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Cleaning the frame, or "same old saw"...

Zig

Zig

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So~ Spring break is around the corner and I've got a serious itch to paint on my truck's frame. Might even get to a fender or two.

My question is, what is the best way to get rid of the oil/grease on the frame. Namely the underside of the frame where I'll be laying on my back to do the lion's share of the work...

I have too much stuff laying around for a power washer, so my method will have to be where all that I use will be able to run down my arm and into my arm pit. :p

Any suggestions will be appreciated, as usual!
 
Seems the guys are bit edgy... :confused:

Cleaning the frame is a mess doing it the way you are suggesting. A buddy of mine had a '40 Ford Tudor and started cleaning the frame. He was covered with so much filth that he slept in the garage that evening and then started back at cleaning the frame again next morning.

I'd say just leave it be. You'll likely do more harm than good trying to clean it while the cab, bed and drivetrain are still in place. All that oil-grease-dirt crud is probably doing a better job of protecting the frame than any cleaning and repainting you will do. I say this because unless you prep the cleaned surfaces correctly (80 grit or coarser scratches or media blasting, degreasing, etc.) the new paint you put on won't adhere correctly. Then you will end up with areas that will rust badly because they are bare exposed metal.

So if that doesn't convince you use a 4" angle grinder fitted with a knotted wire wheel to start with (be sure to wear safety goggles, not glasses, a full face shield, long sleeve shirt and gloves), then switch to some 80 grit quick cut sanding discs. You'll have a tough time getting into nooks and cranny's, darn near impossible, that's why most folks media blast.

Hope that helps... good luck!
 
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Zig best of luck. I don't have much advise, as I obviously haven't done that to mine;) But I would guess, just some putty knives, wire brushes, and elbow grease. Maybe some wire brushes connected to a drill?

Good luck, At least the weather should be perfect this week for ya. 80F several days!!!

Get some pics if you can ;)
 
So they say...

Wolf said:
Zig best of luck. I don't have much advise, as I obviously haven't done that to mine;) But I would guess, just some putty knives, wire brushes, and elbow grease. Maybe some wire brushes connected to a drill?

Good luck, At least the weather should be perfect this week for ya. 80F several days!!!

Get some pics if you can ;)
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I'd be willing to bet that there is still time to work in an "Unusually strong cold front that brings artic air and snow" to our neck of the woods, Brian. The 80 degree thing sounds much better, as long as the humidity isn't way up there. (I just bought my daughter a life jacket. She says she really wants to go out with me in the boat to do some fishing. I'd give up truck time for this. We'll see.) :rolleyes:
 
Thanks, Russ!

ol' chebby said:
Paint scrapers for the thick stuff, oven cleaner for the final cleanup. Brake cleaner before painting.
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This is what I was thinking, I just wasn't sure if there was a better choice than oven cleaner.
I'm on it!
 
Cleaning job !

Hey Zig

Work in a gravel pit and use adequat protection. Do not use the putty knives to much , only where thick shit is gethered. They make scratches and rust creeps in later.

This is what i do with my cars , tractors ect.

Start to clean with a hot water pressure machine.
Ad Asfalt cleaner (cold type) or diesel in the spare container of the machine.
Let this stay and work a 15 min. Then clean with hot water and repeat where needed.
If any old paint comes of remove that.
Then have a protecting oil on it . I`ll use Owatrol oil . You can mix it in the tectyle aswell 1 to 10. The oil penetrates very well. Then a tectyle protection layer on the frame and inside fenders. If you have high pressure air tank you can do it at home , but a profesional shop pumps the tectyle inside your frame where posseble aswell !

The old paint and your frame is protected for a lifetime.

Experiences are that this prosess keeps the old USA steel qualety in better shape on the long term then painting. Paint will allways crack in different weather conditions. This tectyle is flexible and wont crack if basic job is done well.

Beware that brake fluid eats the paint like acid fluid and it might be dangerous to work with in that way!
Good luck Martinius.
 
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Just be careful using oven cleaner, diesel fuel or other "chemicals". I once read a post, I believe on the Stovebolt site, where a fellow got into some trouble with his municipality for letting oven cleaner and old grease go down the storm drain. I remember words like "EPA" and "cleanup" being used...:eek:
 
protect your Envirement

I `ll agree with you about the diesel if using to much of it but thats not the meaning . A fine shower is good anough using a garder flower pressure container works well.The asfalt cleaner breaks down in nature so it is not poison neither poluting. Tectyle shops have collector containers where the fluid goes is contained when damping of the old shit.


fab51 said:
Just be careful using oven cleaner, diesel fuel or other "chemicals". I once read a post, I believe on the Stovebolt site, where a fellow got into some trouble with his municipality for letting oven cleaner and old grease go down the storm drain. I remember words like "EPA" and "cleanup" being used...:eek:
Click to expand...
 
This is what I do Zig and it works very well. Go down to (The Walmart) every hick town has one, and buy a gallon of purple cleaner. Don't dilute it down just use it strait out of the container. The best way to put it on is with a siphon sprayer that you hook up to your compressor. Then just spray it on. This stuff will take everything off including the paint right down to the bare metal. Let it soak then wash it off. The best way to wash it off though is with the pressure washer but a garden hose will probably work but you will have to do it a couple of times. If it's just rusty old paint I use a 4" grinder with a pearl disk and it will clean a frame in a couple of hours. For paint go back down to the Walmart and get a quart of Rustolim red primer and a quart of semi gloss black Rustolium (8 bucks a quart) and a quart of mineral spirits. If you thin down the paint a little with mineral spirits it will dry pretty fast, other wise Rustolium stays soft for a long time. tims pics 089.jpg

tims pics 095.jpg The frame on this truck was done this way and it didn't take long at all. The rear was wet from the rain in the first picture but the paint is smooth. The fender wells were painted with Imeron
 
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Thank you everyone!

I must admit, Bill's idea (flip it over) makes the most sense. However, since I still have some oven cleaner and WalMarts (as they say around here...) is right handy, I think I will try whatever it takes along those two lines that Russ and Big Tim have mentioned. My garage has no concrete to get dirty, so that won't be an issue. I just can't go crazy spraying water every which way, so I'll have to give it a sponge bath... ;)

Neat tip on the way to get Rustoleum (which I'm going to use) to dry quicker. That won't hurt it's longevity?

As usaul, thanks for the input everyone!

I'll pay you back with pictures! Unlike brit 50, I mean that! :D
 
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