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choke cable
- Thread starter old blue
- Start date
fab51
Member
Chuck-
Just curious, have these been reproduction cables or originals? I broke both reproduction choke and throttle cables. I had to find originals-they don't break as easy as the repros. Then I added an auto choke carb, but that's a different story.
Check under the dash and make sure it is not kinked or bent. Make sure the cable takes the straightest path possible. You can also try to lubricate it with something light that will penetrate through the outer jacket. WD40 would probably be appropriate here. The length might have some to do with it, as the repro cables seem to be made several inches too long. You can try trimming it back. Let us know what happens.
Just curious, have these been reproduction cables or originals? I broke both reproduction choke and throttle cables. I had to find originals-they don't break as easy as the repros. Then I added an auto choke carb, but that's a different story.
Check under the dash and make sure it is not kinked or bent. Make sure the cable takes the straightest path possible. You can also try to lubricate it with something light that will penetrate through the outer jacket. WD40 would probably be appropriate here. The length might have some to do with it, as the repro cables seem to be made several inches too long. You can try trimming it back. Let us know what happens.
We too have been having trouble with the knobs coming right off. CD needs to find a new supplier or climb someones hiney. If you can find an old one and carefully straighten the end where the set screw bends it, spray with Aero Kroil and work until completely free you'll be better off. Also, if you depress the footfeed a 1/2 inch or so before pulling the choke it takes a lot of stress off the cable. We also have been going to car carbs with automatic chokes since alot of our younger customers have no experience with manual chokes. A heat tube can be made out of steel tubing that lays against the exhaust manifold. This seems to open the choke in a timely manner. One last tip, we ground a couple grooves in the part of the shaft that fit in the knob, it's tiny thus tedius, and filled the hole with 2 part epoxy and pushed the shaft back in--so far so good.
You guys are all right on track here , the repop cables are longer to fit the larger trucks too , when you buy a new one , completely remove the center section before trimming the Bowden then install and liberally grease the center wire as you feed it in , leaving the knob pulled 1/4" out is wise and of course , _never_ pull the choke knob unless you've depressed the foot feed , this relieves much strain and drag on the cable .
I've also had very good luck in removing the center in original cables then polishing the rusty spots on the wire untill it's shiny ,
grease and re-install , you'll prolly need to remove the Bowden from the truck to get it all back to-gether , tricky to get the bent up tip of the wire through .
Leaving the Bowden full length makes too much of a bend , causing excessive drag .
-Nate
I've also had very good luck in removing the center in original cables then polishing the rusty spots on the wire untill it's shiny ,
grease and re-install , you'll prolly need to remove the Bowden from the truck to get it all back to-gether , tricky to get the bent up tip of the wire through .
Leaving the Bowden full length makes too much of a bend , causing excessive drag .
-Nate