Bolting Down The Bed I used 1" spacers under the bed to raise the bed so the steps will be flush with the bottom of the body. This also raises the bed such that the indentations on the back of the cab are hidden. This may have been needed as a result of the bed being a 67-72. That's the way it was when I bought it and I swapped the fenders and steps for the correct ones for the truck. This is a photo of the rear bed support, it is not stock. I fabricated this mount during the rear frame changes when I did the frame mount gas tank. Close quarters back here due to the location of the modified roll pan.
Fauxtina Paint Post #13: Rear Fenders and Roll Pan Sanded and de-glossed the rear fenders and roll pan. Mocked up the right rear fender to get a visual.
Excellent Coverage Howdy, I'm new to the site and have enjoyed your pictures and documentation of your project.After many years of sitting ,I'm finally starting my project again , a 62 short step.I hope you'll allow me to use some of these ideas on my truck.... where in the High Plains of Colorado ...Aurora here.. Ray
Hey Ray, whatta ya say? Welcome to the site! I was admiring your 1953 Chevy 2 door Sedan earlier today. Very nice. In regards to using some of my ideas... My mod's. are posted up here for your use.... have at it! My ranch is up north in the Weld County / Brighton - Thornton area. Happy Trails!
Installing Rear fenders and Steps Nov. 26th, 2011 I wanted to use some kind of fender welting on my truck but didn't want to use the stock fabric type due to its water retaining problems. I ended up using Peel & Seal. It comes in a 6" wide x 25 ft roll, purchased at Home Depot. Peel and Seal has a tar like black base with an adhesive on one side and dead soft aluminum on the other side. I cut it with sheet metal shears. I started by cutting (3) 1-3/8" wide x 19" long strips and sticking them to the fender lip. I used an X-Acto knife to cut the bolt hole openings. The aluminum is thin and soft and cuts easily. This shows the sticky tar side of the Peel & Seal. Once I installed the (3) strips I custom cut pieces for the corners. I also applied the Peel & Seal to the fender at the location of the step. This was one of the easiest projects I have done thus far on my truck. Alot to look at in this photo. Wheel Tubs, exhaust routing, drop springs, bump stop.... I used some 3/8" eyebolts in (4) locations to use as tie downs. It definately has the old Hot Rod shop truck look I am after. Sure is great bolting things on for what I fully expect is the last time. I rolled the fender lips flat before I painted them. There appears to be plenty of tire clearance, but not so much that the rear looks narrow. I like the wheels to fill the fenders. Next.... installing the rear roll pan, license plate lights and the '64 impala tail lights.
That looks so cool. Nice to see it coming back together John. I find it a lot more fun building something that doesn't have to be perfect in every detail, then I'm not afraid to use it. To me it looks a lot more burly with the orange paint than it did in white.
Thanks Guys. Mark you hit the nail on the head. Normally when reassembling after paint it is a tedious process. Not so with the patina look, the battle scars are things of pride. And in regards to the white paint, I have never been a huge fan of white vehicles. To "pure" looking I guess. This will be my first orange vehicle, my dad had an orange 1970 C20 when I was a teenager. I learned how to drive in it, a sentimental favorite now.
Installing Roll Pan and '64 Impala Tail Lights 12-04-2011 Installed license plate lights into the roll pan and then bolted up the roll pan. Also installed the '64 Impala tail lights.
great build! I just joined from one of those other forums when I saw you were not there anymore. Keep up the nice work.
01-01-2012: Painting Chevrolet On The Tailgate Happy New Year! Painted the CHEVROLET script on the tailgate using a high density foam roller and some satin white Rustoleum paint. To keep the paint just on the face of the stamped letters I painted the letters while the tailgate was down. Came out pretty good, will look even better once I distress them a bit.
cool application I may need to remove my white stickers letters. any pinstripping in the future? Happy new year.
That looks so much better with the contrasting color. Clever idea doing them upside down. Doing it flat on a bench would be a lot more tedious to prevent mistakes. Just another example of how many ways a lift can save labor. I'd love to have one but my garage isn't tall enough.
Haven't been able to spend much time in the shop Rich. Finishing the paint will have to wait until spring. But I have some patch panels to install and I am stoked about building a front push style pipe bumper. All I gotta do is find the time. The Inspiration For The Pipe Front Bumper.....
Some where under that Brandywnie paint I got there is factory orange paint, if I wait long enough it will show thru, its starting now in some areas...where all the battle scars are..... Maybe I will help it.
Impressive Work ! John ; I applaud you for showing how you've done this . You're the very essence of what " Hot Rodding " means .
That brandywine looks pretty good in the photos Rich... I am doing the color change 'cause I've always been a push over for Hugger Orange, that and an all white truck is just way too "Mr. Clean". Thanks. Ever since I was a kid I have been taking stuff apart, making changes, and then putting it back together. More recently my hot rodding is more like therapy, it helps me get my mind right.
Sawzall 2, Frame Horns Zero In preparation for the front pipe bumper I needed to remove my front frame horns. My trusty sawzall made the removal easy: Once they were off I pulled some dimensions and then designed a front push bumper. Time to buy some 4" pipe, some pipe caps, and have at it.