Best Frame for 55 chevy 2nd series

I just acquired a 55 chevy 2nd series truck that has a S-10 frame under it. It looks way too narrow and after some research I found it is too narrow.
My question is what frame would work the best? Will 70's or 80"s frame work?
Thanks for any advice or experience anyone would like to share.

BBD

 

Frame Choices

By your Handle I assume you're planning a Hot Rod ? .

Thousands of S-10 frames have been used to good effect .

The easisest thing to do is : measure the length from axle center to axle center then go hunting as that determines how much hassle you'll have making it look right , the rest is gravy no matter what suspension and drivetrain you use .

Have fun , keep us posted .

 

55 chevy short box on a 85 chevy 2wd

Big Block Dale;
I'm in the same boat. I just purchased a 55 chevy short box and am building a street rod from scratch. I think I have a good frame and I want to lower it as much as I can without sacrificing ride/handling. I'm going to check out these forums as I go also. I might sub-frame it too. When I bought it the cab/box was strapped to a shortend chassis. I'm off to a good start.
Dieselteacher

 

Here's my plan. Today I bought a 79 camaro subframe for my 55 street rod. I plan to weld it up to a 85ish 2wd pickup chassi. The previous owner shortened the chassi but I wanted to drop it to the ground! I'm planning to purchase a 99 camaro z28 for my eng/trans/diff. Wish me luck. I also no people who use s10s to really drop them and they look cool. Good luck.

 

BBD.
What have you chose for your chassii? I was thinking of a 93 chev 1/2 ton 2 wd. Good luck.
Diesel

 

Best... kind of depends on how you define best.

For a do it yourself guy:

The best frame for a 55 2nd series is a 55 2nd series frame.

I've made scratch built frames and I've used factory stock frames for hot rods. In my opinion it's easier to use the stock frame and modify it. Factor into that though that I do like to fabricate stuff.

For instance, since your going to use a Camaro front clip, if you had a stock frame you'd have cab mounts, bed mounts, etc. already figured out.
​

For a guy with a lot of money:

Just buy this for $12,000: http://nolimitengineering.com/products#!/~/product/category=6157546&id=26244622


or this for $8,500: http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1955-1959-chevy-truck-chassis/


​

Good luck to you in any event. And post up some photos .... 55 2nd series is one of my all time favorites!

John

 

Lakeroadster, have you noticed some of the aftermarket frames have no "X" or "K" members? Fatman and Art Morrison do not engineer this type of bracing into their frames. What do you think about that?
P.S. I've started reading beyond the '47-'54 thread, and finding you everywhere. HA HA.

 

Tech Info

Steve ;

John's advice and thoughts are priceless ~ he has nothing to sell and no axe to grind so pay heed when he speaks .

I looked at the above Fat Man frame and it's nice but what do I know , right ? .

In general I too think modifying the original frame is a big time and effort saver .

They're usually a few degrees off spec. from new so it pays to measure and jig or pull them straight before doing anything else .

 

I'm more of a 60-66 guy myself 50 Chevy LS3, but I do get around. Don't get the wrong impression though, I'm cheap but I ain't easy

X frames vs. ladder frames. For the 60-66 C-10 pickup trucks GM changed from "X frames" to "ladder frames" in 1963. An X frame has better torsional resistance compared to the "ladder" style frames.

But X frames also increase complexity for the assembly line folks. Bottom line is the ladder frames are "good enough" for a street driven pick-up truck.

But if you're building an autocross vehicle a tall frame with x members makes for a super stiff foundation. The blue "Big 10" frame above by No Limit was designed for a purpose built autocross truck. They want it as stiff as possible to keep the tires planted on the pavement.

 

Value priced but, difficult.

Ok, John, I get it. If someone wanted to, they could add a triangular gusset forward of the four-bar crossmember, both sides. This would help for the guy who really wants to "wring-out" his truck and possibly himself.
Now to put you on the spot, who do you think builds the best designed aftermarket frame? For autocrossing?
I like EVERYTHING about Art Morrrison except the price. There is so many, Fat Man, Roadster Shop, TCI, The one you pictured above. My desire is to build my old truck to give a modern SS Camaro or GT mustang a run for their money.
Don't know if I can get that done with the original frame modified. Seems to me, I'm going to need the super-low sway-bar equipped roller frame.
Don't know if I completely believe Morrisons claim of Corvette agility, but they have proven results with tri-five Chevy cars.
The thing is, modern Mustangs and Camaros have positive down pressure with aerodynamics that I won't ever get with a big-fat round fendered truck.
Then...there's always the budget problem, but by time you buy a fat-man frontend, engineer a Thor Bros 4-bar rear, a currie 9" rear with posi, sandblast old frame, brakes, etc., a guy needs to calculate.
Oh, I still like panhard bars better.

