Nate and Gene Autry.... they've both got chains that jingle, jangle jingle..... or is that spurs ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0ac5AVosug
You made me do this I do remember my dad (rest his sole) playing two songs; one is Gene, (skip the add in three seconds) got to be a great classic! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fqe_gJC0lcg and the other was cash playing "I here the train a coming"..... My day was a truck mechanic working on GMC, when there were GMC commercial division, an for him to come home from work a remembering getting a calendar with the big rigs, or even a steel truck demo. Looking to get back to me project.
Additional Pictures and instructions This supports the original stock Cameo pickup gate... My efforts will try to conceal the center handle and steel rods to the latches by some discreet means trying to keep a very stock look minus the chains. Waiting on new (repo) plain steel gate.
Jungle this Guys, I just listened to about sixteen different versions of jingle jangle on the internet, God please let it stop snowing......
Steve, you can turn this into a Cash Tune as you Progress: I Hear those chain's ah rattling on the back of my trucks rear end! i hear the chain's ah rattilng i just have to get Rid of them! Lol
Latch and recess The latch face place will need to be trimmed less the a 1/4 inch to fit in the tailgate side cavity. This cavity could be made deeper to conceal the latch totally. (an option) I was hoping to just increasing the top cavity (where the tailgate is rolled over and tacked welded, keeping the same angle profile to conceal all of the hardware. I do have a smaller center handle ordered vs. the large Chevy one that came with the hardware kit. The latching device to the bed will be higher then the original chain location. I think there should be no concerns there. I also have the bed latch plates ordered. Like a strike plate for smooth operations. The rod will need to be shorten and bent adjusting to the new gate.
Years before the aftermarket hidden latches were offered we used seat belt buckles and a Ford limiter cable. Just trimmed the front edge of the "C" channel on the ends of the stepside tailgate so the limiter cable would be completely hidden when the gate was closed. Worked fine on AD's but anything over 50" wide took a person with a wide wingspan or two people to trip both latches at the same time. It really made the rear of the bed sides much more stable being solidly tied together.
Seen this done Evan. Seen this done looks and works well, does tie the rear bed very tight. Well, I have my new plain steel gate, all hardware and will take some pictures on how I plan on installing the 1988 Chevy tailgate hardware on my 1959 tailgate. One thing about the reproduction gate new metal looks great, make my old truck steel stand out. I think I need a plasma cutter, ..........
Dismantle originial Tailgate (second to last picture)Well there is no turning back now, new tailgate installed to test fit, feels a little lighter the original (must be the one pound of rust on the original). I removed the side pieces of the old tailgate and drilled out the spot wells approximately 20 total. The cut of the original script gate was cut about inch and quarter larger then what is needed so if I need to bend a haft inch lip around the perimeter I can. Hope I can create an outer skin to conceal all the new 1988 hardware.
Steve, Have you thought about putting the latch / cables in the top tube and then boxing around the mechanisms at the ends... or is one of your goals to make the script panel flush with the back of the gate?
Reengineering Looks like its time to rethink this, the latches to fit within the tubs will need to be disassembled,(chop, cut and rebuild) I would like everything to fit in the top tube, that was my first attempt. Widening the sides was considered. as well as placement of the script over the new gate creating a cavity, even winding the top tube was considered. I will, rethink and try to place everything in the top tube. I even was thinking of making the top tube larger less the two inches or so. But now I think I will disassemble the latches and reconfigure to fit within the top tube cavity.
Back to some progress Sit, think and drink, (not in that order) but started back with some spare time so here's what I got so far. The goal is to used the cavity created by the original factory fold at the top. I took apart the 1988 latch and trimmed it to fit the side recess in the side of the tailgate. I cutout for the original tailgate steel hook or (where the chain goes) this provides some additional support and also holds everything together. I will need to drill a 1.3/8 inch hole that the latch pin and latch housing will fit, originally it would have fit within the side recess, just the new latch face plate was to wide. I will weld everything back together. One note the original latch had a flat steel plate to keep the pin form falling out. I need to reinstall this or weld something at the back of the pin and spring to act as a stop. The third picture is a stock latch I started with.
Nice, looks like it's going to work Steve. Questions: Are you going to use counter sunk screws to attach the latch to the tailgate? What's your thought for the handle mechanism?
Supplies Lakeroadster, I plan on using counter sunk screws, so need to weld a nut on the inside of the side recess area. And as for the handle (I notice my took box has a little pushbutton that is keyed and operated two steel rods to allow opening)??? But don't want a bottom or key access, but would be clean install. I do have a slim handle shown in previous post that should work. 6 inches by 1.5 inches. I started welding but emptied my wire, need to do some shopping tomorrow.
You are going to need a considerable amount of linear movement to disengage the latches, looks like about an inch on each end? How about using something similar to what I have sketched below? You would make two of these and they would attached to the end of the latch mechanism inside the tube. You would merely slide the sub-assembly into the tube when you attach the latch, then you would thread the handle into the center bar, through the slot in the tailgate. The slot would be on the inside of the tailgate. You could use a Teflon bushing to prevent rattling. Length of these would be such that you could easily reach both, with your arms outstretched across the tailgate upper tube. Hope that makes sense.
Many Thanks for the detailed pic Lakeroadster, Thanks for taking the time to sketch the information. That's like the mini latches they sell here on this site. I think there hidden latches? I was hoping to used a small one latch handle mounted in the center. I will need to make sure the lateral movement is archived. So the more the handle is lifted the more lateral movement is provided. The picture (previously posted) is what I think is the handle I will used. It's the smallest I could find.
Some progress Nate, thanks for the kind words, I looked at many modified trucks and seen many latched none were a modern type installed on our old truck. so this is where it all started. My welding wire was delivered by BIG Brown, along with some yoga socks for the wife. She get s as excited as I do to see big Brown... I welded up the latch back together, and cut the hole in the tailgate keeping all within the top original cavity. Little more trimming. and will need to weld nuts to hold the latch on the tailgate. It will latch (strike plate) just above the cutout for the original chain and hook.
Steve, What's the function of the piece on the end? Couldn't that be left off and a bolt added as shown below to limit plunger throw? Also, did you ever list the P/N of the latch you used? You've inspired me to add these latches to my truck. John
