How to assemble an AD

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by ol' chebby, Dec 10, 2008.

  1. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Worked on the windsheild today......much swearing was involved, then the passenger side cracked. I have never had this much problem with a windsheild before. I'll get one on order and start over.
     
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  2. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Dude, I feel your pain!

    Who do you order your glass from? Good quality glass is hard to come by. Thickness can be an issue when trying to fit glass. Corners that are one-gazillionith of an inch too big can be an issue. Poor quality rubber can screw up an installation. I know, I know, I'm preaching to the choir here. Russ, I admire your work. We, as enthusiasts, hobbyists, professionals (not me, but some) need to have a "gold" standard of parts and/or parts suppliers for these parts. There is such a lack of artisans any more that it almost makes one sick! The glass in my truck was pristeen, after polishing, but most of our trucks start off with either broken glass, missing glass or so neglected glass, that it needs to be trashed to begin with. We need to know who can deliver the goods.

    I rant, I rave, but, on occasion, I make a point!

    Ken
     
  3. Zig

    Zig Member

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    We appreciate your efforts!

    I don't mean to speak for others, but really~ The photos that you've posted and the comments and instructions have been priceless! (Especially for us visual learners!)
    You also give us hope. Like so many things that needs to be done (or redone) on these trucks, the windshield is just one more thing that I'll need to do, and your pictures will help me get 'er done!
    Sorry things didn't work out the first time, but I'm sure it will the next.
    Good luck, and thanks again!
    Paul
     
  4. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Trail Blazer

    Russ,

    I too am waiting for you to blaze the path, so I can install my windshield. It occurred to me that the hardest part would be holding on to the glass.

    I picked up this tool online for only about $20. Of course, the shipping and handling was around $12.

    Do you think this tool will help in the installation?


    Greg

    BTW, the glass in the photo is the old broken side window.
     

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  5. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    The glass really isn't hard to hold on to, once you get it in the rubber. Ack is coming today for a convention tomorow. He may stay and help me give 'er another go on Saturday morning. I have a steele gasket coming today along with another glass.

    Installing one without the stainless is a breeze, but of course mine has the stainless.......
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Glass Installation

    The stainless shouldn't make it any harder....

    I find my stiff nylon stick is equally important as having the correct diameter cord , of late I use plastic covered wire from the shop as it slips out easier as you're drawing it out (and the glass in) .

    The angle of pull makes alot of differance too , you can change it as needs be for that particular bit of grommet .

    I'm sure you know the proper drill : glass into rubber , trim into rubber , cord into rubber , install assembled glass into the body..
     
  7. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    After much more swearing and gnshing of teeth, the windsheild is in. This has been by far the worst windsheild experience for me. The Steele rubber is a great product. the only thing I see is that it needs a little more rubber on the outside lip to seal against the body. It has ribs that go inside the window opening that should seal much better.

    Here goes.....
    Lay out the rubber, and install the trim in the little groove. Use lots of Windex here.
    DSCN6919.jpg

    Now work in the glass...lay the whole assembly on the hood on a blanket.

    DSCN6921.jpg

    Take time to pet the shop dog, Crickett.
    DSCN6920.jpg

    Feed rope around the groove, leaving enough to leed out the ends. I like a thicker rope, it doesn't cut into the rubber.
    DSCN6922.jpg

    Now set the whole thing up against the frame, lining up the center bar and the bottom lip should rest on the pinch mold.
    DSCN6923.jpg

    Begin in the center on the bottom and pull the rope to draw the rubber over the pinch. Pull at different angles, generally perpendicular to the rubber.
    DSCN6924.jpg

    DSCN6925.jpg

    After more pounding and colorful language, the glass wouldn't go in on the passenger side....the new glass, imagine that. I pulled it out and compared it to the origional broken glass, and found the cause. It is too big. I traced out the difference on the glass.
    DSCN6926.jpg

    Now make several straight cuts to make the curve using a cheapo glass cutter, then turn pane over and cut on the EXACT line on the underside.
    DSCN6927.jpg

    I used a set of adjustable pliers to grab and snap in small increments until both sides are broken all the way around. WEAR GOGGLES....this stuff flies.
    DSCN6928.jpg
     
  8. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Some say that you can squirt alcohol into the crack and light it to burn the plastic middle, I just used a razor blade. Cut the plastic and remove the leftovers. I highly reccommend shop vacing the whole area after this.
    DSCN6929.jpg

    It looks rough, but you can sand into shape with a belt sander. Go slow with light pressure so no heat or vibrations break your glass.

