49 GMC Progress Report

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by e015475, Jun 20, 2015.

  1. e015475

    e015475 Member

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    Phoenix AZ
    "Just one more time, why is it that the engine is set back like that?"

    Mostly it had to do with the front suspension and engine choice.

    The Jag front suspension is 'rear steer', that is, the rack and pinion is mounted to the back of the cross member.

    The engine can only come so far forward before the oil pan hits the the rack and pinion, so that dictates where the engine goes.

    Many of the LS engine installs, even those with Mustang II suspension had the engine pushed further back into the firewall anyway.

    I'v even seen old valve covers welded into the firewall to clear the V8s cylinder heads.

    So rather than cobble up the inline six firewall, which looks kind of goofy (my opinion only) with a V8 pushed up against it, it was easier to just make a new one

    The LS motor has the air intake pointing forward, not up like a SBC, and I see a lot of air cleaner setups that I don't like, so having the engine back gives me more options for an air filter.
     
  2. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    778
    I showed my wife you’re photo shopped pics of the wide whites she also is a thumbs up
     
  3. RidesWithYah

    RidesWithYah Member

    Joined:
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    Lexington KY
    I am also a supporter of Wide Whites.
    Next time you're at the yard, see if they have a set of original GMC Hubcaps to go with them...

    Thanks for posting the pics from the yard. Looks like a GREAT place to spend an afternoon!
     
  4. e015475

    e015475 Member

    Joined:
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    167
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    This week's progress report...........

    Had some visitors from Texas so might be a little less than usual.

    I finished fiberglassing the fan shroud. There's two layers of 1.5 oz mat on the back now. Made a jig for the router and cut the hole for the fan. Started sanding off the nibs and brush hairs that got in the epoxy. Will take this to Wyatt's next week and skim with a coat of filler in prep for a top coat
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    Here's the back side after I put the two layers of mat on it- I reinforced the corners with a couple layers of mat over the aluminum too.
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    A quick trial fit on the radiator. Still have to figure out how to mount it.
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    Here's the rework of the brackets for the 'custom fit' AC condenser from Vintage Air that didn't fit the GMC - ready for a trial fit in the truck as soon as someone wanders by to help me lift it into the engine bay. I didn't want to make the fussy clip that attached the condenser to the bracket, so I cut the VA ones off and used aircraft rivets to attach them to the new bracket.
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    I mounted the PCM under the dash using some strap and an ebay over-center latch. Sticks out like a sore thumb so I'll have to hit it with some trim black.
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    I strung the wiring harness out on the engine and connected all the senors, then pulled all the excess wire into the cab - what's here is what has to be shortened. It looks like a rat's nest but really isn't so bad. The good news was I won't have to extend any wires in the harness (except for the coils, and I just bought a harness extension that's plug and play)
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    Here's the harness on the topside of the engine. All the injector leads are too long (what is draped over the fenders) and I have to change the plugs to the EV1 style anyway.
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    I ordered some 3" mandrel bends for intake tubing along with some silicone couplers. There's going to be a fight for real estate between the engine and radiator where I need to fit the hoses, fan shroud/fan, and the filter/MAF/ducting. Dang, those bend radii look big.
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    Summit had polished stainless tube for the same price as unpolished, so I bought some for radiator hose. I really should have a back purge of argon when I weld these up, so I'll have to make a jury-rigged system to trap gas in the tube. If my stainless welds look nice, I'll polish them on Wyatt's big wheel polisher, but if not there's always the old-standby of filing them flat and sanding them smooth before polish.
    [​IMG]
    Next week will be getting the intake, radiator hoses and fan shroud to all fit and in mock-up. I'll pull the harness back off the engine and start looming that up too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019
  5. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    778
    Wow nothing less than amazing as always .
     
  6. e015475

    e015475 Member

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    Location:
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    This once-stock engine harness.............
    [​IMG]
    Now looks like this..............
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    Here's a foto of the injectors. The black ICO-flex has a white thread running through it and gives it a vibe like the old cotton yarn covered wiring harnesses- I like the look. I also got rid of the Russell adapter that connected the stock GM fuel connector on the fuel rail to a -6AN and put in a Swagelok fitting. I just don't trust o-rings in fuel fittings, especially ones not from GM
    [​IMG]
    The loom is a woven fire-retardant plastic that is split and easy to apply. It is called ICO-flex and is sold by Aircraft Spruce. Was about $15 to do the whole harness. The ends of the loom are wrapped with a self-sticking silicone tape also sold by Aircraft Spruce. The ebay EV1 injector connectors didn't have any strain relief so I made a 3-step strain relief from shrink wrap tube.

    I spent a couple hours making sure the connectors for the PCM were wired correctly according to the pin-out spreadsheet posted on LT1Swap.com (a great resource if you do your own harness) and checking to make sure all the PCM and sensor grounds were in place. Surprisingly all was good despite the fact I did it sipping a glass of burbon and 7 with Youtube on in background in the shop while I unpinned and repinned most of the harness to get the tangles and extra wires out of it.

