New motor with no oil pressure...

[my63c10]

Hi again all.....

So I have installed my newly rebuilt 230ci in my '63 C10. Motor was professionally built, not by me. All I had to do was install the new oil pump, which was supplied by the company that built the motor. I will be contacting the company with my problem but would like input from anybody who has had this problem...

Their instructions that came with the motor were to crank the motor without the spark plugs. After the oil pressure built up, I am to continue cranking the motor for two minutes. After that time, I can install the plugs and wires and start the motor, then let it run for 15 minutes at 1800 rpm.

The problem is, I have no oil pressure at all.... I only cranked the motor for about 20-30 seconds two times and stopped, afraid of doing damage.

Why would I not have any oil pressure?

I hate to think of having to pull the motor again!!!!!

 

[my63c10]

One of my buddies just emailed me and said I should remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill for about one minute. He says the pump needs primed... Does this make sense?

 

[bigtimjamestown]

Try this, pull the distributor out then get a drill motor with a long shaft installed in it with a screwdriver type end on it , just like the end of the distributor. Then put it in the distributor hole until it makes contact with the oil pump then run the drill. When that pump starts to build pressure it will just about stop the drill motor. The other thing is make sure the distributor is all the way down in the hole. the distributor drives the oil pump. If none of this works then you could have a pipe plug that wasn't installed in a oil galley. I am also assuming that you put the pickup tube on the oil pump before you installed it. I hope all this helps you ....Big Tim

 

[my63c10]

Thanks for the response Big Tim.... The distributor is down all the way and it is turning when we crank. When you mention sump, I'm assuming you mean the strainer/tube that connects to the oil pump? Yes, I did install that. I'll let you know what happens when I spin the pump... Thanks for the advice!

 

[johan]

I just put a new engine in me truck and I turned the oil pump with the drill first to prim the pump it only took like 2 seconds to get it primed and let it pump for 3 min ,I was getting 50 psi on the gauge .
Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[my63c10]

I spun the pump with the drill and within 5 seconds it was primed. Got the engine started and and oil pressure is about 50. Thanks for the tip!!!

 

[my63c10]

New Motor with Ticking Sound

Motor is timed and running. However, there is a pretty noticeable ticking sound and it is running kind of rough, like it's not firing on all cylinders. What could this be? Per the instructions when I received the motor, once started, I ran it at 1800 rpm for 15 minutes. When I drive, the truck seemd to have pretty good pickup but it just seems a little out of tune. Timing is set and new plugs and wires installed. Thanks for your help!

 

[johan]

check the valve lash

 

[my63c10]

I pulled the valve cover off and found that the rocker arm for the #1 exhaust valve was off to the side of the valve assembly and both the rod and stud are bent. The stud also has a notch where the rocker arm cut into it. I need to replace the stud and I believe these are "push-in" studs. Does anyone know where I can get the tool(s) needed to push a new stud into place? If not, is it easy enough to tap for a threaded stud? Thanks!

 

[bigtimjamestown]

I pulled the valve cover off and found that the rocker arm for the #1 exhaust valve was off to the side of the valve assembly and both the rod and stud are bent. The stud also has a notch where the rocker arm cut into it. I need to replace the stud and I believe these are "push-in" studs. Does anyone know where I can get the tool(s) needed to push a new stud into place? If not, is it easy enough to tap for a threaded stud? Thanks!

I had that happen on a small block Chevy once and this is what I did and never had any problems after that..... Get a new push in stud and or use the old one if you can and screw the nut on to it so that the threads are flush with the top of the nut then just tap it back in to the hole with a hammer. Then get a 1/8" roll pin and drill through the stud tower all the way through the stud and out the other side and put the roll pin in. this will keep the stud from coming back out. Good luck....Big Tim

 

[my63c10]

Top Dead Center

OK... Stud is in as well as new push rod, rocker arm, ball and nut. Valves have been checked for lash and adjusted. Now for my biggest battle.... The hardest thing for me to do is get the distributor in correctly. Here is how I've been told to go about doing it.... Pull the #1 spark plug. Make a ball out of a napkin or paper towel, then stick in the hole of the #1 spark plug. Crank the motor in short spurts until the paper towl "pops" out of the hole. At that point, I am supposed to be a little past TDC. Then I was told to turn the crank back by hand so the timing notch on the harmonic balancer lines up with the "0" mark on the crank/camshaft cover. This should be TDC, correct? The distributor is then placed and the rotor needs to be pointing towards the #1 plug when installed. The body of the distributor should then be rotated so that the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap is pointing to the #1 plug like the rotor. Tighten down the distributor with the clamp then start the motor.... hopefully. Adjust timing, etc... Is this procedure correct? As always... Thanks!

 

[bigtimjamestown]

OK... Stud is in as well as new push rod, rocker arm, ball and nut. Valves have been checked for lash and adjusted. Now for my biggest battle.... The hardest thing for me to do is get the distributor in correctly. Here is how I've been told to go about doing it.... Pull the #1 spark plug. Make a ball out of a napkin or paper towel, then stick in the hole of the #1 spark plug. Crank the motor in short spurts until the paper towl "pops" out of the hole. At that point, I am supposed to be a little past TDC. Then I was told to turn the crank back by hand so the timing notch on the harmonic balancer lines up with the "0" mark on the crank/camshaft cover. This should be TDC, correct? The distributor is then placed and the rotor needs to be pointing towards the #1 plug when installed. The body of the distributor should then be rotated so that the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap is pointing to the #1 plug like the rotor. Tighten down the distributor with the clamp then start the motor.... hopefully. Adjust timing, etc... Is this procedure correct? As always... Thanks!

Or you can skip the paper towel trick and with the valve cover off if both valves are closed on the #1 Cyl. and the timing marks lined up on zero you will be top dead center on the compression stroke too......Big Tim