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How to run new brake lines

ol' chebby

ol' chebby

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Location
Charlotte,NC
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www.rpettycustommurals.com
If anyone is re doing their brake lines on a 1/2 ton short bed, you will need.....

1-20" line, from the master to a "t"

3 30" lines...1 from the "T" to the left front rubber line, 1 from the "T" accross the crossmember to another "T", and one from this "T" to the right front rubber line.

1 61" line from this "T" to the back,into...

1 union

1 40" line from union to rear rubber line.

With these lines, they fit exactly when bent, and you don't have to flare any fittings!
 
Great tip !

Thanx for sharing it .

One of these days I should prolly do this .
 
NOW you tell me...

I'll forgive you for being to late with this info for me if you post the same info for one of those "under cab" dual mc setups. :p
 
For the dual M/C setups, I used a bracket from Master Power, a 67-76 corvette M/C for a disc/disc setup. I used 2 12" lines to the check valves(2# for disc, 10# for drums) then basically the same for the front, but ran the rear line down the driver's side to the "T" at the rear. I don't know exactly which sizes I used. NAPA now has a handy dandy kiosk with all their brake lines hanging out in the showroom. Grab at least 2 of each size, 3or4 30", 2 "T" blocks, 4 unions, then take back anything you don't need. Measure the general length of line needed, then use the lines that closest fit. Thread the system together, then come back and tighten everything when it is all layed out. A nice tubing bender is useful, but most can be bent by hand or knee if you are careful not to overbend or kink the lines.
 
Proportional valves choices and where to install ?

Thanks Russ for this information. When having stock brake lines in a combination front disc and rear drum brakes what would be technically adviceble to install the preset model or the adjustable one ? What is the difference between these to in function ?

N.B.I have seen power brake boosters units from CPP wich have the prop.valve unit directly installed underneath and connected to the booster !

But as this solution is a bit different as they are separated units , where would it be adviceble to instal the prop.valve ? I think maybe on the frame at the same level as the MC but i am not shore here ?


Never to old to learn new knowledge :) Thanks Martinius.
 
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The preset prop valve is fine for most applications, mount right near the master. The adjustable is for those who like to fine tune or "fiddle" with things. Everyone I know sets them and forgets them.

There are cheaper versions of each product out there, these were just readily available as examples. Look at CPP, Speedway or Summit.
 
The need of safety first !

To answer the question , yes it is in your combination of disc brakes and drums or disc brakes both in front and rear ! The prop.valve in general keeps the brake liguid pressure up and releases it in proportion where its needed towards the calipper . Russ allready explaned the rest earlyer. The MC without any prop. valve wont manage that as far as i know. Its not needed installing the prop valve with only drum drum aplications.

Martinius.


Zig said:
Is a proportioning valve needed? Ouch with the price!

Thanks, though!
Click to expand...
 
Dia brake lines ?

Russ

What is the outer and inner dia of the stock halv ton brake line?
When installing the lines between the dual mc and other parts will it be nescesary to have them expended at end of each line or do i stick the straight line into the holes of the mc connector without any modification ?

Martinius.

ol' chebby said:
If anyone is re doing their brake lines on a 1/2 ton short bed, you will need.....

1-20" line, from the master to a "t"

3 30" lines...1 from the "T" to the left front rubber line, 1 from the "T" accross the crossmember to another "T", and one from this "T" to the right front rubber line.

1 61" line from this "T" to the back,into...

1 union

1 40" line from union to rear rubber line.

With these lines, they fit exactly when bent, and you don't have to flare any fittings!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Martinius and Paul, OK, I went and dug out my receipts... I bought my brake stuff from Engineered Components, INC. 860-872-7046, http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/index.html I got the 67-72 Mustang dual Master Cylinder, (front disc/rear drum). Also got a 10 PSI Residual valve to install in the front brake line near the MC. The part nos are: EC-445 Mustang Master Cylinder $75.00, EC-655 10 PSI Residual Valve $25.00. I also bought the adapter for the dual MC, PN EC-420 $89.9. These are current prices, but if you wanna' go this route, I'd call and confirm these are all still the right part numbers. I expect that the Residual valve may be cheaper at a local parts store... Hope this is of some help. BTW, I have drum/drum. That's why the 10# residual valve for front. The MC has built-in residual for rear drum brakes as original on the Mustang.

If you're using Disc/Drum, or ever planning on such a change, consider using the Mustang dual MC, as it's built for front disc and rear drum, with built in residual valves for such. (That's what the Mustangs came with), When using this MC with front drums, you'll need to only add 10# residual valve for front brakes, and can remove it when you change to discs:) This MC has built in residual valve for rear drums. I have installed this setup in my truck, and then converted to front discs, and removed the front 10# res. valve, and it works great.
 
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