    Now reassemble in the rubber and start over. I found that the center section need a little influencing to get centered. I used a phillips head screwdriver through the center bar metal to pry to the center. If the trim pops out of the rubber, swear at it and gently influence it back in, I used a dead blow hammer in small increments, also more windex....everywhere. I'll end up sealing behind the rubber with some window setting urethane to make shure no leaks.

    This is a little easier with a helper to press the glass in for you, but my neighbors go running when my garage door is open, guess I abused them too much for heavy lifting in the past.

    Thank god it is finished.
    DSCN6930.jpg

    I assembled the front bumper with splash pan and fog lights.
    DSCN6931.jpg

    The bracket goes against the bumper, then the pan goes against that.
    DSCN6933.jpg

    Bolt brackets through frame here. Hold it up, line up one bolt, then repeat on the other side. Next put in the back bolts.
    DSCN6932.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2009
  9. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Congratulations, Russ!

    So, what you're trying to say is, you wouldn't want to do this for a living?:rolleyes:
    Great photos with explanations again!
    I'm happy for you, and now I'm looking forward to doing the same to my ride. (I love to swear and throw things!:p)
    Would STP or Armorall lubricant maybe help things slide together a bit easier, or does Windex work just fine as far as that goes?
    Thanks, Russ! You da man!:cool:
     
  10. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    I use a water based lube so that you don't have to contend with oils later if you need to seal it. Plus, Windex cleans as it lubes!
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2009
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Glass Install

    I like a much thinner cord , flexible , plastic covered wire is great as it slips easily instead of ripping the inner lip off the rubber grommet .

    next time don't pull the cord paralell to the glass , pull it at 90° and then closer in to the glas as needed , you'll find it works better .

    Never , _EVER_ use armorall as it ROTS RUBBER .

    No flat washers under the bumper bolts & nuts ? .

    I envy how nice your truck looks .
     
  12. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Spent the day stripping/ cleaning the rear bumper brackets, then painting them. Then moved to the door windows. The driver's side needed to be re attatched to the regulator frame. Used the urethane, left it rolled up overnight, no problem. The passenger window......LOTS more colorful language. The window was extremely tight, so I removed it and tried to re install it. I cleaned the regulator out and lubed the hell out of it, but it still has a skip and a grinding noise. The old glass had a chip in the top front corner, so I smoothed it out with a grinder and sanding disc. The glass would not line up with the vent window frame at all, then broke when I almost had it. I took a trip to Dave's Truck Parts in Clairmont, NC for a new glass, only to discover that he only had green and tinted glass. DAMN. I bought a new regulator while there, and he is shipping a new one to me from someone else on Monday. I have never had so many glass issues as with this truck. AHH, well, thats mechanicing on old trucks......
     
  13. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    WIndow glass didn't come in today, so I worked on the interior. I installed the Old Air A/C unit, and the dash stainless,
    DSCN6942.jpg

    The hidden unit looks good , with very little visible..Here is the unit.
    DSCN6943.jpg

    and all you see under the dash...
    DSCN6945.jpg

    This is the engine side...
    DSCN6944.jpg

    The wood side panels that dave made...
    DSCN6946.jpg
    DSCN6947.jpg

    Got the rear bumper installed.
    DSCN6948.jpg
     
  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Vintage Air

    Did you loose the glovebox ? .

    That unit looks cleverly designed .
     
  15. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    It fits very well, I have instlled 3 of them, and I reccommend them. it is the hidden system from Old Air, through Jim Carter.
     
  16. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Russ, I LOVE the wood rails! That truck will be so sweet when your done! (Which doesn't look like you have that far to go to get her there...)
     
  17. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    DAvidack4 is looking to start selling them. They are very nicely made. He is working out the logistics now.
     
  18. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Ad ac

    Good deal ~ now all I needs do is work up a mounting bracket for a good Sankyo compressor......
     
  19. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    They have those too. They use Alan Grove Brackets. So far, they all fit nicely like they are supposed to .
     
  20. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Finally got the passenger side window in. First you must install the regulator in the door. Roll it all the way up. Now slide the window in the door from the top, engaging the regulator in the bottom track...
    DSCN6961.jpg

    Noe roll the regulator down all the way and slide the vent window assembly in. I find that you need to slide an arm in the bottom access hole in the door to manipulate the window into the felt window track of the vent assembly. Once they are aligned, bolt the frame in with these 2 bolts at the top of the door...
    DSCN6962.jpg

    Next the 3 small screws at the front of the vent frame...
    DSCN6964.jpg

    Now work the window up and down a few times and then install the garnish moldings. If you are adapting stainless, you will have to trim around the lower screws so that it will sit correctly. Don't forget the locating bolt at the very bottom of the vent frame.....It is a P.I.T.A!
    DSCN6965.jpg
     

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