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See the link to the shop manual in previous post. Engine Assembly 6-4 and 6-5 explains how the heat riser works along with two good pictures (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4). Read that then look yours over and make sure it works like it should.

You can flush out the old coolant and add fresh 50/50 mix of antifreeze (green stuff) and put in a new 180 degree thermostat. Make sure the hoses are in good condition and the cap holds correct pressure. Another thing to check is the distributor. Make sure the vacuum advance is working...

I assume you have a stock 6 cylinder engine, if so, you should get yourself a factory shop manual. The attached is from the manual, it's hard to read but it tells you about how the heat riser works and what happens when it doesn't. This could be part of your problem along with poor quality gas...

Remove the gas cap and drive around and see if it's better. Might just be a plugged gas tank vent. Heat riser may also be stuck. This will cause what you are describing.

Jim Carter Truck Parts has a few replacement parts that are made with the correct gauge metal and are also Made in the USA. The inner cowl panels and the inner-to-outer cowl pieces I bought fit way better than the imported ones, which didn't even come close to fitting.

Here's a '51, should be the same as a '50

G-bodys used a perimeter frame (see pic). The front stub is pretty heavy duty, after that it's just flimsey sheet metal formed into a "frame" that went under the perimeter of the car. Not a good choice to put under a truck. Grafting just the front stub to the existing truck frame is what a lot...

spare tire holder If your interested, I have an complete, original under bed spare tire assembly from my 1951 Chevy 3100 you can have for $100.00 I'll even include a spare tire. Of course you'd have to pick it up in MN as shipping would be pretty expensive.

I did the S10 frame swap and believe me it was a lot of work to get it "just right". It's also not a quick and easy swap. I see lots of "projects" slapped together for sale on CL, and many say. "almost done", or "easy to finish" but most are far from it. While I love the way mine turned...

I'd say the B 1 7 code proves it's 1967 vintage rear. Double check your width dimension. Your width appears to be closer to a Nova than a Camaro. Lastly, pull the rear end cover and get a count of the teeth on the ring gear. Not much more you can do. Good Luck, Rick

Rear end Appears to could be a 1967-69 Camaro 10 bolt, but it would be 60" wide backing plate to backing plate. It could also be from a 65-67 Nova, they are 57.75" wide backing plate to backing plate. Date Code B 1 7 = (B)=Feb. (1)=day (7)most likely 1967 Go here...

I like the look of the original gauges and came up with this. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655201&highlight=tech+vintage+tach

Gauge Decals I had a graphics shop make some decals for me using artwork I created. A good shop can easily copy the original decals you provide and just reverse the colors. Here's what I did: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655201

47-53 Chevy - I'm looking for these two small trim pieces that go at the top and bottom of the center divider bar inside the truck. These pieces are used to cover the gaps of the left and right inside windshield trim where they meet at the divider bar.

Classic Instruments has a couple different ones. Here is one version. http://www.classicinstruments.com/gaugeselector.aspx?ProductCode=VT62SLF&SeriesCode=VT