And WooHoo! the window is in! I have installed the step plate. It should go exactly where it needs to, just look at where you step on the running boards, and put it there. Drill the holes, then use stainless screws. I reinstalled the splash aprons also..
Russ, Do you have any detail photos of the door glass channel installation? The part that glues into the vent window frame is easy to figure out, but what about the one in the channel guide? How far up into the door does it go? ... again, no help in the Assembly Manual. Greg
Start at the vent window frame and work your way back and down into the door. There is plenty of room to loose any excess down inside the door. Don't Glue the upper track first, as it will need to be loose when you install the vent window. When making the curve at the top corner, use something to sit inside the felt to keep it from collapsing when you bend it.
Windsheild trim.....Lines up with these holes. Start with one hole on bottom, one on the side and one on the top. This will hold every thing still. Don't tighten all the way so that you can line up other holes if need be. Center strip causes my tourette's to act up. Insert middle screw through inside trim. Don't forget to put the clips top and bottom that cover the ends of the windsheild molding. Insert through the rubber center. From outside line up the stainless with at least one screw, I find the top works best. Gently start the screw from inside. Don't forget to install the mirror bracket on the second hole from the top. Line up the remaining screws, then tighten down. Found rustoleum bronze spray paint that is pretty darn close to the sheen grey metallic interior. For those of you who want the cheaper way out. When gluing on the anti rattle strips in the windows, put on the adhesive then brace against the window with a few pieces of cardboard and let it sit. They were origionally put on with staples, but I find that the holes never line up and drilling stainless with that small a bit is hopeless.
Great job, Russ! That is one sweet looking truck! You're getting closer and closer to getting done with that so you can start on the GMC!
The engine is now at the machine shop, so lets work on the truck a little more. Headliner.....the dreaded task. 2 people are really needed, though I did it by myself and took pictures. Start by loosening all the screws in the top and sides of the windshield trim. Slide the front piece under trim, center it up. I found it neccessary to trim the cardboard that travels down the A pillar. Now insert the center bow. It can also be installed on the rear half, where Chevy would have crimped it. I couldn't get it to stay, so I did it seperately. The front goes into the higher channel, the rear the lower. It makes sense when you look at it. Line it up with the windlace retainer on both sides. Earlier models had screws in this piece. Slide rear half into center bow channel, center up and force as far in as possible. Trim the rear as needed. Install rear screw strip. I had a fitment issue with the rear corners, the same as I had with my truck. I have a replacement from Bebop's Repops that I will try and see if it is any better.
Now for the windlace. Not fun. 2 would be helpful on this also. The book says to slide through the center over the door first, but that wasn't happening, not to mention that you have to slide twice as much through there as neccessary. It fits into this channel... I started it in the front pillar first. Feed it in slowly, it likes to jump out of the channel. Use lots of oil or it will not happen. The first half is easy, then friction and curves begin to fight you. Pull it all the way down to the floor, and then some to trim later. Pull the rear the same way. For the center, I used a flathead screwdriver to work the rubber into the channel. Much swearing was involved. Lower door cab strip. Hook the lip of the rubber over the door sill and trim ends to fit. This is the rear. I trim so that there is a little overlap, but everything should fit like a puzzle. Repeat for front. Now install metal strip. It just catches the edge of the rubber and pinches it against the corner. Nice shiny new rubber floor mat. Lay it out and make shure that the punch out holes will line up with the pedals, etc, then cut them out with a very sharp blade, then lay/stretch it in. I "V" cut the toeboard corner and left a little extra mat to help control water or whatever from splashing up on the kick panel.
Great stuff! Russ, I realy appreciate all you have done for us visual people! I see what you're doing and think about how stoked I'll be when I get to these items!
Side window Channel Russ, I got distracted for a while, but I am back on track now. I read your instructions on installing the side window, but I am still confused about the channel. There is a clip at the end of the lock side window channel, so if I start at the vent window end the excess will not fit into this clip. Do I trim the channel flush with the vent window? or do I try to cut the two channels at 45° angles? Since you need to install the side window in first, do you just dry-fit the vent window and mark the location to trim the channel? or do I glue the channel in with the vent window in place, remove the vent window, then install the side window? I assume it is all glued in with weatherstripping glue? As always, thanks for your help. Greg
There is a seperate felt channel that goes into the vent frame. It comes with the kit. The window channel for the rest of the door butts up to the vent frame at the top. then follows the window back and down.
by the way just a BIG thank you for taking the time and effort to document this for us visual guys.It takes a lot of time just to do the work, but to take all these pictures and explain it in such a simple way that anybody can understand takes so much time. So thanks!!! and the guys that don't need to see this im sure its nice to just look at quality professional work!!! THANKS AGAIN. I am getting ready to put in my headliner, and this is perfect!!!
Machine shop says the engine is spec.ing at .80 over before cleanup....can sleeve it for around $250. I'm gonna check out the other one at B.J.'s this weekend.
Side window Channel...again I am finally getting around to the side window installation. After re-reading the Shop Manual, it looks like in the '51 the window channel is only held in place by the clip at the end of the channel guide on the lock side and one screw near the vent window. See drawing (location D). I have been trying to think of a way to put this screw in so the glass does not hit it when fully closed. The only thing I could come up with was to cut a section of the felt away, drill a small hole, install a screw with a head as flat as possible, then glue a piece of felt over the head of the screw. Does anyone know of a better way? Greg
I don't know of a screw in that place, I've never seen it. I just glue the whole track in with weatherstripping adhesive. Don't glue in until you have installed the vent frame, as it will have to move to pt the frame in.
Pane in the Glass!! This is without a doubt the least fun I have had with my truck restoration. Every aspect of glass installation has been a PITA! The rear and corners were just difficult. The vent was a little crafty, but the side window is just poor design. That is the first time I have said that about the AD trucks. Usually, GM had an elegantly simple design. The side window is just pure bill shut! It starts with the one-point regulator contact. This allows the glass to pivot freely. I already cracked one piece of glass when I was rolling the window up. It pivoted and hit the regulator. Instant garbage! When you roll the regulator all the way down it makes the glass kick out at the bottom so it is no longer parallel to the vent channel. The angle at which you have to insert the vent window assembly is so limited because the vent channel has to be between the window glass and the regulator crank. You also have to tilt the vent window so the bottom of the channel points toward the outside of the door. That means both alignment axes of the glass and the vent channel are not parallel. It is so easy to break or chip the corner of the glass. I was wondering if it would be possible to take the vent channel felt out, then assemble the window and insert the felt later? The Shop Manual just glosses over the details. It's Friday and time for a beer... maybe two... or three... Greg
The problem is that the felt fits pretty snug, with the glass in the chanel, I don't know if you will be able to get the felt in.
Door Works FWIW , even Journeyman Mechanics don't like working on doors as they're rather like Chinese Puzzles ~ near impossible until you figure out the ' Just So ' order of proper assembly , then they go from total PIA to a regular PIA....
Alright, boys....hang on tight. Tommorrow I start in on the final stretch. I am trying to deliver this thing the third weekend of Feb. If all goes well and the Force is with me, I should be able o do it. I'll post updates as they come.
