Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

So far so good, I really have zero complaints.

Keep in mind though my truck spends most of it's time in my shop (unheated), so it hasn't seen much UV.

In reality though, you are using it on an interior, which is in reality "indoor".

 

Thanks! Glad to hear that.

 

window fuzzies

Lakeroadster, on post #70, you showed the Repop brand fuzzie install. I picked up same brand kit for '63 a few yrs ago from a vendor at the Western Stock Show complex winter swap meet. Just now getting around to installing them. Started on the driver's side (most worn out side). I didn't know about the shiny ones being more rust resitant, and the original's weren't stainless or chrome, so got the black ones. Like you showed on your install, I noticed the fuzzies across the window ledge fit a little bit lower too, and one of the clips smashed out of shape. Also, not sure if this is why, but now the window is lacking 1/4" from rolling up into the top frame. Seems the sash bracket that the glass bolts to is hitting the door sill edge, or is it due to the fuzzies? Curious on what the Repop guys said? I'm not sure if my crank gear slipped a cog maybe before re-installing the glass, or why it won't roll all the way up.

Just tripped across your '65 C10 build thread, after a search for fuzzie install issues. Nice patina, and other functional improvements with your orange crate colored shop truck build there!

thanks,

63 Fleetside,
green acres looking bumped up C10 (except didn't that ol' show sponser Mopar stuff?)

 

The guys at Repop talked a good game but never followed through with their commitment.

On three separate occasions I called and talked with the production floor foreman. He said they would send me new fuzzies, free of charge, to replace their defect parts.

They never did send them. As they say, a fella's only as good as his word.

Bottom line is the clips are in the wrong place, from the factory. If they had sent new one's I am betting they would be wrong too.

I contemplated removing the fuzzy's to modify them. Basically using a grinder or cut off wheel to trim down the bottom of the steel part of the fuzzy to achieve the correct window vertical location when rolled up. But to do that you'll have to remove the glass, remove the fuzzy, and you can bet more of the clips will break off when it is removed. Pi$$ poor, by any measure.

Repops products are typical of most aftermarket parts... look similar to OEM, the fit and finish is "reject" quality, install reveals issues, customer service is lacking.

Reject quality? I was told that back in "the day" replacement body panels from "GM" were rejects from the factory floor, basically defective or damaged parts. They were stored and sold as replacement parts. That's what I mean by "reject" quality.

 

fuzzies

Thanks Lakeroadster HPofC.
Don't remember if this 65 build thread showed what you ended up doing to get your fuzzies (not the warm and fuzzie kind) to clear to allow your window to roll up. I'm considering cutting off Re-pops mis-positioned clips and glueing in, or? Problem with that, is it would be harder to service the window in the future, without tearing them apart.
Also, it seems that the earlier (50's) pickups had a rubber outer anti rattle strip, and not a felt fuzzie whisker style? Did your orignals have fuzzies on the inner and outer strips? My originals had felts on both.

 

Yes the originals had felt on the inner and outer strips... well what was left of the original felt anyway.

 

Hope all works well for ya, sorry to hear about the issues! Tom.

 

CHEVROLET "Old School" Tailgate Script

A fella over at the Chevy Talk site was wanting to know what font type our trucks had on the tailgate. Since it's a one off I offered to scan it into cad for him. Thought I would share it here too.

Hi Resolution Photo:


Uploaded Photo into CAD and scaled for 3-3/4" high letters x 36-1/2" width:


Traced OEM Font:


Update 03-11-2014:

I have also created Chevy 60-66 Fleetside, Chevy 47-53 Stepside and GMC 47-53 Stepside Tailgate letter cadfiles.

If you would like a copy of any of the cad files shown in this thread send me a PM with your email address.

Chevy 60-66 Fleetside


Chevy 47-53 Stepside


GMC 47-53 Stepside

 

Stance

I had a fella ask about the stance of my truck on another website. I made some diagrams for him and thought it made sense to post them here for future reference.

Dimensions shown are from the axle c/l to the fender wheel opening.

Front



Rear



Ye Ole Orange Crate


Overall Dimensions for My C10



Stock Dimensions

 

Bed Step No Slip Paint May 2014

I painted the ribs on the bed steps today with Rustoleum Undercoating. I used this on the step bumper on my daily driver and it works very well.







Also drug my early 70's Sears / Roper Mini Bike out of the rafters. Restoring it is on my short list of upcoming projects.



