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How to assemble an AD

Spent the morning organizing and planning, then ordering. Went to the body shop to sandblast the manifolds from the 235s. Used intake from one and exhaust from the other.
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Both had stuck heat risers. the first one freed up easily, but the hole was wallered out(technical southern term) and wouldn't act right. The other was very tight, but after some PB Blaster, a brass hammer and some creative language, it came free. Use lots of oil and work it back and forth until it moves freely. Use lots of oil also on the bolts that hold the 2 manifolds together to free them without shearing off anything.

For those who would like to know what is inside, this is the heat riser closed when cold.......
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Thus directing the hot exhaust air under the intake to warm it up.

And when warm and open....
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Shooting the gasses out to the tailpipe to offend greenies and hybrid owners everywhere.

This is the position that the weight should be in when cold....
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If you have problems with vapor lock, check to see that the heat riser is working properly and swinging freely.
 
Sooooo, yeasterday I got the bed wood fitted. Mark on the front and back panels and on the side panels where your mounting holes are. This will make drilling them much easier. Lay out the planks and strips to see if you need to make any adjustments. I had to cut about 1/8" off the ends of all the boards. Next lay in the planks to see how much trimming you need to do from the width of the side boards, (the ones that slip under the side rails). After many trials and cuttings and profound brain thingies inside my head, I ended cutting about 1 1/4" from each side just so the boards could all lay in. I cut judiciously to avoid removing too much.
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Now to remove them and sand, stain and oil them. I am going to oil them instead of varnishing them so that the bed can be used and be touched up if scratched.

Today, I pulled the front clip, engine and trans.
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The 235 is supposed to be ready tommorrow. I pulled the trans......what a project. There are 2 bolts at the top of the gearbox, and 2 bolts from inside the bellhousing. After removing them, pull the gearbox straight out. Now remove all the bolts from the pressure plate and remove it and the clutch. Next, swear at the flywheel bolts, then remove with an impact gun. Gently pry the flywheel off the crankshaft. Now there are 2 bolts at the top of the bellhousing from the outside, and 4 bolts from the inside, then remove the bellhousing. By this time, you should be fully saturated with gear oil and caked on dirt and grease....I know I was.
This is what I found in the lower clutch cover pan.....
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How the hell did that get in there?????? I guess a critter has been going through the clutch fork slot.

After much scraping and more wire wheeling, I have the bellhousing nice and mostly clean.
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Tomorrow, I will get the clutch from NAPA, hopefully the engine from the machine shop, and visit a friend with a balsting cabinet to clean up some of the pieces for the engine.

Stay tuned.....same truck time, same truck channel......
 
235 it is

ol' chebby said:
Larry, does your manifold have a big hole or a little hole? The 216 seems to have a much smaller hole for the fitting. That one is for a 235. Let me know if it will fit.
Click to expand...

Russ - I'm running a 235. Do you need a plug to replace the fitting? That's what I have in mine now. I'm not getting enough vacuum off my dual action fuel pump to run my OE wipers.
 
Intake Manifolds & DA Fuel Pumps

So ;

Are you going to use the truck or the passenger car intake manifold ? .

The plug can come in various different sizes , the tiny ones won't pull sufficient vacuum to run power brakes .

The DA fuel pumps are usually hooked up bass-ackwards ~ the wiper motor
hose goes to the intake of the fuel pump then the outlet of the fuel pump is connected to the port on the intake manifold ~ this way the highest vacuum source is always connected to the wipers and they'll flip-flop like <magic> regardless of engine speed or load . (dead silent too)

You don't really need a vacuum resivoir for the power brakes , just ensure there's a one way check valve in the 1/2" hose leading to them .
 
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Intake Manifolds

That's a truck one , the little ear on the front runner is for the horn .

I assume you checked to ensure the ports are the right size as 216 & 235 manifolds look the same but a 216 intake on a 235 will result in maddening vacuum leaks and poor running .

Use the three sheet metal alignment rings and leave the fasteners holding the
two manifolds loose until you've snugged them up to the cylinder head , this prevents warpong , leaking and cracking . tighten from the center and work outwards .

Then tighten the last four .
 
Finnally got the engine home, along with the unuseable lump.
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Bored .60 over, crank is .10 under. Balanced, flywheel surfaced, assembled, primed. Parts and labor-$1570. Now for the fun...cleaning and re assembly! First I scraped the gunk off the bellhousing, then spray with brake cleaner. Next hit it with a wire wheel on my grinder and enjoyed the loose wires sticking into my leg. Repeat with gearbox and all other pieces. It is amazing how much crap has built up on this thing.....but it isn't rusted. To assemble, first fit the bellhousing. there are 2 bolts at the top and 4 bolts from inside to the block. Next place the flywheel on the pegs, give a slight whack to start to set, then thread bolts and slowly tighten in a star pattern. Find the one bolt with buggered threads and swear loudly. Use die to clean up bolt, tap to try to clean threads. Break cheap chinese holder for tap into 3 pieces, finish by turning tap with big a$$ adjustable wrench. Now torque bolts in star pattern to 50-65 ft/lbs ( according to manual). Place clutch disc into pressure plate and insert alighnment tool into pilot bearing. Thread in all P.P. bolts, then tighten. Pick up now shiny gear box, slide in through splined clutch disc, swear, rotate tailshaft until splines line up, then slide in home. 2 bolts on top, 2 bolts on bottom from inside.
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Now almost ready for paint.

Spent the rest of the afternoon scraping the petrified gunk from frame.
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Tommorrow I need to borrow a press to adjust the water pump length. Here is the difference between a short and stock pump.

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I'll put on a press, then cut off excess.
 
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' Un - Useable Lump ' 235 Core Engine

? why ? .

Cannot a single piece be salvaged or rebuilt ? . that's very unusual .

BTW : never use the carby flange size to determine an intake manifolds application ~ that's how I discovered GM made a bazillion different 216/235 intake manifolds and you *MUST* measure the intake ports .

This thread is AMAZING ! I love it , would be good to make a DIY ' How To' book
out of it with all your great pictures and explanations .
 
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