We can do a crude AD/S10 conversion in two days which is how long I feel like doing a very crude presentation has taken me on this d*mn computer...
For an E-brake just cut off and re-thread the rod that used to run from the foot pedal to the cross shaft on the AD frame. Install an equalizer...
If running a V8 or the 4.3 V6 it is not necessary to buy the high dollar long temp sensor tube, just drill and tap the rear coolant crossover...
A very simple start in park only switch. Solenoid wire from ignition switch is run through an all weather (boat) starter switch which is activated...
We use a Ford accelerator cable because it just takes a small round hole in the firewall and has a built in return spring. It's in the 11 o'clock...
If using a mechanical fuel pump heat a spot on the front cross member and massage in clearance with a BFH. [ATTACH]
Factory S10 steering shaft from AD column to S10 box. [ATTACH]
Steering column was cut, raised, and floor anchor made. Bushing in bottom of column, AD steering shaft to S10 steering shaft connector and factory...
Radiator raised to clear power steering gear box. Just drill new holes in mount flange and re-mount in a higher position---hood will still clear....
S10 with 2 1/4" spacer. Note S10 frame has to be cut off even with front of steering box for front sheet metal to fit down in place. [ATTACH]
S10 is narrower. [ATTACH]
Factory wheel center line bisects the head light. [ATTACH]
Factory rear bumper brackets will fit S10 frame with 2 3/8 inch spacers. [ATTACH]
Front bumper brackets modified to fit S10 frame. Final ones are formed from strap to eliminate welds. [ATTACH]
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