My first "factory built" Hot Rod:

 

Grill Letter Masking Template

I am wanting to paint the letters on my grill, instead of using vinyl stickers. I have a used aluminum grill so I took pictures of the letters and transferred them into CAD. I'll need to make a masking template then lay down some paint.

Kind of strange that the script on the tailgate looks nothing like the script on the grill? Also found it strange that the "C" and the "O" are taller letters than all the rest? But somehow it looks right.... things that make me

 

Looks Good !

John ;

Those step plates look nice now .

I have slipped off the ding-danged things when working in downpours .

I await details on the Mini - Bike .

 

Hey John....been real busy on Ratnest for a few weeks. About half way finished installing my Ron Francis "Bare Bonz" wiring kit. Once that's done, I'll be putting on the doors and front sheet metal.

Anyway, my mind is moving forward and I re-visited your build photos to refresh my memory on how you did the faux-patina. It's very appealing to me and since my entire truck (except i/s bed) is in gray primer (several coats) I think I might do the faux-patina thing too.

Why couldn't I spray selected areas with Krylon satin and do the sanding tricks you used? Whatchathink?

 

Bingo! Nate, That's what inspired me to do the undercoating trick. I did the same thing, my shins have the scars to prove it.​

Ratnest, The roller is what gives the primer texture; highs and lows. Then the paint covers the highs and lows. Then when you sand, the paint comes off the high areas and stays in the low areas. That's what results in the "patina" look.

If you eliminate the rolled on primer it won't look the same as my ole orange crate. Not saying it won't work, just saying it won't look the same.​

Texture is the key...


Then paint, then color sand, It goes from totally hideous to fauxtina with some elbow grease and 320 grit.



​

 

Makes good sense to me....thanks for the advice.

 

May 2014: Painting "Chevrolet" On The Grill

I know there are vinyl letters available, but I prefer paint, so here's how I made my own masking template to paint the CHEVROLET letters on the grill of the ole Orange Crate.

Using blue painters tape, the CAD letters I created and clear shipping tape I cut out each individual letter

​

I then cut out the letters using an X-Acto knife

​

I attached each template onto each letter

​

Then it was a simple matter to mask around the templates and spray paint the letters

​

Ain't she pretty

​

 

06-10-2014: Broken Reverse Transmission Shift Lever Stud..

Yet another adventure...

Got any M21 Muncie guru's that could offer advice on the following:

The M21 Muncie 4-speed in my '65 C10 has a broken reverse shift stud. Is it possible to drill and tap the reverse shaft or is it a hardened part?:
(1963-1965 vintage M21: Main case 3851325, Tail Housing 3846429, Side Cover 3831707)

​

I have a spare M-21 which is a newer vintage M21 ('68-'70). I bought it about 15 years ago, don't know much about its history? Funny thing is it also has the side stud style shift arms, except for reverse, which has a bolt in it. Does this seem "factory correct" or is this more likely to be a modification from a previous owner ?
(68-70 vintage M21: Main case 3925660, Tail Housing 3857584, Side Cover 3950306)

​

 

John I`m sure by now you`ve figuired that you`ll have to pull the trans, and either replace or fix the shifter stud, they changed in late `69, so I understand. I`m sure they used all the older style covers, tail housings until all have been exhausted, the newer style has a differant part number on them don`t they so I`m guessing the is a differance.

 

Muncie Trans Reverse Shaft Repair 06-15-2014

I was able to repair the busted threaded portion of the reverse shaft discussed above by drilling and tapping the shaft while the transmission was still in the truck. I also confirmed what the Muncie guru's were telling me, the original OEM shaft design was not a screw in stud.

Numerous sources told me that the shaft is hardened, and I believe it is, but not very hard. Drilling was fairly easy, tapping was a bit unnerving, but successful nonetheless. I used a grade 5 bolt to make a screw in stud, then used some red thread locker.

The repair was made easier by the exhaust routing I did quite a while ago. By simply unbolting the exhaust from the headers and hangers I was able to access the transmission easily.

 

I also confirmed what the Muncie guru's were telling me, the original OEM shaft design was not a screw in stud.
You are right the originals where as you said but it was a design change that came into play late `69, they changed the side cover as well at the same time, in the late 70`s was a another major change was the gear ratios to run with friendlier highway gears... http://www.5speeds.com/casting.html and here ....http://chevellestuff.net/qd/muncie.htm