Installing a C-Notch Building 54 Chevy Truck I've installed a 4 link in the rear. I lowered the frame in the back to be level with the front. Now the frame is sitting on the axle, I would like to install a c-notch to give me about 4" of space for the axle to move up and down. Can anyone recommend some company for c-notches? I was hoping I could find some that would slid over the frame weld then cut the frame to make it easy! I just don't want the c-notch to be to big that I lose some of my bed. I want use the entire bed and keep the c-notch below the bed rails. Thanks
C Notching This article is done by a professional welder . Read this before you weld your notch in Place. https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=20312&highlight=notching Martinius.
Well... actually I am a Mechanical Engineer and a Certified Welding Inspector, not a professional welder. But my day job is working with professional welders, the difference between a great installation and a poor one is more often than not simply a matter of the fellow doing the work.Rico, I usually use a 2x4 on it's side to establish ride height when mocking up the suspension, which gives about 3-1/2" travel. Are you planning to use coilovers and a panhard bar atatched to the rear of the 4 bar brackets?
Yes I plan on using coilovers and the pan hard bar will go diagonal from the rear mount across to the front mount. You can see the hiems on the bottom. And the rear end is at ride height in the picture. I was wanting something like this, maybe a little higher off the top of the frame
I would go with a step notch and box the rear of the frame. If you have a bare chassis, these trucks benefit greatly from a full frame boxing. Box at minimum 1 foot in front and behind the step. I like putting in tubing, then boxing over that with a 1 piece plate inside and out. Overkill, maybe, but I mke shure mine gets me home. I had a step notch before I went IRS, it touched the bed floor, the pumkin would just hit the wood when completely aired out.
Lakeroadster... Lakeroadster, I missed the thread you posted awhile back on this subject. I followed the links to the hatefull comments those guys left on that other forum. My thoughts are those guys are IDIOTS! I value very much the excellent advice and experience you and others on this forum freely give. PLEASE CONTINUE, as this forum seems to be GOLDEN. Ya just can't find this stuff anywhere anymore! Where on earth can you get FREE engineering analysis? THANK YOU!
Rico, I'm curious what brand of four-bar susp. your using? Looks heavy duty enough. I kinda like the looks of Thorbros parts from right close here to where I live, or Art Morrison, but, A.M.E. seems a little pricey.
As ol'chebby stated that is a step notch. They are available from lots of places, do a Google search and type in "step notch": here's an example http://thorbros.com/notches/8-pc-step-notch-kit-sold-pairs You can modify the height based on how you install it. I agree with ol'chebby, boxing the frame is a must. I'd suggest you box your frame from just ahead of your four bar crossmember all the way back past where you will be mounting the coilovers and panhard mount. The coilovers will load the frame behind the step notch so the notch will see significant loading. Here's how I prefer to install boxing plates, by using a groove and fillet. It ensures a more uniform weld and is easier to fit up and weld than a corner to corner weld. And the scallop at the end of the boxing plates helps minimize stresses. It looks pretty cool too after the install. I used the inset boxing plates on my '27 RPU, got the idea from a So-Cal Speed Shop rolling chassis I saw at the Street Rod Nationals back in the late 1990's. Here's some archive photo's of my '27 RPU frame: Hope that helps! Thank you sir. As a "certified old guy" I've caught a lot of grief over the years. But if I see something unsafe I tend to lead with my chin and let the chips fall where they may.
Best Of All , If you look at his red truck , it doesn't readily appear to be so highly modified ~ I bet I could have a field day sand bagging local Hot Rodders up the Angeles Crest Highway or on The Pacific Coast Highway........ . Sleepers are the way to go unless you're insecure and need a " big dick " vehicle to compensate .
Profesional yes ! Lakeroadster I know that you are educated as a mech.engineer and a welding inspector. But i whas thinking of the profesional way you have done your truck. I wish i had your scills. You must excuse me if i said it in a wrong way. Thanks fore the fantastic information and cad drawings about welding c-notches. Martinius
I got the 4 link and crossmember off eBay from a company called Danny's Original Customs out of L.A. I did check out Thor but after shipping I was looking at $180 to get it to my house Thanks for the advice O'Chebby and Lakeroadster, I ended finding a company right here in my town for the c notch for $100 and it's a 8 piece so I can modify it the way I want. They are taller than I wanted, but I decided to leave it in case I decide to bag in the future I will definitely box it in in front and behind the c notch. Thank you guy's I also cut a shelf out of the stock crossmember behind the cab so the 4 link crossmember would be boxed in around it and then I put boxing plates behind it too.
Thanks, got them tac in today. The caps that came with them weren't wide enough for me so the guy is cutting some new one's for me 3 1/4" wide so I can have a lip to weld them together on top and inside the C notch. I'm also getting some boxing plates on Monday which I will tac everything in then taking the frame to my friends house so I can weld everything up with his 220 mig
Awesome. When welding anything thicker than 12 gauge using a 220V power source is the smart thing to do. And when welding frame components using only the best is the only acceptable approach.
Looking Good ! Rico is it ? . I am pleased to see you're taking the time to think this through and doing it right . As mentioned , when welding , penetration is everything ~ I've seen many " professionally " welded things break due to crappy welding , some looked great but failed out on the road . One tow bar I had modified @ work by a licensed and certified welder , failed as I was towing a 3/4 ton van stuffed full of vintage sheet metal , that was bad enough but it then jumped a curb and nearly killed a 7 year old boy who only survived because his Mother saw the unhooked van approaching , ran across the yard and scooped him up *just* in time . So , always do the job right and overkill is barely enough ! .
Thanks Nate, when I was getting ready to weld my Mustang II crossmember in my buddy said to use his 220 mig and I said why? And he told me the 220 welds hotter therefore giving better penetration. I did not believe him until I use his welder for the crossmember now I'm a believer, so everything I've installed on my truck is tac with my Hobart 120 and I will finish it with his 220.
