Glad o say that I am at the point in my project where I need to attach replacement fender seals, radiator seals etc.(finally ) These are the rubber type used on early 60's chevy trucks that are stapled on to the metal pieces. Any hints on how to do this (don't have heavy duty stapler)?
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fender/radiator seals
- Thread starter 64SWB
- Start date
I would use pop Rivets ...or rather I will use pop rivets..... when I pull off the front clip to do my engine swap one of the fender seals fell off... I saw the staples and just laughed...... how in the world do you STAPLE to metal...... anyway after some thought I figured pop rivets and some type of washer would do just fine
1963 Chevy 4x4 1/2 ton
350/400/NP205/3.73
33X12.5X15 Fun Country
1963 Chevy 4x4 1/2 ton
350/400/NP205/3.73
33X12.5X15 Fun Country
C
Craig
Guest
Originally the factory used a very powerful stapler.If you are going after a perfect 100 points truck then you must staple it on.I usually just get staples and put them in the original holes by hand.But for anything else I would just go them with 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
I also used pop rivits to attach the weather striping to the sheetmetal. I recommend drilling the rubber as well as the sheet metal and using a pop rivit washer to keep the rivit from pulling through the rubber. Works well. Also, use weather striping RTV for an excellent seal.
I know of people saving the old staples, cleaning then plating them and re useing them in the origional holes. This is only for the truly restored truck.
I know of people saving the old staples, cleaning then plating them and re useing them in the origional holes. This is only for the truly restored truck.
I tried the weatherstrip adhesive on the side radiator mounting seals. Works like a champ. Applied thin coat to both surfaces, applied a second thin coat to rubber; put in place and clamped using a paint stick to even the pressure. You would have to really pull hard to get them off now. Do people really save and plate the staples?