I am finally getting around to installing the cab windlace. I re-read all of the previous posts about lubrication for the rubber and the installer, but what I did not find is the order of installation. The channel is broken up into three sections. I tried installing the straight section at the striker end of the door, but soon found it impossible to make the turn on the top section. Does anyone have a suggestion on what order is best to get this done? BTW, I made a tool to clear the channel and it worked great. I just ground down of piece of 3/16" steel to match the channel profile and ran it around with a pair of small vise grips [see photos]. Things are starting to move along quickly for me, so look for a lot of stupid questions. Greg
windlace Sorry the book does not say start at top, It says start at the lock piller and pull it down and lube it. If you stretch it it makes it a little easier .
When you guys refer to "the book" are you talking about the Shop Manual? BTW, are these glued at the ends or are the channels just crimped? Greg
I decided to install the windlace starting at the top. It seems to make more sense. My question now is whether I should wait until the windshield and associated trim is installed. As I started to install the windlace, the spacing toward the windshield looked a little tight and I stopped. I have not gotten any information of the reinforcement clips for the windshield trim (see other thread), so I am kinda at an impasse. Greg
Go ahead and finish, the windsheild trim should but up to it when you install it. You can also use a blunt hook tool if you need to pull the edge out from behind the trim, as you will for the headliner. As far as the clips go, I don't know that I have met a truck that even has those still.
wind lace crimped. crimp upper retainer to weatherstrip; start at a point 4 3/4 foward of the rear end of the upper retainer and work forward for 2 inches
Mission Accomplished! It took 3 hours, but I finished the windlace today. My little homemade tool worked great. I had to grind down the backside to get it to fit in the spots next to the dash. I cut a small section of windlace (1") and made sure it slid easily around the corners and the entire channel. I had to open the corners a little more. I lubed everything down with Armorall protectant. I figured the rubber could benefit from it and it made the channel nice and slippery. I started at the top section near the hinge pillar and pushed and pulled it through the lock pillar; spraying more Armorall as I went. Then I measured the remaining rubber for length, cut it and then fed it down the hinge pillar channel. I won't say it was easy, but it worked well. I am planning on postings some pics of my progress this weekend. Greg
has anyone got any pics on where and how they fit please ? cant find a groove on my cab to fit them too thanks Matt
Check the Classic Parts catalog... http://www.classicparts.com/ 1947-Early-49-Cab-Windlace-Rubber-Black/productinfo/03-105/ The '47 to early '49 used a different type of windlace. Maybe your truck is just masquerading as a "50"?
Greg, The horse is out of the barn now but if there is any painting in the future never ever use Armorall or WD40 anywhere near the entire vehicle. Causes terrible fish eyes in paint. For windlace, vent seals, and other window rubber we use GoJo, the original formula. It's super slippery and cleans up instantly with water.
I have also found that windex works well, just keep spraying.....and clean as you go! KY also works well, water clean up.
