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Its never easy!

Flashlight

Flashlight

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Location
Greeneville, Tennessee....Looking out over the Smo
So I got my tax refund and my 47' needed a water-pump. I took it to my local Repair shop, they whined about rusty bolts Yada..Yada. But I'm treating myself to this and no busted Knuckles, this time.:D

They got it in alright and no leaks, except...:eek::eek: When they were purging my coolant with a vacuum type device it caved in the top of the radiator:confused: They say it can be pounded out, but I doubt it. It is my little show truck after all.

So I am going to buy a used original and have them put it in, as penance for screwing it up. Surprisingly it still holds fluid and cools...just looks bad. So does anyone have a watertight original around for reasonable bucks??:rolleyes:
 
I have an original that my radiator guy said would need a new core, but the tanks are good. If I had one clue as to how to disassemble it (safely), I'd take it apart and send you whatever you need. I'm going to visit him again this week regarding an old fire truck radiator, so I will take the one out of my '50 parts truck (if a '50 radiator will work for you) and have him take it apart for me. What exactly do you need?

Damon
 
I was beginning to feel out of luck. My radiator cools fine and is water tight. Must be much tighter then I thought because i'm sure a great deal of vacuum must have been present to cave in the filler top. If it comes apart then I only need the top brass collar piece which would be basically everything you see looking from top down. My cap is good. Could you ask about labor on my end to replace tops...I have no clue. I'll just be happy for original radiator again.

I'll take a pic of it, but I'm pretty sure a 50' will go on a 47'

Wow..Thank-you!
 
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Flashlight, i found a guy in Johnson City that still recores our old radiators. He pressure tested mine. Said his dad started the business in 58 and he took over in 72. Let me know if you want his name and address.
 
Would it make more sense for me to just send you the whole thing? I realize there would be more shipping costs involved that way. I dunno... thoughts?

Damon
 
Maybe some brighter minds will chime in. But I would think the core and tanks are the recycle value for you. I'm thinking I just need the frame and top to put my innards back into. Either way I don't mind paying for it. If its easiest for you just to send it all, I can take it from there. Again thank you for helping me out of a jam. If yours is not bad off maybe I'll just get it repaired, and do someone else the favor again.
 
Repair Foolishness

A vacuum pump to fill the cooling system ?! :confused: .

Those guys are MORONS and should not be allowed to check anyone's oil much less handle tools :mad: .

Your radiator isn't ' show ' anymore as it's a vented system as original and someone replaced the filler neck to make it hold pressure or vacuum .

The original Harrison top tank was stamped with HARRISON and 47 when new , yes the '50 tank will fit and work fine but if looking at ' 50 ' when you're checking the oil bothers you.......

I'd just have Damon take it to his competent Radiator Shop where they'll sweat the top tank off in 30 seconds or so then he can invert it and fill with old cardboard to prevent the U.P.S. Man from crushing it , then double pack it inside a sturdy box , that's all you'll need and the freight charges even with double cardboard packing , will be less than 1/2 of shipping the whole old radiator .

DO NOT let those fools touch it ! they cannot be trusted to do it right and not damage it worse .

Keep asking 'round until you find a competent Radiator Shop , there's always one although it might be three Counties over .

Be sure to drill the 3/16" vent / bleed hole in the thermostat flange while you're waiting to get the radiator fixed then just fill it slowly , allowing the coolant level to go down , once the tubes are covered by 1/2" or so start the engine and pull the heater knob right out , leaving the blower fan off , fast idle the engine to bleed it out and add only sufficient coolant to cover the tubes in the top tank by 1" ~ more will get puked out as you drive ~ modern engines want the coolant level 1/2" below the filler neck but these sturdy Old Tech Mechanical Marvels only want the least amount of coolant they need and so will " self level " by puking out any extra .

Use a good quality coolant mixed 40 % distilled water to 60 % coolant ~ READ THE LABEL as often it'll say " silica and phosphorus free ! " in big print on the label but the tiny print on the back will mention phosphorus and silica....
 
Thanks Nate, I'm happy that Damon is helping me out and trying not to overburden his good Samaritan instinct. You have answered the big question which was can it be done and is it expensive....so yes and no...in that order! makes me happy.

I think they collapsed it when draining...and yeah I'm looking for a competent mechanic again. Maybe Tailgator has someone in these hills he uses. I love working on it but I've got sometimes too many engines to maintain, so I treat myself to an outside repair.

Thanks for your input!
 
I have a good selection of radiator tanks & mounting straps.
PM for more info.
 

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