Progress, however slow... but isn't it about the JOURNEY?

Zig, its ALL about the "think time". I would much rather take longer- and do better. Leave the 7 day builds for the TV shows. Cheap Fast Good. Pick any two.
You know, when I pull up in front of your house, I hope you come out with 2 cold beers! Make that 3, YOU'll want one too!
"out slow" I like that! Just ordered some parts tonight- but like always, I'll make you wait to see 'em.
PM me if you need the speedo guts (I might have an 80 too)

 

February was good!
I have some picture-worthy progress.

Front brakes installed (less pads, need to wash rotors). The pads literally drop in, and are contained by the cotter pin. Sweet!

Spacer portion of the spacer/adapters installed. I ended up sending the company the Wilwood hubs so they could machine the spacers for a perfect fit.

Adapter portion installed. They are match-machined, 2 heavy dowel pins to locate, and 6 heavy countersunk flat heads to attach.

Wheel installed. The hub-centric feature fits the wheel perfectly. Also visible is the trial-fit of the hub cap clips, held out to dimension with aluminum spacers. 3 on the wheel right now, but I'll do six. I wanted to try my idea out before I committed to drilling holes in every wheel.

Most of my fuel system showed up. I stuck with 1 brand throughout to minimize the chances of any mismatches. I opted not to use the braided-stainless offerings, the plain black product will work fine. It is rated to 250psi. The filter is a corvette item, it is a filter/regulator to maintain the 58lbs needed.

I also decided an auto-dimming rearview mirror would be a nice touch, this one also features a compass display.

 

Nice, Mike.
Those brakes should bring you back down from 200MPH, nicely.
Are you going to mount that filter/reg. close to the tank, or, engine?

Steve.

 

Steve,
As far as hauling Penny down from 200MPH goes, I think I'd have to drop her out of a cargo plane to get UP to 200MPH... but seeing as the front brakes do about 80% of the work, I think the Hydroboosted-Wilwood's will haul her down quite nicely at the speeds she'll likely see.
On a related note, when I had the driveshaft made, the owner of the company asked "Do you plan on ever taking this vehicle over 100 MPH?" (obviously to design for driveshaft critical-speed) My answer? "Every chance I get!"

The filter/regulator will be mounted as close to the tank as feasible. The L33 (and LM7 too for that matter) run a returnless fuel system, and unless I am trying to win pole-position for the big race, fuel-heating in the single line shouldn't be an issue.

 

DANG, those are some spacers!!!
Glad you're finally seeing it come back together!

 

Zig,
The spacers do look big, BUT... going from the original 14"x7" S10 wheel (with the 195/75 tire) to the 20" x 8" wheel and 245/50 tire only moves the centerline of the tread out ONE INCH. And with the taller tire, the scrub radius should be pretty close to where it was stock. Lots more parts arriving this week, it's like it's my birthday- and I have a rich uncle who likes me!

 

Mike,
The Wix, filter/regulator is already on my list. I see no reason I can't convert my supply/return LQ9, to a simple system with that regulator and short return line.
It appears your using -6AN flex lines all the way forward. Is that correct?
I originally planned to use short sections of flex fuel line, along with stainless hard line for most of the run.
Where did you source your parts? I usually use Summit.

Steve.

 

Steve,
I am using -6 Russell Twist Lok throughout. I had initially planned on flex from tank to filter, hardline from filter to firewall, and flex from firewall to fuel rail. But by the time you adapt in and out of flex a few times, it just made more sense to go flex all the way. Summit was the winner on all the plumbing, although Amazon bested their price on the WIX filt/reg. I routinely compare Jegs/Summit/Amazon, and order accordingly. Summit did have a house-brand of flex similar to the Russell stuff I ended up with, but the reviews online panned it pretty hard.

I assembled my new engine stand today to allow the oil pan change (CTS-V pan, oil pickup, dipstick and related pieces) as soon as it arrives (tomorrow or Friday). Last night I (temporarily) installed the Hydroboost and master cylinder, to get an idea how all the plumbing is going to route. All the Hydroboost lines will be custom, and I plan on doing a layout with rough lengths soon. I'll stop in to the local parts house, and get an idea what it will cost to fab new lines reusing the old fittings. It may end up working out best with all custom braided stainless lines- as there won't be off-the-shelf GM hose assemblies to do the job. I'd like to run the lines inside the frame for neatness, what with it being as open as it is, clamping on the inside won't be an issue. It'll clean up the engine compartment without all the PS lines visible.

