How to assemble an AD

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by ol' chebby, Dec 10, 2008.

  1. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Oops :

    :eek: I neglected to mention that because there's no fiber rubbing block to wear , the ignition timing remains nearly *perfect* forever....

    :D

    You still should check it once a year or so but your power band won't soften as the points gap closes and causes the timing to retard 3° for every .001" reduction in points gap like the stock system does .

    There .

    All set on how & why ? .

    :rolleyes:
     
  2. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    I thought the monthly cranking of the grease cap handled all that lube duty.
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Dizzy Lubrication

    Nope ! that lubes the shaft bushings ~ the felt oiler underneath the rotor button , lubricates the advance flyweights and breaker plate .

    Both are very important .
     
  4. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Promotion

    Nate, I hope the Pertronix guys are looking in, after a sales pitch like yours i think they owe you a free set up for your truck;)
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    As I Said :

    There is NO ' downside ' .

    Heck , even GMC's will benefit from the installation of this product . (they'll still be FUGLY of course) :rolleyes: .
     
  6. Bilbo

    Bilbo Member

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    Once again, you guys have enlightened me about a subject I need to know about. Especially Nate, again. Great information. I'm taking notes, (so I can come back to this thread when I need the info again). BTW, what's the comment about the greasing of the Dist. bushing refer to? Not familiar with that one, either.
     
  7. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Went for a long drive today, Fuel gauge isn't working again, and it tends to run hot. I may have to flush the radiator again. The gears are a bit loud, so there may be some new bearings in the near future. It drove great and got lots of thumbs up from everyone.
     
  8. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Coolant Temps & Gear Whine

    Please look up my post on " Citric Acid Flush " and try it before doing anything else , DO NOT skip the de-greasing step or it won't work ! .

    You might try drilling _one_ 3/16" hole in the thermostat's flange , this works as a steam release and also prevent air locking .

    If you cannot find my old post , I'll re-post it but it might take me a few days .
    Remember : these trannies are supposed to whine a bit , the trannies are dead simple to overhaul and one the bearings are replaced and the cluster gear is correctly shimmed , it can make a serious bunch of whining & howling and not be bad .

    I cannot overstress how important it is to install a 1/2" NPT magnetic drain plug & to check & re check the gear oil's level in the tranny .
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Dizzy Bushing Lube

    On the left rear side of the distributor should be a 3/4" (ish) round cap , it's supposed to be full of bearing grease and you give it a 1/4 turn clockwise once a month to force a tiny bit of grease into the lower shaft bushings .

    Some later model dizzy's have a sheet metal oiler you pull open and dribble in a few drops of engine oil .

    I hope this helped .
     
  10. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Nate's mystical magical citric acid formula......

    As far as simple radiator and cooling system cleaning , there's a whole deal you must do by the numbers else it won't work but , Citric Acid Powder does the trick , about three pounds of it mixed in distilled water then drive it an hour or so , drain and be amazed at how much black crud somes out .

    First thing though , you must flush the cooling system untill it's clean then run some non sudsing detergent in it for a day (Think 'SHOUT' etc.) and then rinse that all out , I stupidly tried to cheat and I used liquid Tide , boy howdy ! it took me a week of flushing several times a day to get all the suds out of the water jacket...

    I put the Citric Acid Powder in my radiator and then I drove it to work and let it sit all day , the amount of crud that came out the drain cock was incredible and I had to drain & re-fill it a dozen times before it'd stay clean driving it for over 30 minutes on the open road....

    also on this thread....
    https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=6910&highlight=citric+acid+flush
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2010
  11. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    The new **^^^%*%&%%#@# temp guage is doing the same thing! It will rest just below the 180 mark, even when filling with cold water from the hose after a good flush. It reads 220-240 pretty quickly.
     
  12. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Mine hits the 220 mark pretty quick, also.
    When doing this flush, I guess it would be good to do it without the thermostat so all the crap can get by?
    I'd check the original thread on this, but my dang computer is running so slow it's not funny!
     
  13. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    run your virus check and clean out the history of your surfing, etc., control panel, to internet options to browsing history to delete and then make sure all your pass words are written down, to yes all, see if that helps some.
     
  14. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Where might I find such mythical citric acid powder? Everyone I have asked looked at me as if I were a looney......or maybe I did.
     
  15. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Cooling System Cleaning

    NO ! . it will work better (with any cleaning agent) if you run it up to temperature .

    I bought my Citric Acuid Powder from a baking supply place in San Bernadino , candy making suppliers also sell it , Flea-Bay etc.

    Some candy & baking supply places call it " Sour Salt " .

    I hope this helps , it really does work well .
     
  16. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Well...

    Asking for sour salt DOES sound a bit better than asking for acid. :rolleyes:

    Thanks, Nate! I just thought that the crap might lodge in and around the thermostat. I surely don't mind leaving things alone, but with the heating problem I seem to be having, and the fact I let the it set for @ 4 years, and the amount of crusty, scaly stuff I found inside the water pump, I figured this treatment sure wouldn't hurt!
     
  17. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Just for you, Zig(and the rest of you whos' trucks aren't on the road yet) so you won't have to sit there and make engine sounds anymore....

    (video)
    th_DSCN8150.jpg

    Put it on a big screen in front of your truck.

    And a few shots of the undercarriage...
    DSCN8152.jpg

    DSCN8151.jpg

    I greased everything, tightened all nuts and bolts, tightened the rear brakes, checked fluid levels and inspected everything underneath.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 18, 2010
  18. Greg_H

    Greg_H Member

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    A little off topic but I like the 68 Charger in front of the last picture.
     
  19. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    I love the sign above the door!


    Greg
     
  20. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    You'll love the rest of the shop. I'll try to get pictures.
     

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