Bill Hanlon
Member
You can. Mount the electric pump near the gas tank outlet.
Places like Jegs and Summit have them.
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Places like Jegs and Summit have them.
cmkruse
Member
Bill and Nate, Thanks so much. The drawing is great for those of us that are technically challenged. Now all I need to do is Getter Done as they say.
I use the electric fuel pump as a primer, it pushes through the factory manual pump easily .
I just added one to my brother's 1979 Dodge D200, a momentary push button discretely mounted, press the button and listen to the pump chattering away, when it slows down the carby's bowl is full, set the choke, turn on the ignition and light the engine off .
O my 1959 Nash Metropolitan FHC I occasionally use it to clear vapor locking in the Desert .
I just added one to my brother's 1979 Dodge D200, a momentary push button discretely mounted, press the button and listen to the pump chattering away, when it slows down the carby's bowl is full, set the choke, turn on the ignition and light the engine off .
O my 1959 Nash Metropolitan FHC I occasionally use it to clear vapor locking in the Desert .
cmkruse
Member
Thanks Nate that was what I was wondering if I could use it like that. My truck sits and the pump bowl goes dry just sitting and then I have to use starting fluid to get er going again. I'll add the relay and a push button switch.
Bill Hanlon
Member
Don't need the relay if the switch is rated for as much or more than the pump requires.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID EVER !!! .
It *explodes* instead of burning and so beats the living crap out of your rod bearings .
Just try using the cube pump as a priming device, remember that fuel that keeps flowing after a collision or the engine quits is a real fire hazard .
If that doesn't get you going, maybe try a different route but after sitting for three months every engine I've done this to, quickly roars into life again .
Remember : keeping your engine sharply tuned (plenty of older posts on this) will $ave your battery and much aggravation .
It *explodes* instead of burning and so beats the living crap out of your rod bearings .
Just try using the cube pump as a priming device, remember that fuel that keeps flowing after a collision or the engine quits is a real fire hazard .
If that doesn't get you going, maybe try a different route but after sitting for three months every engine I've done this to, quickly roars into life again .
Remember : keeping your engine sharply tuned (plenty of older posts on this) will $ave your battery and much aggravation .
cmkruse
Member
Ok Nate, no more starting fluid. I’m going with the primer approach. Now Bill, the pump is rated at less than 2 amp,. I have a 49 with the standard ignition switch. I think it has three terminals on it. Which terminal would I use to power the relay.? The run / on position I assume. I could answer this myself but I don’t have the schematic at hand. My approach will be either to use a momentary switch to power the relay providing power to the pump or straight wire from ign / run to momentary switch providing power to the pump. Haven’t decided yet. You guys have a better recommendation?
Bill Hanlon
Member
Shouldn't need a relay if you are just going to use a push button before you start the engine. Wouldn't even need to hook it to ignition. Tap onto the switch on the starter where the battery connects. Run the wire through an inline fuse rated at 5 amps, then through the push button then to the fuel pump. Hold the push button until you hear the pump quit running, let go of the push button, turn on the key and stomp the starter.
cmkruse
Member
All right Thanks abunch. Now if I can get a loan to buy some gas I'll be all set
Yeah well ,
My daily driving is mostly done with a 38 year old Mercedes Diesel sedan that gets 25 MPG ~ I know that's stupid but I love the darn thing and so far can afford it.....
Today I saw $5.99 / gallon Diesel fuel .
Remember way back when gasoline went up to $1.50 gallon ? . I was incensed and only rode my Motocycle for about a year, this didn't make the wife (ex) very happy....
My daily driving is mostly done with a 38 year old Mercedes Diesel sedan that gets 25 MPG ~ I know that's stupid but I love the darn thing and so far can afford it.....
Today I saw $5.99 / gallon Diesel fuel .
Remember way back when gasoline went up to $1.50 gallon ? . I was incensed and only rode my Motocycle for about a year, this didn't make the wife (ex) very happy....
cmkruse
Member
Here on the east coast regular hit 4.19 yesterday. I'm sure Biden will blame it all on Ukraine war and not their policies. Go figure. this country is in real trouble in my opinion. Any way I have a new challenge for you and Bill. I have two ignition switches one has just two positions and the other has three. They look just alike except one has a single hole for tumbler removal and the other has two pin holes for the tumbler removal. I believe the two-position switch is the correct one for my truck but was wondering what the other one was for. Maybe a later model I guess. I find it strange that the switch would turn to the left to turn on instead of to the right like current vehicles.
Bill Hanlon
Member
I've never seen one with "off" in the CCW position.
cmkruse
Member
Hi guys, don't know who's at fault but I do know they don't have Americas best interest at heart. Enough politics! Anyway, I found a good explanation about the ignition switches over on stovebolters. Seems the three position was for later larger trucks. It also confirmed the counterclockwise position as off on the two position switch. I think I have that right anyway I broke down and checked the owners manual (RTFM) and yep thats what it says. Go figure. If I remember to bring it home I can scan and upload the page. Sometimes these old trucks are a bit different than one expects.
cmkruse
Member
Well I tried to scan this from the owners manual and it came out upside down. but it does say CCW is the off position. Strange too as that makes the key position pointing at the 10 oclock position when the key is off. Live and learn I guess.
cmkruse
Member
Well I finally got the fuel pump installed and tried to use it as a primer but I guess the line has to be purged because it wouldn’t suck any fuel from the tank. I had drained the tank and put fresh fuel in guess the pump doesn’t suck and I ran the battery dead turning the engine over.
cmkruse
Member
Hi Nate, sorry for slow responses. still dealing with chemo treatments. I mounted the fuel pump on the side frame about 18 inches from the tank. I'm unable to get to the truck to get a picture but hopefully sometime in the not to distant future. I'm thinking these low pressure pumps don't have a lot of sucking power but not sure. Anyway this task is on hold till I get past my current health issues.
O.K. Craig ;
Correct, E-Pumps don't suck well, re mount as close as possible for best results .
Sorry to hear you're dealing with the big c, attack it as hard as you can ~ my late father was an Oncologist and the one thing I learned was : kill it or cut it off .
I'm dealing with health issues too, why I'm selling everything off dammit .
Correct, E-Pumps don't suck well, re mount as close as possible for best results .
Sorry to hear you're dealing with the big c, attack it as hard as you can ~ my late father was an Oncologist and the one thing I learned was : kill it or cut it off .
I'm dealing with health issues too, why I'm selling everything off dammit .