I've read a couple threads where owners of lifts have had the controls fail ON when the lift is raising. Depending on when that happens it could be really bad. So I updated the controls on my 2-post lift to include a kill switch. _________________________________________________________________ Here was the design I came up with that uses an aluminum enclosure and a paddle switch. Both were found via amazon.com The design replaces the existing hydraulic power unit electric control cover plate and bolts right on in its place. This allows the lift micro switch and the paddle switch to be close together. _________________________________________________________________ And here is the completed retrofit.
John, do you just push and hold the green micro switch button to lift, or do these lifts have a wired, controller, to lift the vehicle? I assume the lever control is simply a return valve to allow the vehicle to lower. Interesting. I would have thought the manufacturer, would have designed a setup like that, in the first place. It appears the elec./hydraulic unit is properly equipped with a pressure regulator. So, if the elec. control were to get stuck in the lift position, would the lift cylinders just go to the top, over pressure, and the bypass kick in and allow you to kill power at the breaker? What happens if a hyd. hose blows, the vehicle should catch on a safety? Does the factory pressure regulator have a tamper resistant seal on it? It should, and I would be surprised if it doesn't. Steve.
Yes the small round green microswitch when pushed in starts the power unit That's correct. There is a cross over bar at the top of the lift that has a limit switch. If anything touches the bar, it shuts off the lift. The lift has an upper cross over beam. There is a cable that connects the right and left side that goes up and over the cross over beam. If a hose fails both sides would drop at the same time, until the next safety stop engages. No seal. I wasn't to concerned about the lift staying on until a guy told me his stuck on prior to him having the arms located correctly under the vehicle. Stop and think about that. I typically eye ball the arms into position, then engage and stop the lift when the arms are close to the vehicle lift points. If it just kept going it could do serious damage. For instance, on my '69 Camaro (unibody), the rear lift point is at the leaf spring front bracket. It's small and takes some precise locating... and the brake line is close too. If the lift didn't stop it could lift the car by the floorpan.. or crush the brake line. I'm surprised that all ALI certified lifts aren't required to have a kill switch, or a disconnect, adjacent to the micro switch... seems penny wise, dollar foolish. If you were a quick thinker you'd just depress the lowering valve if the micro switch stuck on... but if your in the shop by yourself.. how do you kill power to the unit? Call for back-up? John
Yikes. Or, pop out just enough to hook the quarter panels, and remove them... I'm surprised something hasn't happened, and forced the manufacturer to make revisions. Soon, it should be time to get the fun cars out and blow out the winter cobwebs... Steve.
