Final touches

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Crane, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Crane

    Crane Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    Denver, colorado
    New guy here
    Gotta few questions following a rebuild of a 1954 gm 235 and placed into a 1950 chevy 3800.

    1) accelerator linkage from pedal to carb. The linkage I have from the 1950 doesn't seem to fit. Is the 1954 linkage that much different? Is the 54 a 2 point pivot? Pictures please!

    2) throttle and choke cables/ placement on the carter carb

    3) any words of wisdom on a first start to a rebuilt motor.

    4) 6v to 12 v conversion. Easiest way to do it correct. I know I can use the old 6v starter it will just spin faster. I have a new coil, headlight switch and 12v battery. We're is the best place to put some voltage regulators?

    Thanks guys. All answers welcome.
     
  2. fab51

    fab51 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    138
    Location:
    Central Missouri
    No pictures available yet, but

    here are a few answers...

    1) There is a difference in the placement of the throttle bell crank on the block between earlier and later engines. I don't know exactly when the change was made, but I do know that the '56 235 in my truck has both mounting locations. The earlier one is closer to the middle of the block. The later location is about 3 or 4 inches behind the early one.

    2) On a Rochester B, the choke and throttle cable are held by a clamp that attaches to the rear inside carb screw. The one clamp holds both cables. There is a similar clamp for the Carter carb, but I'm not sure which screw holds it.

    3) I try to make sure that oil has been circulated through the engine. Remove the distributor. Get an old regular screwdriver that you can cut the handle off of. Chuck the screwdriver into a drill and insert it into the distributor hole, being careful to engage it into the oil pump drive. Spin the drill until oil pressure registers on the gauge. If I recall correctly, the proper direction is clockwise, but you would want to confirm that. :)

    Once the engine is fired up, I try to keep the idle fairly low. Let it warm up to operating temperature, looking for leaks and listening for anything abnormal. If everything looks OK, it is time to take a spin.

    4) This topic was just covered on the forum a day or two ago. See here: https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=18654 In my opinion, the easiest way to change to 12 volt is to use a 12 volt alternator with an internal regulator. It requires one main wire to charge and a DA plug with switched power to excite the alternator. A 12 volt generator can be used, but you would need to have a 12 volt regulator. As far as I know, all stock wiring could be used with a 12 volt generator/regulator.
     
  3. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Welcome aboard enjoy the ride while here.

    Charles
     
  4. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    Messages:
    3,164
    Location:
    Charlotte,NC
    Look through my How to assemble an AD thread, I had the same issue with the throttle linkage.
     
  5. Crane

    Crane Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    Denver, colorado
    got it figured out. the swivel point that is post is nicely hidden below the manifolds was found and the linkage fits perfectly.
     

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