If you have a torque tube rear end you will not be able to use it. If yours is open you are good to go. It is a great upgrade.
ive got an open rear so i know im good. but i got to thinkin, what if i throw a s10/blazer rear in and steel wheels and just some how have matchin hub caps with the front end?
If you want to keep the 6 lug stuff, the Colorado is the way to go. If you want to switch to 5 lug ( disc brakes or M2 front) then do the 4x4 rear.
i got a 3600 so 8 lug wheels are the problem. i do have a 1/2 ton front axle layin out back so that might be the next route
That's what I did. (I had 8 lugs once upon a time...) 1/2 ton front with disc brakes and 2"lowered springs with a Colorado 6 lug back end. Can't wait to drive it! BTW, anyone know what u-joint you need for hooking up the new Colorado to the old drive line?
Standard s10 driveshaft and joints on this conversion. Are you still running a stock trans? You need a yoke that fits it, then whatever driveshaft you want to use. Any driveline service can get you what you need easily. I once was an 8 lugger also. I am now 5 on 4 1/2 F##d pattern......Tbird IRS rear and Fatman front. If you have a 1/2 ton front axle, you may want to look into Speedway's disc brake conversion, which puts the fronts on 5x4 3/4....making the s10 4x4 the better choice.
This is the exact path that I chose, but it's gonna be a while before I can attest to any cheers or jeers. Having a matching front and rear bolt pattern was important for my OCD I guess. Damon
The master is one of the first things I would upgrade n ALL of these trucks. Manual setup is fine, I put booster on mine and it didn't relly help. I like Master Power Brakes' set up. It truly bolts right in like they are all supposed to.
If you're gonna use the Speedway kit (or any other kit, for that matter), I urge you to be absolutely certain which caliper brackets come with the kit. I bought kits from two vendors: Speedway first, then our host. The brackets with each kit hit the steering stops bolted to the half-ton axle. I removed the steering stops and turned the king pin lock bolt around 180 degrees. But... it's important to note that I'm adding power steering to my truck and the power steering unit limits travel to the front wheels. If you're not adding power steering to your truck, you need to figure out how to keep the steering stops and modify the caliper brackets so they don't cause interference. Detailed photos of the problem I ran into are posted in my build thread if you want to see references. Good luck, and keep us informed on what you decide to do. Damon
Stops... ...Yes it does...WAAAAYYY better than it used to. The Speedway kit is the way to go IMHO. Damon above this post had issues with the caliper brackets and I did too, but it was a minor inconvenience. Just had to remove the steering stop on the passenger side and all was good. '67-'73 Mustang master cylinder already is set up for front disc, rear drum so no proportioning valve is needed. Combine that with our host's master cylinder conversion bracket and it is a bolt-in deal using the stock pedals. Speedway kit is 5 X 4 3/4" bolt pattern which is the same as the '73 Nova rear I put in it so it all worked for me. Andy
Glad It Helped Russ ; When you installed the Pertronix Ignitor I hope you remembered to open the spark plug gaps up to at least .040" . Thia makes a HUGE improvement .
One other thing, when your on the highway at say 65MPH what RPM is the 235 turning, just guessing? He says 1700@ 60. This a .70 OD, 3:70 rear and 185?/85 16 tire.
Ignitor Catalog Here ya go Skeeter : http://pertronix.com/support/ignitor-kit/default.aspx You have to get the Delco P/N off the tag on the side of the dizzy . Remember to order the kit by voltage and ground orientation , _ALWAYS_ test the coil the kit calls for ! those few who claim failures of Ignitior systems , always use the wrong coil or have voltage spikes . You're going to _LOVE_ the free extra power ! .
