Number 1 cylinder making me crazy!!

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Flashlight, Aug 12, 2010.

  1. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Dual intake

    In an earlier post you mentioned dual intake manifold, you havnt got a problem with the manifold not sitting right because its hitting the exhaust manifold? i had to machine a fair bit off my fenton intake cause it was hitting the fenton ex manifolds. Did you make sure the rings were in the head when you fitted the manifold?
     
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Interesting

    FWIW ;

    Sooty spark plug means NO POSSIBLE head gasket leak as coolant in the combustion chanber *instantly* flashes to steam and the plug comes out suspiciosly clean , never sooty .

    NEVER .

    The rotor to terminal contact means either the dizzy shaft is seriously worn out or you have a wrong combination of cap & rotor .

    This one is a serious puzzler , I wish I could justify another anti - hydraulic lifter rant here but I can't (yet :p ) .

    keep us posted , I'm betting it's some too simple to be the problem , problem .
     
  3. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Head gasket

    Nate, ive had head gaskets blow between cyl and not into the coolant side of things,
     
  4. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Yes , just so but then you'd not have a sooty spark plug from the resultant miss....
     
  5. bigtimjamestown

    bigtimjamestown Member

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    So nobody has any thoughts about a valve being too tight and pumping up at higher RPM'S ???????????????? ...........Big Tim :cool:
     
  6. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    My new parts are here. So.. help me with this:confused:. When I go back out to the barn this week, By the way, I put the old dizzy cap on the rebuilt dizzy and it immediately creased the same 2-3 contacts. I'm going to put a new non-creased dizzy cap and rotor in the dizzy from my spare motor. Return the rebuilt dizzy to Advanced auto for off-center problems. Triple check my firing order. I'm going to spray my starter fluid around all the intake surfaces. Brit, I had to grind a bit on my fentons as well.

    Then, remove the valve cover and check all the springs, valve tightness, rocker arms etc. A little sceptical here:D. We will not have toasted the Mechanical God's prior to this operation. Thus ensuring their approval and good spirits with our Jameson's... as Nate suggests:rolleyes:. If anyone has any other suggestions let me know, I'm going to try to do this in as logically as I can.

    Brit, I don't recall any rings, are these on the intake or exhaust? Should that show up as a vacuum leak with my starter fluid? I'll double check with my buddy to see if he remembers putting in manifold rings. Seems i saw some metel rings in the box:eek:!

    Flashlight
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2010
  7. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    The rings go into the head and help line up your intake.
     
  8. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    It must be 5:00 o'clock somewhere!! Finished for the day. Sprayed the starter fluid around...no leaks. Switched out all combo's of wires and plugs...all good. Put in new rotor and cap. Checked the firing order and timing.....right on.

    Pulled the valve cover, loosened the #1 intake valve just a bit...no results, but it was a bit tight. All springs intact. The spring on number #1 intake is compressable by hand...no others are. Tech manual says something like 160-180lbs of compression on an 1 1/2 inch spring. I'm sure its more like 40lbs to compress the spring.

    I can see this head has been reworked, its very clean. The PO has brazed the oiler pipe to the ?rocker arm. Its oiling well though. My buddy says he doesn't see any shims at the base of the springs.

    Your thoughts on how to proceed would be welcomed.

    Flashlight
     
  9. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    looks like you found it

    Looks like your problems been found, weak spring, i think Evan mentioned it earlier
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Weak Valve Springs

    Well ;

    That's it ~

    I hope you're smart enough to replace all of them . if one is worn out , the rest are right behind it .

    A simple valve spring test is to line 'em all up in a row on a flat surface , if even one is shorter or longer , they're all suspect and therefore junk .

    If you're careful and systematic , you can replace all of them , one at a time , without removing the cylinder head .

    I'd take the opportunity to replace all the valve guide umbrella oil seals at the same time .

    The valve train oil overflow pipe was brazed when it was new IIRC .
     
  11. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    I'd like to give a special thanks to all of you for your imput, there are now 2 pages of responses to my problem:). Not only did I learn a lot from you but enjoyed the comradship and it made the problem seem a little lighter.

    I'm not loaded with bucks so I feel that I also saved a few. Even my buddy the master mechanic likes to get your feedback on his ideas. He has even asked me to put in a question or two:D.

    Does anyone have suggestions for ordering springs and other engine parts. I really have gotten some junk at the local flaps lately. I would like to do this just once.

    Sincerely, Flashlight
     
  12. bigtimjamestown

    bigtimjamestown Member

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    You might try Clifford Performance for your springs
     
  13. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Parts

    Eaton makes really good springs and almost the same price as the crappy ones .

    Also , Diamond Springs .

    Flagg makes the shackles & kits .

    Kanter has a lot of vintage car engine parts but for valve springs I'd think Flea-Bay should yield a nice set of N.O.S. ones ~ just made DANG SURE they have no rust ~ not even one tiny red spot .

    The folks here have never let me down with help yet .
     

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