1949 Chevy 3600......making it a daily driver!!

Do you have a pic that shows the problem with your starter pedal?

By the way, your pictures are Ike art

 

No I do not. It seems like the pedal does not travel far enough to push the button every time. By adding 3/16" of an inch to the button it solved the problem.

Thanks.

 

New MC, FULLY flush the lines. Look them over and if any look crusty with rust, replace them all.....they will bust, but when? I have a how to on teh brake lines, it is easy and only takes about a day. New rubber lines....all of them. Some things you just don't skimp on.

 

What russ said

As brakes are a SAFETY ITEM .

I wasn't going to mention the shoes but rust , anywhere on the brake shoe , means the friction materiel is getting ready to fall off , usually whilst you're driving .

Tha master is toast , this means all four wheel cylinders are too and of course , all three flexible brake hoses .

Maybe you should replace the steel pipes , go directly to Inline Tube as that's where all the vendors get them from .

DO NOT turn or machine the brake drums ! just clean 'em up by hand .

Rock Auto . COM will have all the shoes and cylinders etc. you need for the best price , DO NOT buy Chinese crap here ! Wagnor or Bendix brand is the very best there is ......

Only take one side apart at a time so the other side will guide you to re assembly .

Consider replacing the springs etc.too .

To test brake retration springs : hold them 4" above clean , flat cement and drop ~ if they bounce they're junk , replace ALL brake parts in axle sets ! .

DO NOT let your old parts out of your sight until the job is 100 % finished ! brake shoes etc. DO NOT need to be turned in before you get new or relined ones , I highly recommend riveted brake shoes .

 

I hear you guys on the safety part......loud and clear. When in doubt replace it.

Can anybody suggest an adequate, affordable flaring tool and tubing bender?

 

Read my tech...lists lengths from NAPA so no flaring involved. The better flaring tool the easier it is to use, but cheap ones can work.

https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=12161

 

I remember seeing that info now that you bring it up. I would just have to account for my longbox. Mine is plumbed a bit different, but really it makes to difference.

 

BTW Tubby, Where are your photos and where are you from? Welcome aboard if you have not been Yet.

 

One of my HVAC techs borrowed me this bad boy after a brief lesson.

 

Sweet, nothing like good tools to work with.

 

Yea......it is nice. Hoping to score a bender on the way home!! Whoop!!

 

Got the fuel tank sending unit unscrewed with a small vie grip....since all the screws stripped when I tried to loosen them with a screwdriver.

Level sensor is toast........

The tank does not look rusty at all, just really varnished up. Is there a way for me to clean it up??

The local radiator shop wants $90 to boil it and seal it up.

 

Not much forward progress this week. The weather has been crap and since the truck is outside.......not much work has been done.

I did recieve my replacement master cyl from Rock Auto.



I also spent 30 minutes cleaning up one of my stock caps with some scotchbrite and some glass cleaner. Probably not the best choice......but it was sitting on the bench in front of me. It cleaned
up so well I stole some of my son's model paint and a bush and painted in the letters. Couple more coats of red and it will look good I think!!



Hoping to hit the local junk yard this weekend and look for some 15" 8 bolt rims that will work.

 

Scored this baby today!!








Anybody have a source for the drip rail mounts for my truck?

 

Steel Wheels

Econoline Vans will have the wheels you need for now , they just don't have the hub cap clips .

Looks like you're making progress ! where was the master clinder manufactured ? .

Just for fun , try my de rusting method of water and Citric Acid Powder , drop that junk master cylinder in and wait , you'll be amazed at how clean it comes out .

 

Thanks for the Econoline tip. No problem on the clips, I can add them myself.

I am not sure on the master cylinder, it is not marked. It is a Cardone.

 

I did have a spare 30 minutes last night after the kids were in bed. I bolted on my new water pump and the new radiator hoses.

I also bolted on a 16" steel wheel off a mid 80's Ford 3/4 ton pickup. It rubs the tie rod end just ever soo slightly. Changing to a 1 ton tie rod end may alleviate the problem, but it will still be close. A 1/2" or 3/4" wheel spacer would surely take care of the problem, but the studs are not long enough for that.

 

Do you really need 1/2 ", or would a thinner spacer do? They make them in several thicknesses. Clearance is clearance, wheather 1/4" or a foot.

 

You know I really need to check Russ. I did not even bolt the tire up. I just flopped it up there.

I will bolt it up tonight and take a look and try to get better measurement. For sure I will need the 1 ton tie rod ends.

Can you recommend a source for the spacers? Thank You!!

 

Found some...........Google is such a valuable tool!!