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Fenton Split header pipes

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RobY56

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Alright everyone! I have my split Fenton headers for my 56 stepside 235. What are all the specifics I need to gleen from you on pipe size, and the best mufflers to get a low throaty rumble? I also have a bed gas tank. Where are the best places to exit the tail? :cool: :) Also talk to me about carbs, cause I'll be dualing.
 
Multi - Carbys

Although I'm a Rochester Series 'B' guy down to my shoes , you should use Carter YF's made for a 235 ~ they're _fabulous_ and have adjustable metering rods and good design backed up by top grade build quality .

You can read all the details over on the AD pages here , many have done this .

Fentons split the exhaust , this forces a nasty blatting noise and reduces mid range RPM power to boot ~ adding a cross over pipe will increase power and make that deep sound you're looking for . I don't see the need for _any_ mufflers on the softly cammed InLine 6 cylinder engines ~ I've not had a muffler since the early 1970's and never a ticket yet , not even when loaded in Bel Air and Beverly Hills .

For a more Hot Rod sound , look hard for l o n g glass packs , 40" minimum , I assume someone is reproducing Smitty's by now ? .
 
Re:

vwnate1 said:
Although I'm a Rochester Series 'B' guy down to my shoes , you should use Carter YF's made for a 235 ~ they're _fabulous_ and have adjustable metering rods and good design backed up by top grade build quality .

You can read all the details over on the AD pages here , many have done this .

Fentons split the exhaust , this forces a nasty blatting noise and reduces mid range RPM power to boot ~ adding a cross over pipe will increase power and make that deep sound you're looking for . I don't see the need for _any_ mufflers on the softly cammed InLine 6 cylinder engines ~ I've not had a muffler since the early 1970's and never a ticket yet , not even when loaded in Bel Air and Beverly Hills .

For a more Hot Rod sound , look hard for l o n g glass packs , 40" minimum , I assume someone is reproducing Smitty's by now ? .
Click to expand...
I had a 53 Chevy 2 door sedan back in the day. Split cast iron manifold with glass packs. Man that thing was nasty and rattled the windows of every store downtown :D
 
Hotrod rumble

That advice will me the opportunity to do crosspipes and go from there.
Thanx Rodders. :cool:
 
dual carb questions as well

:confused: Hey guys, I would like to pop in here for a little help also. I am not installing dual exhaust (yet) but am trying to get my 235 running right with dual carbs on an offenhauser manifold.

It runs great with either of my carbs installed with the stock manifold. I have adjusted the valves and timing is dead on. Anyway, with the dual setup installed, it's not running very well at all. I'm sure it's too rich. Pulled a plug and observed some soot plus a little bit of black smoke out of the tailpipe. I do have a "Uni-syn" and appear to have the carbs in sync.

So my question would be this: when throwing on an additional carb do you need to "down jet" the carbs? Each carb has a 55 jet in right now. Another question is what about the vacuum advance hose for the distributor? Do you just run it off one of the carbs or do you need to tee off of each carb?

Thanks, Willie
 
willie1956 said:
:confused: Hey guys, I would like to pop in here for a little help also. I am not installing dual exhaust (yet) but am trying to get my 235 running right with dual carbs on an offenhauser manifold.

It runs great with either of my carbs installed with the stock manifold. I have adjusted the valves and timing is dead on. Anyway, with the dual setup installed, it's not running very well at all. I'm sure it's too rich. Pulled a plug and observed some soot plus a little bit of black smoke out of the tailpipe. I do have a "Uni-syn" and appear to have the carbs in sync.

So my question would be this: when throwing on an additional carb do you need to "down jet" the carbs? Each carb has a 55 jet in right now. Another question is what about the vacuum advance hose for the distributor? Do you just run it off one of the carbs or do you need to tee off of each carb?

Thanks, Willie
Click to expand...
Sounds like it's running rich, I would try jetting it down a couple sizes and runnung the vacuum off of 1 carb is fine, the dist. doesn't know the difference just as long as it is ported vacuum and not manifold. With the extra fuel you are gonna want better ignition though. If you put a higher voltage coil with a MSD box and increase the plug gap you will see a huge gain in power even with a stock dist. On my 261 I use an old Mallory "YC" type duel point dist., Mallory coil, MSD 6A box with a remote timing control which is located inside the cab, Splitfire plugs and a set of Accell 8.8 plug wires. The plugs are gaped at .40 ... I run two 350 Hollys with 50cc pumps and it runs just fine. I hope this helps .....Big Tim :cool:
 
Tim, I definately want to do something to increase the spark, I know that would help. As for my carb issues, I will try to find some smaller jets but they seem to be hard to come across anymore. Thanks for the info.
 
willie1956 said:
Tim, I definately want to do something to increase the spark, I know that would help. As for my carb issues, I will try to find some smaller jets but they seem to be hard to come across anymore. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Here's what you can do with the jets, I did this on some old AFB's and it worked well. I took a cheep soldering iron, the kind you get at Wallmart that you plug in and is on all the time with a point on the end of it and soldered them up and re drilled them to suit my needs. First you take the soldering iron and put it in a vise with the point facing up. then before you try to solder the hole in the jet take a drill bit the same size or smaller and by hand run it in and out through the hole to make sure you clean the inside of the jet so the solder will stick.Then you hold the jet with a small pair of needle nose pliers right on the point for about 30 seconds then push the solder in to the hole. When you take the jet away from the soldering iron the solder will smooth right in. You can use some sand paper and by hand run the jet over the sand paper and make sure it is smooth. Then use the numbered drill bits and re drill to size. if you have a #55 jet then that's the same as a # 55 drill bit Numbered drill bits are measured in thousandths. The great thing about this is you can do it over and over. I hope this helps....Big Tim :cool:
 
Remember Too :

That both floats must be identical and have the *precise* same height adjustment , it is permissable to lower the floats a bit to make it run leaner .

FWIW , Goddamit Tim's advice about soldering up then drilling out , main jets , is sound ~ been doing that for years & years .
 
Fwiw

Found my problem.:)
When you're trying to set up dual carbs, make sure there is no blockage in the fuel line! It wasn't me but the guy I bought the engine from. He could never get it to run right with duals so he blocked the fuel line (I now know in two places) and put a plate under the rear carb.

Anyway, I've got it running good now.

Thanks for the input and I apologize for hijacking this thread.
 
Hi there. Was reading your posts on the duel carb setup. I saw them talking about your ignition. I wanted to tell you what I did with my points distributer. I installed a protronics points eleminator kit. It removed the points and installed a flamthrower coil. Now it works like a champ and I got the same distributer. If you want part numbers let me know. Enjoy



Check it out here, only a few pics but I got more.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364051/1959-chevrolet-apache/page-5
 
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