok a few more " guesses"
1)How close to the exhaust are the lines? You can take a ride and when the problem arises pop off the master cylinder cap and see how hot the brake fluid is. Hot brake fluid is no good.

2) Master cylider it self. What master did you use ?
trying to help ya man
 
The pedal rod is adjustable, even the factory ones. If the shoulder bolt/nut is not used, the pedal is tightening on the arm, via the bolt/nut advancing, every time you apply the brakes. Do you have a shoulder bolt, that allows the nut, to tighten against the shoulder and not the pedal & pushrod?
 
good point on brake rod! it is a makeshift rod, kinda shoddy,don't know why. i should try to locate the correct rod and see if things improve. THANKS for the help.
 
longtops said:
good point on brake rod! it is a makeshift rod, kinda shoddy,don't know why. i should try to locate the correct rod and see if things improve. THANKS for the help.
Click to expand...

I was just going to suggest checking the push rod too.
 
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