Neat ! . I applaud you for keeping it stock , a parade truck will outlast you ~ these engines are incredibly tough and hard to kill . The lack of built up gunk in the rockers indicates someone took some sort of care of it, meaning hot oil changes ~ about half the old Farm rigs will be full of taffy in this area , accumulated paraffin from crappy cheap oil that wasn't changed , just topped up . Keep us posted as you go along ! .
Nate, Thanks for the kind words and helpful information. I will keep making post. I really like this site!
In deciphering the Head numbers, then the Block numbers above the starter, I am 99.9% sure it is a 1953 235 engine. Despite the known issues of a Babbit Bearing motor, they are very strong and lasted over 30 years without very many changes. For motor parts, I generally go to RockAuto.com to get whatever they have in stock that is correct. Rock has been very good about getting me the vintage parts I need. Classic goes without saying, and I use them for most everything other than internal engine parts. For what you are planning for it, it will last a lifetime without any issues. Many of those who had the skill to pour Babbit for the Crank and Rod bearings are retired or gone, so finding a skilled babbit machinist may be a challenge, but there are still a few out there I hear. Good luck with your project!
You're welcome . Best bet is to avoid taking it all apart , just clean , lubricate and adjust , even when totally worn out these well desgined engines are dead easy to make run quite well . I grew up working on them and still love them , just beware of over speeding . Lots and lots of really good info in here , take the time to look up older posts about re awakening old engines / rigs , go find Deve's most excellent site , book mark it and refer to it frequently until the care and feeding of a ' Babbit Pounder ' becomes second nature , then enjoy owning/ operating / maintaining what was when new , THE MOST POPULAR TRUCK IN THE WORLD .
Nate, I was planning on only changing out the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Rebuilding the carburetor and cleaning up the motor and painting it. My only brain strain is too keep it a 6 volt system or convert it too a 12 volt system. At the moment I have to replace everything electrical. It is ether missing or in a very poor condition. Thanks,
In Texas, it is not totally necessary to go to 6 volts because of the mild winters, but I would go to 12 volts anyway. The reason is, these vintage generators, regulators are getting more expensive and harder to find repair stations that fix them. Then there is trying to keep the regulator adjusted so it does not over or undercharge the battery. I realize this isn't terribly hard and there are those who love their 6 volt systems, I am just not one of them. So this is what I do (and have done many times)... 1) Get a 42 amp Delco 3 wire Alternator. This replaces the generator and regulator because it has internal regulation. No fuss, just get the proper bracket (from Classic) and install it. Stick with 42 amps because your stock Amp Meter is a 50 amp max Ammeter. 2) Do NOTHING to the Starter.. 6 volt starters work fantastic on 12 volts and actually turn the engine faster and last just as long. 3) Inside the cab there are a few things to do: a) Put a 6.8 volt Zener Diode in the power line going to your Fuel Gauge. The part number is available on my website and for less than a $1 you have that problem solved. b) Get a 12 volt to 6 volt reducer for your Heater System. Classic sells them. c) If you have any other accessories, get another reducer just like the Heater one to power it. 4) Change your light bulbs and Headlights. 5) Put a Ballast Resistor in between the Positive Side of the coil and the Ignition Switch on your firewall. Everything else will work just fine on 12 volts. References for how to do all this and part numbers for everything involved are in a few places on my website.. here is where to go: This one explains how to do the upgrade better than described above: Making Your Vehicle Native 12 Volts! This one is a complete re-wire of a 1953 with 12 volts: AD Truck Wiring Made Easy! No offense to the Keep It Stock guys. Living in Kansas out on the farm, it used to be standard practice to go get the 8v tractor battery to get the truck started in the winter. I am DONE with that. I realize the causes and I know a properly maintained 6 volt system will keep it running, but for a Parade Truck? No way. You do not want to be stuck in a Parade Line and have insufficient power. IMHO
Thanks Deve, I do not have any starter. The person I got the truck from stripped the motor of the generator, starter, water pump, thermostat housing, and who knows what else. I will have to look which one is cheaper, 6v or 12v starter. I think I have a 3 wire GM alternator on one of my shelves. Just got to pay off the money I borrowed to get the truck, then the fun part will begin.
It is not a matter of which starter is cheaper. It is a matter of what flywheel ring gear is installed in your truck. You want to go here before you purchase a starter: 6 Volt vs. 12 Volt Flywheels Explained
It's easy to slightly modify the original generator bracket to use a 12 volt Delcotron alternator . I made a post about it years ago , Lord knows how to find it , I flipped the generator bracket 180 degrees then drilled one new hole , made a spacer and that was it . I used the 32 ampere alternator off an old 1980's Camaro because it's available anywhere in America off the shelf at your FLAPS for under $50 . Follow Deve's instructions closely . If you decide to use the pedal typ starter , no ballast resistor is necessary and can in fact , cause starting troubles . If you have an Ohm Meter , use it across the two little terminals of the ignition coil ~ 1.6 Ohms means your truck is still 6 volts unless you also have a ballast resistor . When looking at old greasy, nasty starter cores , if the Delco tag is still on it , a black tag means six volts , a red tag means 12 volts (even on a Generator) so proceed with caution .
I am also missing an ignition coil. Maybe I should start listing the stuff I do have. I will keep this posting in mind when I start tearing into the truck. Thanks,
Easy - Peasy : When you have the flywheel cover off , mark one tooth and count them all, post how many and someone will know off the top of their heads . Even if it's 6 volts , most any old 6 volt Chevy starter will do , they're very simple to take apart , clean , replace the brushes and grease the bushings then re assemble , expect decades of further service . DO NOT pay much for a 6 volt starter ! they're thrown out almost daily by Hot Rodders who will never use them nor any of the rest of the original drive train .
Thanks Nate Once I get my brothers truck out of my shop I will start turning wrenches on her. I plan on yanking out the motor first.
