1952 Chevy 3600 - Project for me and my boy...

Thats awesome! Hopefully he will make that list for ya

 

Zig that is one purdy 228!!! Mine is greasy and oily and dirty...

 

Ding-Dang GMC Guys !

Always bragging and showing off... .

I too like GMC RED but NOT on a Bowtie ! .

 

We know, Paul... gray isn't the same for you fancy G guys!

Damon

 

"LIKE!"

 

yep that 1/2ton axle help will be needed soon since i too scored an 1/2ton axle. so questions. do i/we just use the axle and steerin stuff or do we use the axle and leafs and all? or just the axle?

 

Are you just doing a swap so you have 6 lug? Or modifying it? Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are just doing a swap, I think you will use the axle and steering components. I believe your 3600 pitman arm will still work, and the leafs should work as well (from what I have read). Havent gotten there myself, have only removed all of the components, but I'm sending the 1/2 ton stuff to Sid (hopefully this weekend).

 

Alls ya gots to do is remove the 3/4 axle and bolt on 1/2 ton. Oh, you want to remove the shocks first.
I'm not sure about pitman to drag link problems. My 1/2 to axle came out of a 49 GMC and went into a 52, 3/4 GMC. I believe I put the pitman arm of the 49 on my 3/4 steering box so I wouldn't have any issues with connect the two. (as the drag links were different styles, IIRC.)
The only thing is, I need to check if there was a washer used between the two or what. I also need to get a castle nut that will fit as I happened to "misplace" the one that came off...

 

While you're doing all that work, I'd recommend looking carefully at the king pins to see if they need replaced. If they do, it's not a difficult job... and the kit is a reasonable cost from our host.

Damon

 

And easier to do BEFORE you mount the axle to the truck.

 

all good info guys, thanks. thought it was that easy. id like to send it off to sids but coach is sayin it costed him 900 for everything (drang links and etc) including freight. which isnt bad but im a broke bartender

 

That's exactly why I did it when I did, Bill. I could feel just the slightest amount of play on one side of the truck, I don't remember which, and the other side felt pretty solid. I figured it was best to just tear everything down and rebuild it, so when the truck was assembled, it was basically "new" and ready to go. The king pin job was not complicated, but you would be well-advised to have a spare set of hands and a shop press available when doing this job.

Damon

 

No pictures, as I haven't had much time to work on the truck. BUT I have been looking for rear ends. What I was finding was that junk yards withing 4-5 hours of me were wanting anywhere from $300-$600+ for a S10 4X4 rear end! SOOO... I picked up a 70-81 Camaro 8.5" 10 bolt rear end, complete with sway bar and end links, discs, calipers, and leafs. I think it has 3.55 gears, but will have to check that out to be sure. About 61" from wheel mounting surface of the rotor, to wheel mounting surface. I should have no problem keeping busy in the coming weeks (or months).

 

*like button*

 

Great score! Yup, you should have some fun with that!

 

Bed

Did a little work last night, rear fenders off, and got the bed off. Front bumper is off, still working on getting the front fenders and inner fenders off. Progress!

 

i just lowered mine.. those u-bolts were tough to get off and the treads were rusted away. had to make one inch spacers for the back

 

I loves me a torch and some PB Blaster to get nuts to see it my way. Heat it w-a-y up then hit it with PB Blaster. Heat it again, hit it again, and I bet it decides to come off.

What did you lower, Skeeter? Front or back? How?
And where the hell are the pictures?

 

When I took the front axles out, I started to use the cut off wheel. BUT my air compressor was not up to the task, kept having to stop to let it catch up, so I used the impact instead. Almost every fender bolt broke when taking them off. Ok, ill probably buy a bunch of bolts (bulk), stainless to replace all. Did you keep the 3/4 ton stuff, how did you do the drop in the front?

 

Besides using a torch to heat and/or PB Blaster, you might want to try tightening the nut a tad first and then removal. I highly recommend PB Blaster, however. (and wait time...) Don't tighten too much, otherwise you'll break the bolt off. (This is a GREAT thing for those running board bolts, however.)