I have similar problems I have similar problems with my 216 6V. keep fighting with the leaking boiling over B carb as well. have a cater W1on order going to try it. The battery cables and hot valve adjust seem like good advice going to give it a try. I have a stupid question though.. what are you talking about when you refur to "heat riser"
Heat Riser Mot under the carby in the exhaust manifold youll see a balance weight in front and a coil spring in the rear they are connected by a rod or hinge that goes through the manifold and inside it hasa door or valve which opens and closes to assist heating teh incoming fuel air charge when the engine is cold by directing exhaust gases through the intake manifold as the engine warms up this valve moves (rotates counterclockwise looking from the front) and then sends the exhaust gases out of the exhaust manifold on a "normal" path The spring on the back of the manifold is a imetallic thingy that turns the valve as it relaxes from being heated by the exhaust that about sums it up if ths does not move freely as stated by Nate then the gases will continuously heat the incoming fuel air charge and basically the fuel air charge will be wrong and it will not want to start hot
Heat Risor Like the man said ! . Be aware it's delicate so be gentle when you're trying to turn it to see iff'n it works , once you've twisted off the shaft you're sunk . use penetrant to get it loose and then squirt graphite in to keep it moveable . Be aware that tight valves (they are now unless you personally adjusted them) will cause wretchedly hard hot starting... I learned this is as a yoot the hard way . Lastly , there are NO ' stupid questions ' ! no one here is better/smarter than you are so ask away , once you get this sorted out you'll understand why Chevy is the most popular truck in the world . Carry on then .
