1949 Chevy 3600......making it a daily driver!!

Thanks.........

 

No updates from the weekend. We were out of town doing some fun fall activities with the kids.

My waterpump is in at the Auto Parts store and my carb kit is coming in this week.

 

good lil truck bud!

im so glad we dont get snow and cold here in AZ, thats half the reason i left PA

 

Yeah , I know........

Nevertheless , once you're driving it , if you do it right , there is a huge difference from hor Brand 'F' and Dodge trucks drive...

You'll see .

 

Surface rest

I have a 1949 GMC pick-up looking for that barn find look, Can you seand me the link on articles on surface rust removal using CLR and scotchbrite. How about more pictures of the hood done,Thanks- vkenney@bellsouth.net

 

There are a ton of articles on Killbillet and Hamb regarding CLR to remove surface rust. A google search turns up a ton.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3852535&postcount=23

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=213707&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0





The green scotchbrite does definately scratch the paint, leaving a satin finish. Not sure if it could be brought back by buffing. I am really happy with the finish.

Some guys suggest using really fine steel wool to avoid the scratches.

 

Not much to report lately.

I put a carb kit in the greezy ol W1.





Definately runs and starts better. Still having an issue with it flooding itself out......or starving itself. It just get to the point that is coughs and bogs and dies. If I pump it a couple times it usually starts right back up.

Other than idle adjustment and float adjustment, is there anything else to change on these carbs short of changing jets?

 

Put new plugs in today. #4 cyl plug was wet on the old plugs. Pulled the #4 after I replaced the plugs and it was normal.

Adjusted the floats to give it some more fuel and it seemed to be the trick. Starts better and seems to run great.

Pulled the water pump, which was spewing water all over. There was a water pump sitting in the bed of the truck when I picked it up.......feels solid, so hopefully it is good.

 

Carby Details

After you've put a see through plear plastic NAPA/WIX # 3001 fuel filter just before the carby inlet , then you should seriously consider trying " Grose jets " ~ this is a specal float valve that has two steel balls inside it instead of the usual cheap to make needle & seat .

" Two Balls Does The Trick " .

What it does is : provides vastly superior fuel level control and stops the carby from spewing hot fuel down the venturi and flooding the engine when you shut it off hot .

I really need to get off my bum and buy one for my '6 C/10's 250... it floods terribly every time I shut it off hot , gotta hold the throttle to the floor and crank it moment before it roars to life with a cloud of black smoke .

Black smoke is always un burned fuel .

 

Thanks Nate......I will pick up a filter tomorrow when I pick up my other stuff!!

I will look into the Grose Jets.

 

Grose Jets

When you find a good site that's affordable & reliable , let me know ~ I really need to do this as I'm flu$hing $$ away @ $ 4.72 / Gallon....

 

Sounds good.....I will!!

 

Short day of work on the truck.

Ordered new radiator hoses and a water pump gasket since I could not find them locally.

Installed a filter like Nate suggested. tried to start the truck to warm it up to change the oil. It would not run worth a crap. Looked at the clear filter....no fuel.

Pulled the line apart between the pump and carb and pushed air threw it. Not a problem.

Had my son help me and did the same on the line from the tank to the pump. Blocked almost completely. We cut the line by the pump and rigged up a temp tank under the hood. Problem solved. Should have listened to you guys about replacing the line.

Do I buy a prebent replacement, or bend my own?

Solved (sorta) my starter pedal problem. I tapped two thick washers to the button on the starter, no it works every time. I do not see an adjustment to make the lever closer to the button. Might just weld a bead on the lever and call it good.

Lastly got the truck up on blocks to take a look at the brakes. They look in pretty good shape. Amazingly all the drum screws came out easily.

 

Fuel Pipes

I certainly didn't uggest cutting them , I always clean 'em out with coat hangers & so on unless they're severely rusted internally they're fine .

Inline Tube Co. has the best pre bent steel pipes but if you really want to feel good , go buy some correct size brake piping @ NAPA and a tubing cutter and a pipe bender (simple tool) and have at it .

If you ruin it or make the bends so nasty you're embarrased , no biggies , it's only $10 orth of piping .

If however m you make the bends O.K. and it looks O.K. , you'll be busting yer buttons with pride and ready to try another new thing......

I use steel pipes set in the ground or whatever's handy as a bending buck , it's not difficult .

 

It did not seem rusty....but varnished up. I could not see how you could ever truely know if it is clean inside or not.

Looks like prebents are $59 through the host. I will pick up some tubing and borrow the tools and see how much damage I can do. I am an electrician by trade so bending some pipe should not be a problem!!

 

I went through a lot of this as well. I just bought the SS lines. I think I got these from our host, or LMC, I can't remember now. Both places are here in KC. If I had to do it over again, I would have replaced the lines earlier I did my tank as well. As mine was nothing but rust.

 

More than one person suggested replacing the lines immediately.........which now I can understand.

 

So how do I preceed with reviving the brakes?

Pads look good except for the passenger side rear where the pad fell off the shoe. Hoses look good.

I was thinking about pulling the master cylinder, cleaning it up and trying to figure out if if needs to be rebuilt.

Push some air through the lines, add some fluid and see if I can get them to bleed?

Advice?

 

Tried to remove the cap on the master cylinder today.....apparently someone else did at some time with no success.



I could not get it to budge......looks like a new master cylinder is needed!!