Zig, Great job with brake conversion. Thanks for the Pics and information as to parts supply... I totally agree with you on safety especially braking. I upgraded my 65 mustang to disc brakes up front many yrs ago and want to add this (disc) to my project list on the 53 pickup. Keep up the good work, Carlos.
Thanks, Carlos. The good folks here gave me the courage, and I knew this was a much discussed item, so if figured I get some shots and post the thread for future interests. Glad I could actually help for a change!
Looks Great Zig. I did mine last summer. I went with the power master, new king pins and bearing. Nice little project.
Heck yes! Speaking of looking great! (and eerily familiar...) Have you been driving yours around yet?
no no driving yet. still waiting on engine this and body that. She is a few years from driving at this pace. but thanks for asking
wheels Zig, where were your original wheels rubbing? And what size were they? I've got some old 15" artillery rims on mine and I'm thinking about going your route, if they would fit.
Dang, Boardwalk Jo! I guess I completely missed your question almost a year ago! My wheels are 16". I wonder if anyone out there is running 15" with this set up? So sorry I missed your question!
Buffalo! I had a real nice chat with the folks at Buffalo Enterprises today. They offer a conversion to the Chevy 4x4 setup that fits your existing six lug hubs (you can but don't necessarily need to upgrade to tapered rollers). You supply your own rotors, calipers, brake lines, and pads. Commonly available Chevy parts. $185 plus shipping for the kit. Track width does not change (some other vendors kits move the wheels out); but stock wheels do not clear the calipers. Later GM or aftermarket wheels clear. But they don't really recommend this setup. Instead, they also offer a kit that uses Ford F100 Rotors. Downside to this is that it comes 5 on 5.5". So they also recommend a 57-72 Ford 9" truck rear. Say it's 1" narrower than stock AD, and is bulletproof. I didn't catch the price on this kit, as it's probably not the way I'll go. Just a couple more options in the disc brake swap arena. I first got Buffalo's number as the source for Nicson GMC headers, $500 plus shipping. Their number is (360) 652-7684.
Zig - A couple of questions for you.... Zig, I am doing this same conversion right now on my truck and I just wanted to clarify that this is the only piece I actually need from the original drum setup: And I actually do not need this piece or the seal that was between the 2 pieces? Additionally, do you think I could/should blast and powder coat the piece I need to keep (the hub). Also could I/should I blast and powder coat this bracket? You opinion and others in the forum would be greatly appreciated.
When I put the Buffalo Enterprises (nice name for a one man shop) disk brake kit on my '57 GMC 20 years ago I left the oil slinger off with no apparent problems.
Yup~ That is the only piece you need. I left the slinger off as well. It's a good piece to keep if you want to look through a stack of old wheels and check to see if they'd fit however. (the bolt pattern/hub size) I just 3M wheeled my hubs down, primed and painted with rustoleum. I suppose they could be powder coated, but I if they ever need sprucing up in the distant future, I know I can simply repaint them. That's looking mighty fine! BTW, I just reused the ball bearings. Are you changing to roller bearings?
BTW, I can't believe it has been two years already. By the 17th I might have it all finished off, finally! Sheeze I'm slow!
Steve, I have a question for you. (or anyone who reads this and can tell me) Is there a large, flat washer between the pitman arm and the drag link? I finally got a castle nut to hook the two together, but I never took a before picture and apparently misplaced the bag that had that hardware in it. Thanks for any speedy response to this question, as I intend on getting out there and getting back to work. After two years, it is about time!
Thanks, Bill! How 'bout between the pitman arm and castle nut. Please tell me no, because I got the nut on, but getting the groves past where the cotter pin goes through was nearly impossible! If it has a washer between the two, I'm screwed.
Bill beat me to an answer Was out working in the yard most of the day so there was very little time to log onto the computer and/or work on the truck. As Bill mentioned, I am 100% sure there was no washer on either. I did have the chance to get the other wheel ready and I blasted both of them tonight. I was giving further thought to powder coating them and I have a little bit of a problem with them. Before I decided to do the frame off I had put in new roller bearings. They are currently pressed in there and I doubt I could get them out without completely ruining them. Somehow I have a feeling that powder coating them would create problems due to all of the heat and the grease that is still in there. Since they are nice and clean now I think I will hit them with some self-etching primer, some black semi-gloss and call it good. So to answer your question I will be using the roller bearings but only because the ones I had put in have probably less than 10 miles on them. I think I still may powder coat the brackets that came with the disk brake kit. I suppose I would have to blast those first though to get whatever coating is on those brackets off?
Nice!!! It brings back fond memories! I just connected my steering today, (Thank you and Bill for the washer info!) so now I need to pull the steering wheel again as I didn't find the center the first time I installed it. It's okay, because I needed to repaint the horn button anyway. been thinking of a good Chiefs paint scheme for it and I think I have one.