 

Lately I`ve seen a lot of guys going to the Dodge Dakota frames, they are a little wider, a little heavier built, may be something to look into....`55 chevy wheelbase is 114 inches, 1982 on up dakota is 116 wheelbase...

 

I too like Art Morrison, but if I was building a true autocross truck and was willing to blow that much cash I'd go with No Limit: http://nolimitengineering.com/products#!/~/product/category=6157546&id=26244622


It's almost a shame to put a body on it... it's a work of art. You couldn't build it yourself for what they sell it for.. at least I couldn't.

Oh, thanks for the acolades fellas...

 

Done a 55 with a Camaro front clip and a Jaguar IRS. Parts run $500 and it does handle well. Have also used the Lincoln/T-Bird/Cougar IRS which are also good but I think the Corvette front and rear are probably the best. The Jaguar is the easiest as the lower frame flange just has to be heated and spread which allows the whole cradle to be put in as a single unit. When used hard in slalom type racing the axle flange seals tend to leak since the inboard mounted rotors transfer heat to the seals. Fine for street and occasional hammer down fun. The only way ANY pickup with ANY CHASSIS is going to turn laps times close to those of a Vette, Porsche, or the Italian super cars is if the owner of the car really, REALLY doesn't know how to drive or know squat about chassis set up. A vehicle with 60+ percent of it's weight on the front wheels cannot possibly run with a 50/50 or 40/60 weight biased one.
+

 

Wow .

Just .

Wow .

I have other vehicles to go fast in , I already out run most Sports cars in my Chevy truck when it's empty and we're in the twisty bits , going fast in a straight line is BO-RING .

Nevertheless , that's *very* impressive .

 

Evan:

Looks like a big rubber band holding the exhaust system up. What's with that??

Bill

 

Ya gotta love that, no sugarcoating.

 

That should be a felony, putting a classic Chevy on a Mopar frame! ​

Did somebody say that these truck chassis' would urn laps times close to those of a Vette, Porsche, or the Italian super cars?​

I think that's a nylon tie down strap? ​

 

Were still talking about trucks right

Well everyone has different needs and perspective on what they want in a their task force Chevy truck. If you need to keep up with the sports cars, then aftermarket
engineered frames would be the way to go (like the ones posted). Then just bolt on your body and sit low. You get disc, fuel tank relocated, and much more suspension to your liking.

On the other hand, the Chevy trucks are trucks, the only lap I do is looking for a parking space at the nearby supermarket, and then I make sure I park by the sports car that took up three spaces. I like modifying (to my skills ability) bolting on manufacture parts supporting and upgrading the existing Chevy truck design. Not to say the jag front end is not cool, but it's a jag front end. If you have the talents to manufacture and design your frames and frame mods, I can appreciate that. Let you mind and ideals loose on these great trucks. I enjoy the ride of a truck, and feel of the truck, even with the stock big steering wheel and I can still take a load to the recycling plant. With some mods, I can keep up with traffic, stop and still somewhat feel of the 50's truck.

 

I am getting left behind

I thought installing a built 1974 350 with about 400 HP and installing a 350 turbo with a shift kit was a big modification for my truck. Also added a '67 12 bolt truck rear end. Still has the straight axle. After seeing what others will do to their trucks I feel like mine is almost pure stock. My truck drives like a 50s truck. No power anything. No accessories. You know something, I really like that. Original suspension so stiff that when I run over a dime, I can tell you the date on it. Takes 40 acres to turn it around. No computer, no fuel injection. Each truck owner only has one person to make happy and that is himself. If it makes you happy to make your truck into a corvette, go for it. I am old and I like old school things. I like carburetors. I like mechanical fuel pumps. I like true dual exhaust but not loud. I like being able to work on my own truck without having to plug in a computer. I like it when the hood is up and you can see the engine and the carburetor, you can look down beside the engine on both sides and see the ground. I made myself happy.
Gerald in Florida
wave at me on your way to Disney

 

Bill,
It is an axle strap for snubbing to trailer. Really didn't mean to step on any toes as the intent was to show that a good handing good driving truck can be put together for a working mans budget rather that squeezing the billfold for 12K right out of the gate. As for our shop truck we have a stock chassied 53 with a green body, blue hood and right door, a well worn 327 with a Holley THREE barrel carb, and Powerglide transmission. The tailgate, front of the bed, and back of the cab are dented three deep but it IS a truck.