If it's like the Chevy, it should just pop off with a little help from a screwdriver. Here's what the back of the Chevy horn button looks like. Ken
Buck teef ! Way to go Bill ; That looks and sounds like a good 'un . Retirement eh ? congrats , I'm due in 2016 if I can hang in that long . How's about some underhood pix and maybe a .wav file if how it sounds ? . After you remove the steering wheel & polish the slip ring , gently burnish the horn's contact points and it'll toot gangbusters , IIRC a '52 has a horn relay , non ? .
Why yes, yes it does! And the back of a GMC horn button looks just like the back of a Chevy horn button.
Congrats on both accounts. Did you find your '52 in Texas? Disregard the link I sent you on the '55 Chevy. That was before I knew you got the GMC. Nice Choice! Herb
Got the horn button off just as you guys said. The spring loaded horn contact that passes through the steering wheel was very corroded on both ends as was the point that the contact touches the horn switch. Cleaned them both up but it still didn't work. Used an ohmeter to find the the horn switch itself had way to much resistance. Unfortunately I'd probably ruin it opening it up, so I'll just order a new one from LMC as our host doesn't seem to have one for a '52 in their catalog.
Sure , Go Right Ahead ~ Just beat up on us poor old Chevy guys whom mostly suffer L O N G Motor Envy . We can take it , never mind the sniffling you might hear as those roaring high nickle motor pix load up .
Come on, Bill~~~~ Where are the other pictures??? We need engine compartment and interior shots! You *are* retired now, so entertain us, please?
Patience , Zig He's prolly still giggling thinking about how that L O N G M O T O R pic hit us BOW TIE guys ! .
Before anyone spends any unnecessary time trying to figure what's up with my picture, I have the old vacuum advance line kinda laying in there and the water pump is off. The picture is pre newly installed vacuum advance.
Been falling down mountains with boards on my feet in Colorado with the grand daughters since 3/8. I ordered a valve cover gasket before I left (hope FLAPS hasn't sent it back!!) for the planned Nate-directed valve adjustment. I took the idle speed down from 600 RPM when I bought it, to the factory specified 350 RPM and you can hear a definite uneven pattern in valve noise at that speed. I'll take some pictures after I get the valves tweaked and the after-mess cleaned up. Maybe I can get Ken to come buy and hold a cold beer for me. One thing I did notice is that the manual throttle cable is unhooked. If I want to keep the 350 RPM idle, I'll probably need to hook it back up to provide a faster idle when the A/C is running. My guess is that little Sanden compressor won't put out much R-134 at 350 engine RPM.
Question for Nate Nate: Your "hot" valve adjust procedure is on a thoroughly warmed up, but NOT running engine, correct? I understand how to make sure the valve being adjusted is fully closed. I remember adjusting valves on running engines with oil spitting hither and yon with a stubby screwdriver and a box end wrench. I'll do it whichever way you say.
Valve Adjustment Engine stationary ; Run it 'till it's fully warmed up then have at it ~ I like to remove the spark plugs so the engine is easier to rotate . What's the firing order again ? . Be sure you check all the spark plugs to have a .035" gap , use a wire gauge .
Stopped by FLAPS late this afternoon to pick up the valve cover gasket. When I ordered (Mar 7), I told them that I would be out of town until today. Didn't make any difference. When I failed to pick it up in a few days they sent it back to the Dallas warehouse. It'll be Tuesday before I see it again. Just read through the Maintenance Manual. GMC recommends .012 intake and .020 exhaust clearance hot and adjusting it the messy (running) way, but I think I'll stick with Nate's way. Question: Should I use any "stick-em" on the valve cover gasket? If so, what kind? And glue the gasket to which surface, head and/or cover? Maintenance Manual does not mention any.
