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New fenders

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p51mustang

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Sure this has been asked,but wondering if anyone has used the new 58
-59 front fenders out that are being offered,if you have how did they fit and what you liked or didn't like?
Was thinking of maybe going this route on the RH side of my 58.
Thanks,Allen
 
Hey! Yes Chevy Duty sells them, I bought a set the fit isn't so bad, but remember these are reproductions so you may have to slot your inner fender well holes, but not too much, the only problem i really had a problem with is the 2 front holes on the fender well don't line up at all, a simple solution drill the 2 holes and fill the others with a weld or fiberglass and a little body work magic, but over all there actually pretty decent.

Jesse Hazell Chevy Duty Tech.
 
I just recently bought a repo Rt fender for my 58 3100. The manufaactur is Dynacorn. You can check them out at www.dynacorn.com. My old fender was in pretty bad shape especially around the headlight and it had the normal rusted out spots by the top and bottom rear. I already repaired the LT fender so I decided to pay the $$$$ to save a bunch of work.

If I could do it over again I would never buy the repo fender unless it is the last resort. In the previous post you were told you may have to make a few adjustments to the inner fender well in the front. Well that is an understatement. Actually to fix it right the front most mount (where the wheel well bolts on to the fender)is spotwelded 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch too far back on the fender. I drilled out all of the spot welds, repositioned the bracket and rewelded it. Then the inside of the headlight had to be pulled over 1 1/2 incheses with a come along. I also had to cut the headlight bucket bracket and weld it back later. See attached photo.After a little more adjusting with a 2x4 and a BFH it finally fits pretty nice. Well I hope Dynacorn make some adjustments to there jig. Over all the fender isn't too bad but don't think you are going to get it bolted on and aligned in an afternoon.

58 chevy project
 
See my photos here

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ltsgodvn/album?.dir=/1415&.src=ph&.tok=phlGYREBKpNzrspE
 
I am interested in how you shortened your truck. I assume that you shortened your model 3200 to 3100 specs? That is what I plan to do with my 1956 3200.

I found shorter 3100 running boards on E-Bay, believe that I can use the original 3200 fenders, and plan on finding 3100 step sides. I would remove nine inches from the frame just behind the cab. I am wondering if that is consistent with what you did, or what reference data you might have used.

Many thanks
 
I was wondering how difficult it was to replace the step and cab corner? Have you done that sort of thing before?

I was also curious if you found any traped media in your cab and if you could do it over, would you e have it blasted inside & out again?

Thanks,
Eric
 
I used the frame checking instructions from the chevy assembly manual. I scanned the page at the higest resolution I could get on my scanner. I then blew it up and printed it on a large plotter at work. After many hour of checking measurements over and over everywhich way I came up with taking out 9.25 inches behind the cab.

As far as I could tell the 3100 and 3200 frames are exaclty the same from the front to just behind the cab. There is a reference hole there drilled in the frame at the factory. We then used the pieces we cut out with a sawsall for boxing the frame I thought it worked out well. A photo here http://www.tagworld.com/AZMark
Please check and verify what I did.


>I am interested in how you shortened your truck. I assume
>that you shortened your model 3200 to 3100 specs? That is
>what I plan to do with my 1956 3200.
>
>I found shorter 3100 running boards on E-Bay, believe that I
>can use the original 3200 fenders, and plan on finding 3100
>step sides. I would remove nine inches from the frame just
>behind the cab. I am wondering if that is consistent with
>what you did, or what reference data you might have used.
>
>Many thanks
 
I would say this depends on your level of experience. I never did this before but I was an auto mechanic for 10 years, took welding and shop classes. Take your time think it through before cutting away old parts. Mach everything up after tack welding to make sure everything fits and the door closes and lines up. I wasn't that hard if you take your time. The toughest part for me was learning how to mg weld sheetmetal. Stich weld small welds slowly.

Media blasting saved so much time if I do another car I would do it again. I found a good blaster the he removed most all media. He told me the media is expensive so he spent time getting most all of it out. He uses different types of media depending on what he is blasting. Soon as I got it back after blasting I shot everything with a 2K primmer with a urathane reducer to seal it. This way no rust could start. If you decide to blast your parts take it to an experienced person because you can ruin a hood or cab roof if you don't know what you are doing.

Mark
http://www.tagworld.com/AZMark




>I was wondering how difficult it was to replace the step and
>cab corner? Have you done that sort of thing before?
>
>I was also curious if you found any traped media in your cab
>and if you could do it over, would you e have it blasted
>inside & out again?
>
>Thanks,
>Eric
 
This is great, thanks for the detail. The 3100 running boards I bought are 9&1/4 inches shorter than my 3200 running boards, which is consistent with your calculation.

You've done a lot of fine work on your project. Thanks again for sharing it.
 
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