Gas gauge sender

[tkconlon]

Hi guys,

I just fixed a problem with my gas gauge sending unit which I thought might save someone the price of a new unit. My gauge was very bouncy and gave inaccurate readings.

When I removed the sending unit from the tank, I carefully removed the cover from the potentiometer. First I cleaned the fine wire pot where the wiper makes contact using a pencil eraser (go lightly). Here is the key point: There is a copper colored spring which makes the ground connection from the potentiometer to the body of the sending unit. Clean the ends of this spring and the places where it makes contact with the body using fine sandpaper or Scotchbrite. Replace the cover of the potentiometer and crimp the cover in place. Should work like new. While you're in there check that the float is not filled with gas. Replace it if necessary.

Don't be cheap - buy a new gasket to seal the sending unit to the tank. It's only a buck!

Tom in Steamboat
'60 Short Fleetside

 

[trustyrusty65]

Tom, it sure sounds like you know what you're doing! I sure wish that I could figure out stuff like that. I ran out of gas in my neighbor's driveway after I hauled his new motor back from the machine shop for him(he builds Cars-not trucks). I recently rewired my entire truck with a chevy duty kit, but I didn't touch the gas sender-as I plan to put a tank out under the bed sometime soon: I wanted to leave the gas sender wire full length. I figure that I can just splice into that wire for now and wire my sender. With your advice I think I'll check out the sender first. Good piece of advice!
--TrustyRusty

 

[tkconlon]

Hey TR,

Glad to be of help. The wire length (within reason) shouldn't matter since there is a series resistor already in the circuit on the back of the fuel gauge. Let me know if I can advise further.

Tom in Steamboat
'60 Short Fleetside