Hi all. I have a question that is turing my brain to mush! I have a 1964 Chevy C20... With a power problem. The Radio works, the dome light is barely on, and the dash warning light come on when the key is turned, but thats it. No Headlights, no click from the starter, nothing. The Battery, alternator, and voltage regulator and battery cables are new. Is there a Fusible link somewhere, or maybe another ground is loose? Would the starter soleniod cause this? Any help would be eternally grateful.
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1964 Wiring Issue
- Thread starter MB1964
- Start date
dcsi5919
Member
With your multi-meter, check power at the ignition switch, as well as, the headlight switch. The headlight switch has a rheostat, to provide varied restistance over the lighting circuit, to allow dimming of the dash lights & the dome light. Also, both switches, ground through the dash cluster bezel, so ensure you have adequate grounding at both switches.
drabo
Member
There are a few things it could be. Check for power at ballist resistor. Should be located on the firewall going into the distributor. Also jump out neutral safety switch these will go bad or out of adjustment and leave you stranded. It's on the steering colum near the floor. If it still doesn't start have the starter checked.
Well, here's what I get using my Multimeter set to omhs. ING 5.0, Batt 0.0, SOL 1.0, Ground 10.8 and ACC 21.5. As for the Ballast resistor, there is nothing on the firewall that goes into the distributor, and the shop manual has nothing about it. The neutral Safety swith cuts the dash lights out when I press the pedal, but I have no Idea how to remove it. Its buried within the steering column. Would the Starter keep the headlights an wipers from working? I replaced the voltage regulator but didn't ground it. The Diagram I was using didn't show it being grounded, but I found another one that said it had to be. Could I have shorted it out the first time I tried to start it?
drabo
Member
If I was a betting man I would say you have a short. It shounds like the dash harness. If you don't have it already you need the 1963 shop man plus your year truck supplement. I know I've posted wiring diagrams in the past but can't seem to find them. Also 10 ohms for the neg is not good. Check the connections from the battery to the frame. You might need to replace the battery cables. Instead of off the shelf replacements I used welding cable. It's larger AWG and more flexable. This will reduce resistance which in turn reduces voltage drop.