    Engine Inlet

    My plans to use 3.5" steel mandrel bends for the air inlet came to naught - not enough room. (embarrassing after that lengthy diatribe to Zig on why my engine sits so far back to make more room) So plan B is a silicone coupler like this one (only they shipped me a 3" instead of a 3.5")-
    [​IMG]

    Will finish up the air inlet this week when the correct coupler arrives. The plan is to turn the air inlet down towards the ground with a 90 degree mandrel bed, then the MAF, then another 90 bend that will put the air filter down low just in front of the dampner pulley. Sounds confusing huh? More pictures when I get it done should make it clear.

    My new fan shroud is ready for Featherfill (didn't need to use any bondo to smooth it. I hate working with bondo and seem to get it all over me and it takes me 3-4 coats to get correct) and Tuesday is paint day if it doesn't rain.

    We'll enough work is done top-side on the truck that it is time to start plumbing brakes, hydraulics, air and fuel. I'm going to start with the brakes. I've never done a double flair and have always used AN 37 degree flares, but this time I'm gonna do the regular automotive brake flare, if for no other reason that if I ever sell it, I don't want to explain why I think the AN flare is just as good as a brake double flare. There's going to be a lot of crawling on the floor to plumb this truck and my 64 year old bones wish I'd sprung for a two-post lift years back (or I'd planned better and got all the plumbing done before I put the body on)

    Next progress installment will be wrapping up the inlet, MAF and filter. I'll mount the air compressor and the fuel swirl/low pressure fuel pump this next week too in preparation for the air and fuel system plumbing.

    La Troca - if you haven't done your swaybar yet for your Jag front end, I think I have a mount design that will work and I'll post some fotos so you can see what you think of it.

    Until next week.............
     
  7. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

    Joined:
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    778
    Thanks Phil not much going on with the truck just been enjoying the wet weather indoors.
     
  8. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    778
    Looking forward to sway bar install and brackets.
    Hope it’s a bracket I can handle making at home.
    Robert
     
  9. e015475

    e015475 Member

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    Location:
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    Robert

    Picked up the steel today so I should have the sway bar brackets fabricated by the end of the week. It is pretty simple - some triangular gussets and some flat strap

    Other stuff.........

    Here's some photos of the LS air intake system I put together today.
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    From the passenger side
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    The assembly on the shop floor.........
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    Painting Featherfill on the fan shroud tomorrow at Wyatt's.
     
  10. e015475

    e015475 Member

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    167
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    OK. Here's my weekly report. Lots of minutia but making slow progress forward.

    The new intake ducting is in and fitting well, just need to weld up some supports for it.

    [​IMG]

    From the other side. The new stretched t-shirt fiberglass fan shroud was shot with polyester primer and then top coated with a satin black. Here it is installed with the new Spal fan.
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    The radiator hoses are made from 304 stainless mandrel bends. Not very happy with the way the top hose looks, but going to weld it up and bead blast it to a satin finish and see if that is a little better. If not, it will be satin black. Here is the bottom one-
    [​IMG]
    The fuel lines to the fuel sender are stainless and I couldn't flare them correctly for a AN fitting, so I cut the bad flares off and put on Swagelok connectors. This is my 'Frankenstein' Camaro fuel sender with a AD truck resistor track to match the AD factory fuel gauge. Ready to start fuel plumbing
    [​IMG]

    Robert/LaTroca - I made the front sway bar brackets out of 3/16" steel plate. Here's a photo of the bracket on the driver's side ready to be match drilled to mount to the frame rail.

    [​IMG]

    The bracket holds the urethane sway bar bushing out from the frame rail about 1.5". Keep in mind that the sway bar rotates in a path that is 90 degrees to the inner fulcrum of the lower control arm, so the urethane bracket will not sit square to the frame bracket - it is off by about 15 degrees.

    Here is the frame bracket tacked together. It is made from two 3x3" triangular gussets and some 2" strap

    [​IMG]
    Here's the part that holds the urethane bushing to the bracket. The top is made from an old steering column that had a 1.25" ID tube that matched the urethane bushing, and the sides are angle iron I cut from an old bed frame.
    [​IMG]
    Just about out of argon, so I won't be able to finish welding them until I get a refill, but this should give you an idea of how you could mount yours. I'll take more photos next week when I have it finished.

    Other stuff.....

    Mounted the pump for the airbag system on the frame rail next to the battery box.

    Checked the camber and caster of the Jag front suspension with no adjustment shims in it. It is good enough to get it to the alignment shop after a few test drives up and down the street.

    Cycled the suspension between the upper and lower stops, and lock-to-lock on the steering to check for tire rub. I found some. At about one inch of travel from the bottom stop at full lock, the tire will rub on the bolt of the fender brace. At normal ride height there's three fat fingers between the tire and the fender at lock. I can live with the limitation at the near bottom of the travel.

    Until next week,

    Phil
     
  11. 50 Chevy LS3

    50 Chevy LS3 Member

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    Location:
    Indiana
    Fantastic work. Thanks for the details.

    Steve.
     

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