It is 0974789F54 It is being used as the VIN on my WI title which I know can be difficult to title in MO when I'm ready--but it is still the original 235 engine.
Sandy, look again to see if there is a letter at the end of the serial number. It should have an "X" at the end if it is a 3100 truck. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/54057.htm Hope this helps. Ken
That helped tremendously. I did leave a letter off. It is a F54 M It says (and correctly) that it is a 3100 with Automatic Transmission.
Hey Nate. Tell me about the brakes, as to whether they should be changed for an upgrade. You have talked me out of the power steering unit--just buy the correct tires and that should work. Now about the brakes?
Bendix Brakes They're very good on your '54 ~ they were used up to the late 1960's so parts are cheap and they're very reliable , have good stopping power with minimal foot effort . You can up grade the master cylinder to a dual system , this involves bending up and flaring some new tubing . Or , ad a vacuum power brake booster & master setup . One thing : resist the urge to turn the drums ~ even when you've run the old shoes to metal , it isn't necessary unless either : A. the brake pedal pulsates noticeably when you're stopping or B . the drums is severely bell mouthed , you'd know this as the shoes wear to one side thinner than the other . I have the benefit of Bendix Factory Training and they were insistent about NOT turning the drums because it causes heat fade . I hope this helps . (you didn't answer my question)
Oh yes, it is a factory installed Hydramatic original. 3100, 5-window cab with the bull-nose grill. Oh the other question is about the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion. Would you recommend it?
Definately. Replace all bulbs, Get an IC64 coil from NAPA, it has the internal resistor. Put a Runtz resistor on the fuel guage, leave the 6 v starter, just don't crank continuously.
6 > 12 Volt Conversion Well ; I guess it depends . If you're going to want a fancy stereo , then _maybe_ . Keeping the truck in a good state of tune , it'll always be an easy starter cold or hot . Lights are marginally brighter on 12 volts , you can run electric windshield wipers too . My truck is 12 volts because the DPO did it , as it works , I don't fool with it much ,I had my fuel gauge re wound by my speedo repair guy and I still run the vacuum wipers , after sending the wiper motor out to Ficken Wiper Service in N.Y. , they work fine . I used to simply run a Voltage Inverter in my 6 volt trucks to get 12 volts for the radio , or I'd dig up an old 6 volt radio , they're not that difficult to find ,I have some old VW Beetle 6 volt radios I'm told are now worth over $100 ? . who knows , you're paying for it so follow your heart . I'm a geezer who likes things simple & reliable and stock always , ALWAYS beats Hot Rods in this respect , yes , I know the kiddies and lazy guys are going to all jump up and crucify me for saying this simple truth but it is so .
Sandy. I wondered about switching to a better brake system but decided to stay with the original. These are trucks built to haul heavy loads with a brake system that can stop a heavy load. You'll never haul a heavy load. I'd go with the original system. jmho. Tony
Stock Vs. Mods You know Russ ; You're one of the very few Hot Rodders I know who actually knows how to build things right but , I'm a geezer who's heard this claim over and over and ..... Still , there's Nate wheezing & rattling through Death Valley , Mexico , Canada , Guatemala and beyond , always in some 95 % stock rig , I always get there in style and comfort , I've yet to meet any Hot Rod that can match me , speed isn't everything . As they say " your pays your monies and you makes your choices " ~ no one is wrong , just different .
As we are getting down to the connection for the 1954 Chevy Hydramatic Transmission we are missing some parts. This is from (1947-54) Factory Assembly Manual R--Control Shaft Lever S--Control Shaft U--Control Rod Q--Control Shaft Lower Support Any suggestions as to finding these parts?