Front hood lower panel replacement

[davidrw]

Hi Guys

I decided to replace the front hood lower panel of my '65 C10, as the corners had been repaired in the past with filler (I think you call it bondo)and had started to crack and flake. So I imported a panel from our host, last picture below.

Has anyone had experience of replacing one of these? What is involved in & how is the old panel removed and how is the new one installed?

As always your experience and knowledge is greatly appreciated from this side of the Pond.

Also I thought I'd share pictures of my new ride that has just arrived from Rome NY. It is a '76 C10 Scotsdale fleetside shortbed. Running a 454ci with a mild cam & HEI, turbo 400. As you can see it is a mild hot rod (VWNate won't like this!! ) with an airbag suspension system, electronic door opening (hopefully won't be a problem) and shaved rain channels. It was built by a guy who has been building cars for the past 35 years.

 

[Rich 5150 69]

Hi David, you must have rusted out corners just above the rubber bumpers...? I have the same, I picked up a donor hood bent in the center but the valance was good... you`ll need a spot weld cutter, and a four inch grinder to get your hood apart, slow process as its tight quarters. Note when installing this there are two weep holes on either side of the hood which need to be left open, this is why your original rusted out...you`ll need to lightly sand the bottom edge of the hood to reveal the spot welds to get started. If you don`t want to buy a spot weld cutter, use a small 1/8 bit first, center it in th weld, then go back with a 3/8 bit, just deep enough to cut the weld...

 

[Rich 5150 69]

My donor hood I just cut above the valance, if you need better pics Dave let me know..

 

[davidrw]

Hi Rich

Thank you for your reply. Yes more pictures would be very helpful please.

 

[Rich 5150 69]

Across the bottom of the front edge of the hood there are approximately 34 spot welds, use sandpaper to reveal the center, use a center punch and put a dimple in them, use a small 1/8 drill bit, run a hole all the way thru, then come back with a 3/8 drill bit and just drill thru far enough to cut the spot weld, when all are cut from side seam to seam.
use a sawzall and cut thru the upper part of the valance just below the seam, using caution in the center as there is a bracket for the hood latch that is spot welded in to the air dam on the inside, you`ll have to maybe even use a cut off wheel on a four inch grinder would be easier. On each side seam you will have a small notch and tang that is folded over to alaign the two pieces at the factory, not sure if you want to preserve that or not, once you have the valance cut apart from the hood you`ll have to go back and gently grind thru the spot welds on the remainder of the valance and not damage the main pat of the hood..The thing to remember is contain all the damage to the valance, preserve the hood and airdam / brace. Actually thinking a little more about this you can use the four inch grinder for just about all of this, sense we are not con cerned with your valance use the grinder on all the lower spot welds just be carefull not to grind into the airdam/brace to deep.

 

[Rich 5150 69]

My hood as I work each spot weld, cutting cross slots thru the junk remaining metal to get clearance for the four inch grinder to slowly grind the spot welds away from the donor valance, when I cut mine loose from my hood I will do the same, cut thru the valance with a four inch grinder cut off wheel, theen go back and cut the spots loose with the grinder, when done cleaning up the rust, clamp and weld with mig welder back into the same approx areas. Mine will be a little less work as my donor will have the airdam/brace already attached where you will have to remove yours attach to valance the attach all to hood.

 

[vwnate1]

Hood Repair & New Rig

David ;

I suggest you pop the $ for a good quality spot weld drill bit as pictured above , you have to use it to understand , you will understand if you ruin the hood trying to $ave a bit of Lolly .

Rich's advice here is spot on , work slowly and carefully , you'll be well pleased with the end result .

As far as your new toy , it's hard not to like the Square Body trucks , I used to own one remember ? .

That one looks nice and straight , removing the rain gutters anywhere it ever rains is foolish beyond belief but you'll soon figure that out .

I'd love to have a nice short bed stepper Square Body but they're BIG suckers so I'l keep my weeny little '69 C/10 Stepper , work the living crap out of it until I die I guess .

Remember : YOU'RE paying for it so it matters not a whit what I nor anyone else thinks .

if you can afford to feed that romping , stomping 454 C.I. beastly V-ate , good on ya ! .

I really wish some of you alls would join me om the Road Rallies I go on , my old clapped out 250 CID I6 works very hard and I almost never see anyone else keeping up with me in the fun bits ~ only on those boring straight aways , then everyone roars past me easily .