How heavy is a cab?

[3/4 gmc 1952]

Hello all. I am about to pull my cab off the frame for a little welding fun and was wondering if anyone knows how many friends i should bribe to make this happen? I was reading aggiejon's blog but he left this part out. Also, is it reasonable to build a 2x4 frame to store it on or should i go will steel? Any body have left over patch panels they want to get rid of? Thanks
Jason

 

[rgmj00]

I recommend at least three people and removing as much as possible. One person on passenger/drivers side, and one at the front (she's front heavy). I've removed a few this way. Set it on something sturdy, wheels would help.

 

[upnorth54]

taking the doors off will reduce alot of weight

 

[3/4 gmc 1952]

Thanks

That is a big help. I was planning on 4 to be safe. I like the cart. Looks fairly simple to fab together. The cab is gutted, doors off and all glass is out. Even the seat riser is out so I am hoping it won't be too bad. Thanks for the input.
Jason

 

[Zig]

I thought about doing this, but then just decided to just roll it over on it's back and leave it on its frame. I was able to get the bottom of the cab painted, the tranny cleaned and painted, and the frame all purdied up. It worked out well, and I was able to do this with the help of only one friend. (Before you say anything, I *DO* have more than one...) I got it back upright all by my little lonesome, however. It's really not that bad.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

 

[3/4 gmc 1952]

Good thought

I like this idea. Save me the steps of building a frame. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[vwnate1]

Cab Repair

O.K. , most of these truck had terrible jig work when they were built so the doors never quite lined up properly , even when new on the Dealer's lot .

Assuming your floors & cowl corners are swiss chesse like most other AD's , NOW is your golden opportunity to play like the big boys and correct GM's mistakes :

Rebuild or replace the door hinges first then align & force fit the doors until you like where they are then ever so carefully TACK WELD THEM IN PLACE , then remove or roll back the cab for floor & structural rust repairs , when you're done , cut the tack welds and marvel at how nice and perfectly aligned your entire cab is , the belt lines now match up and the doors open & close easily instead or needing major slamming......

You cannot do this after the welding is finished ! .

 

[3/4 gmc 1952]

Nate. You are a man of great wisdom. It shall be done! Luckily the cab corners are solid. Cowl does need some patching and kick panels but not too aweful. I will be sure to post some pictures of the progress. Thank you!

 

[gypsy truck]

on a half sheet of plywood for uniform pressure?

... to just roll it over on it's back and leave it on its frame...

It took me a while to realize just what you were saying here. I had it pictured ALL wrong. Anyway, would it help distribute the stress and pressure on the back of the cab laying down on the frame rails if you placed a 1/2 sheet of plywood on the frame first? This would spread out the pressure points more evenly. Not sure it is necessary not knowing the weight of the cab and where it will lay on the frame, but i don't see where it could hurt. You might need to use some blankets and such to wedge the cab from rocking while working on it also.

 

[vwnate1]

NOT ' Wisdom ' !

Just hard won experiance .

FWIW , I hate , or at least intensely dislike , restoration work .

I just keep 'em running sweetly and drive all over the darn place whilst the show queens collect dust instead of sticky fingerprints from happy kids eating ice cream in them after the work is done........ .

In the end , YOU'RE footing the bill so do it how it pleases you , not how others think .

(unless of course, you want to install a v-ate) .

 

[Zig]

Yes, I put something down on the frame, but I believe it was just over the rails. The back of the cab is slightly rounded, so I avoided using something flat to lay it on over the rails. I also had the doors off before I did this.
The door problem seems to be a Chevy thing. I've had my doors off and on three times so far and they close just fine. ;^)

 

[ol' chebby]

Just hard won experiance .

FWIW , I hate , or at least intensely dislike , restoration work .

I just keep 'em running sweetly and drive all over the darn place whilst the show queens collect dust instead of sticky fingerprints from happy kids eating ice cream in them after the work is done........ .

In the end , YOU'RE footing the bill so do it how it pleases you , not how others think .

(unless of course, you want to install a v-ate) .

A men, brother. You will be happy to know that the 53 is driven regularly, I had a visit with it a couple a weeks ago when down at my cousin's wedding, all is well.

 

[3/4 gmc 1952]

I am hoping to drive this one regularly. Snow might be the only issue since we get a lot and my road is a challenge even with 4wheel drive!

 

[vwnate1]

Door Alignment & Jig Work

Yes,
The door problem seems to be a Chevy thing. I've had my doors off and on three times so far and they close just fine. ;^)

Nope ! my '49's doors both open & close with delicious clicks , no slamming ever needed . (thanx to Joe @ DeadZoneTrucking for the N.O.S. latches)

This infuriated John @ my old Shop who's '49 had the usual terrible door fitment , he removed the exterior skins & aligned the door as best he could then re - welded the skins back , on his $90,000 Hot Rod and still my old beater's doors fit & looked better , he went crazy when I turned down his offer of $10K because I knew he'd just take my cab and scrap the rest of the truck as it's nothing special , just another old California AD .....

IIRC , he scrapped out two other trucks to build his '49 Hot Rod and it was a well done , 100 % finished truck when he bought it for $32,000 .