Rough cut the cardboard templates, then whittle them down untill they fit like you need them to. Trace the pattern on the steel. Cut them out, finesse with the grinder to a perfect or at least acceptable fit, hold in place and tack weld. Weld solid about 1" at a time to avoid warping. Grind the welds smooth without taking away too much bead.... Now weld the other side. Notice the ends of the plates are curved, like Coilover said, avoid a hard edge so the frame flex isn't concentrated to the same point top and bottom of the frame.
Nice job, Isn't it nice to work off a nice smooth box frame instead of having to weird cut everything to fit on, in, or under a C channel.
I'm impressed with what i've read about Fatman stuff on their website. I like the front ifs with shim alignment rather than the mustang 2 style slotted holes or even the a-arm ends with threads and lock-nuts. Have you done a Fatman four-bar rear? If not please consider that for a upcoming school session. Steve
I'm to far away to bring mine over, ha ha. Anyway it's along way down the road for my project unless I start on the roller while completely rebuilding the lower cab. Bought the COMPLETE floor pan with seat riser along with the other usual patch panels. Probably take me along time to finish with my work schedule. I like the Fatman rear 4-bar cause it looks HEAVY DUTY, capable of holding big HP. Art Morrison's is super duty too, but, with super $ tag. Anyway, I'll be quiet now and watch- Please carry on. Steve.
This question is a little off topic, but I bought a sway bar from our host, and it has no instructions with it... I know where it goes and all, but would like a picture or exploded view to show 'exactly' where all the spacers and washers, etc. go. Anyone have a pic? I may need to call the manufacturer and ask for instructions, but you guys are usually faster and more thorough. Thanks, Bill
Actually, there is a thread not to far back that has to do with sway bars. IIRC, it has a really good photos of just that. If I have time, I'll pull it up for you.
For what it's worth, another option when boxing a frame is to set the boxing plate into the frame and use a groove and fillet weld. This makes the corner joint stronger and ensures you have an adequate weld. Heres a photo of the last frame I built using this method, and a couple details of the geometry.
I have done the frame that way also, but this one I have done to the Fatman sheet instructions, also the way they build theirs. That is a great looking frame. Basically, the plates fit just up to the frame, leaving a channel to fill with weld, then just grinding the top flush with the top of the frame ,then the side flush with the vertical plane, giving a nice square joint.
Technique Welding thick metal plate ! lakeroadster .The welding technique is as much intresting knowing more about then the position of the metal stroke . Did you had a robot to weld this fore you or are you that steady in your hands ? What equipment are you using ? This looks awsome ! I have bought a good welding machine that should handle most materials but is it posseble to weld so beautifull with a TIG combo electrode welder ? Thanks fore sharing , never to old to learn new things. Martinius.
I built the frame on a rotisserie so all the welds were done in the flat position. I tack welded the components with my GMAW (mig) and then had my "welder" friend Don weld the frame using FCAW (flux core). Welds were then ground and skim coated with body filler.
O.K, now mark crossmember center line, put crossmember on a jack and jack into position, make visual adjustments, then get the tape measure. Measure front of frame to crossmember on both sides,... Then measure cross wise to an identical point... Make small adjustments until all measurements are identical, then tack crossmember in. Of course, I got wrapped up in the install and forgot to take pictures, but here is the mockup... Truck sits much lower now. Campy approves. So, anyway, The uprights ( where the upper arms mount) are welded 28" apart, perpendicular to the crossmember. I have previously built a jig with threaded rod at the old shop, but didn't have it now. Take the rod, lock the plates at 28" to the outside, tighten down nuts on the inside and the outside, then all you have to do is get them on the center line. Once lined up, tack in, then the 2 coilover mounts slide into the grooves against the frame. The center of the upper coilover mount is to be set at 36 1/2". Make shure the uprights are vertical and run parallel to the crossmember and tack into place. Now bolt up everything and see where she sits...
Now for the steering column. I posted a how to a few years ago, https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=7908, but here it is again... You can shorten the column to fit you ( or your gut) by loosening the dash mount, then slide the column to where it fits best. Now mark the column about an inch outside of the firewall. Now pull the column out of the truck. Pull the inner shaft out of the column and cut the column tube to size, then insert shaft and cut off about 1 1/2" longer. Now grind the end of the shaft to a "double D" shape to fit into the Borgeson u joint...
Now slip the outer column over the shaft. Put the lower bearing over the shaft and I tack it in. I find that lawn equipment suppliers are the best place to get bearings this size. Ask for your inner and outer spec.s and they should be able to match it up. Now insert the u joint and you are ready to put the column back in the truck... Test fit the engine, mock into place and cut the engine mounts to fit. tack together, pull the engine and final weld and paint....I had to move the driver's side back a litle due to clearance issues.... Install the engine and set her down to see where she sits.... Here is the brake pedal ssembly. Clean off all the grease and dirt.... Here are the parts from Master Power..... All the parts assembled...... Bracket installed, clutch pedal cut off, cleaned... Everything together, ready to go in. You neer about 1/2" spacer between heim joint and brake pedal. Rough cut the pushrod, to be fine tuned once in the truck... And installed...
Steering column Thanks for the update and sharing your pictures. I have a minor question ? How many inches did you cut the inner and outer steering column to make it fit the new connection joint ? Martinius.
I didn't measure how much I cut off. Just push the column down to where the wheel is comfortable, then mark and cut.
Finally, after many painting projects, I am back to it. Make a bracket for the heim joint for the steering rod support. Figure out the hight and position needed, then cut a bracket and weld to frame. The front spindle assembly final. I learned on this one, that if using the GM bolt pattern, replace the races that come in the rotor with the races from the bearings included with the Fatman parts......shold have read the instruction sheet a little closer. Now for the steering column firewall mount. This is what I started with.....an enlarged hole using a torch.... Cut off the lip around the hole and grind smooth... Make a cardboard template to cover the hole... Cut out in metal...love my plasma torch....put the bend in....I used the door frame and door, cut the hole to fit the column.
