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Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Raz76, May 14, 2012.

  1. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Thanks I appreciate it.
     
  2. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    A core support, hood latch panel, hood, grille and fenders are required to make a chevy front end. The holes could be patched up where the grille mounts, but you may not have the holes in the grille opening for the chevy grille. Since you have them, I'd use the GMC parts, make the grille surround fade into the fenders at the bottom and put a stainless tube with curved ends (think handicapped bathroom rails) as a floating grille.

    Look for the #s on the rearend, then do some snooping on camaro restoration sites. They were also in Novas, basically a family car with Camaro underpinnings.

    Don't consider a dropped axle on these trucks, everyone I know that has tried one said they spent almost as much as on an IFS and it drives like crap. ALL of them hated it.

    When building the frame, I highly reccommend boxing the whole thing. These things were flexy from the factory by design, boxing will make a huge difference. Also weld in the crossmembers you end up using, the rivets frequently have loosened up over time.
     
  3. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Found a number on the rear end and found out its from a 72 Camaro. Im gonna have the entire thing rebuilt before it goes on the frame. As fare as boxing the frame, I was thinking about cutting the 3/4 ton frame and using that to box in the frame. Im gonna do the Mustang II upfront and thinking of a 4 link in the rear. I also decided to keep the GMC since all I really see around here is Chevy. I want to be different and rock a GMC. I thought the chevy and GMC fenders where the same?. Thanks for the advice, that's what I was looking for, a little insight.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2012
  4. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    :)

    As far as help goes you have gotten a lot will get more but, Sometimes, well a lot of the time we have to go to work, or do honey-do things, play with our Grand Children, or have to work also on our own trucks. Sometimes we feel like not even turning on the computer and see what’s on line. Sometimes as Ken stated we haven't a clu as to what is being asked, or think maybe the asker should go into the stone tablets and read what is back there. And yes sometimes we all have absolutely nothing to say or add to the board. Me I’m glued the computer at work for nine hours and frankly some times do not turn the thing on for days at home. You’re doing a great job hang in there.

    Charles
     
  5. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    I was in Florida on Vacation this past week. On my way there I saw this beauty on the I-20 E, I believe I was in Mississippi or Alabama, dont recall. Just wanted to share.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2012
  6. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    That is a great looking truck traveling down the interstate, Thanks for sharing Ray.
     
  7. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Found more pics, same day.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  8. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Ok guys, I have few questions, The Chevy truck at the top of the page had a big brake kit upfront. Im assuming that he had IFS. Is the Mustang II IFS really from a mustang or is just called that? If it is from a Mustang, what year mustang and is that possibly how those guys achieved the big brake kit? Thanks.
     
  9. Root2812

    Root2812 Member

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    They aren't out of a mustang. They are designed using the geometry of the Mustang II's suspension because it was so good. There are many aftermarket kits made in many widths to fit different vehicles.
     
  10. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Just Mustang geometry. Fatman's kits have big Chrysler corporate balljoints, metric GM calipers and Camaro or Granada rotors, depending on bolt pattern.
     
  11. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    When I bought the Chevy 1/2 Ton frame, it came with the original front suspensions. If I was to keep that, what options do I have to lower the front on the stock 1/2 axle??
     
  12. Zig

    Zig Member

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    You can...

    ...get dropped spindles or dropped springs. I got 2" dropped springs from Eaton. I didn't want much, just a tad. Someday I'll see what that looks like~ :(
     
  13. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Do you have a link?
     
  14. Zig

    Zig Member

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    You bet!

    Just put in eatonsprings.com
    It will take you to the site. I got the number and called. Talked with a rep to make sure he knew I had a 3/4 ton that I was putting a 1/2 ton axle under. (In case it made a difference...)

    Good luck!
     
  15. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    What do these mean on my engine block? Thanks

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    The A251 is a date code that the part was cast. A = January, B = February, etc. The last digit = 1 = the year. Without knowing other details the 1 could mean 1941, 1951, 1961, etc. The one or two digits (two in your case) are the day of the month that the part was cast.

    The 2136477 is the casting number (not part number) for a 1939-1952 GMC 228" or 1946-1952 270" cylinder head according to Rob English's web site here: http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/Photos/GMC_Numbers.htm
     
  17. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Simply Put ;

    It means you have there a GMC LONG MOTOR so you're better than all us envious Chevrolet guys :rolleyes: .
     
  18. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    What could I sell an engine like this with transmission?
     
  19. Raz76

    Raz76 Member

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    Quick question, can the mustang II be bolted on or only welded?
     
  20. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Weld on, but very simple to do.
     

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