I can't help but think to myself, as I systematically check stuff off my list (however slowly) DAMN... I might actually FINISH this thing!

 

Hello all,
I have been quite busy the last month or so.
Got the L33 all cleaned up, almost ready for install

Installed new CTS-V oilpan, and a temp sending unit in an unused spot on the cylinder head.

Also installed the oil pressure sending unit in the oil cooler block-off plate.

Depending on the original application of your LS engine, it can have any one of several oil cooler block-off plates. The one on the right happens to have a blind hole (the tap-drill diameter of 1/8NPT by coincidence) that just needed a quick bore on the drill press, and a tap run thru it to be ready to use.

In a non-emissions installation, you'll need to address the CCP (charcoal canister purge) Solenoid.

I removed it,

and cut the flange off with a hacksaw.

Then inserted a sheet-metal screw in the vacuum port, covered the screw with RTV, and gave it a quick shot of black paint.

In my original engine-location mockup back in February of 2012, the passenger-side coil-pack bracket was pretty close to the firewall.

While I had all of the wiring off the engine for cleaning, I modified the coil-mount bracket for firewall clearance. It just needs a shot of paint.

I also got the tank-to-filter plumbing installed.

 

And what's an update without a little bling?
My new hubcaps arrived mid-week.

 

And more progress, this time on the gauge-face artwork (disregard temporary color scheme, I'll add correct colors before printing). I am looking into having the artwork printed directly onto .040 Aluminum.
For some reason, I can't insert the jpeg...

 

Thanks, Mike, for all the up-close, detailed pictures.
This is what we like, good photographic show-and-tell.
I'm sort off envying that aluminum block...
I also like the '46 hub-capped wheels. Only thing is, once snapped in place, they look like they might be difficult to get back off.
As I've said previously, we will need video of the first fire-up.
Your using some stock exhaust manifolds, right?

Steve.

 

Steve,
Don't get the popcorn ready for the startup video just yet. Have you ever looked at all the progress you've made on a project, only to realize there's LOTS more? Yeah, me too.
The nice thing about (Zig) forcing me to take progress pictures, is I have amassed quite a photo album of sorts (166 pictures and counting- not counting all the disassembly pics- they are on a different computer).

My weight-conscious build should make Penny do everything better- (and the L33 was a BARGAIN from the junkyard), and I have all the accessories from the LM7 to complete the package.

As far as the hubcaps go, when I sized the spacers to hold the hubcap clips, I left them a little "tall" so I can get a tool in there for cap removal. The mockup wheel only has 3 clips. Once I do the first wheel with all 6, if the cap is a little loose being stood off the wheel, I can shorten the spacers to hold the cap snug. Removal really isn't any different on the 20" wheel than it is on the original 16". I am happy with the look.

And yes, stock manifolds. Although it looks like modifications are in order for the drivers side manifold. The stock configuration kicks out (toward the frame rail in my build- but maybe not w/ a stock frame), so I will be doing surgery on it. Just add that to the list!

 

And those are some mighty fine update photos there, Mike!
You must be getting more excited about the progress than ever before! (no matter HOW slow)
What next?
BTW, I'd tell you how many miles I have driven my truck, but the speedometer still isn't working. I'm driving it anyway.

 

Zig, the miles don't matter. That you are DRIVING it does. Bugs on the windshield. There is no more credibility than that.

What is next you ask? Well, I have been spending a LOT of time sitting in front of the computer, laying out gauge faces in CAD. A LOT of time. Who knew?

After that, I am thinking pull engine/trans, run brake lines, maybe run Hydroboost lines inside frame, reinstall Aluminum engine and trans (final?!)

 

Good luck with the gauges. I still need to get back under the frickinfrackin dash to get the dingdang fuel frickin gauge to work! And the speedometer!
Neither one keeps me from driving, but it sure would be nice to know what those two gauges will read.

 

Wow , lots and lots of really good works done here .

 

You know... I haven't seen a 1953, Penny, in a long, LONG, time...

I wonder....Do they even still exist?

Steve.

 

To show what Mike has remedied in track width here are some photos of the problem. His spacers are much more thought out than mine and his photography is ten times better.
First shows factory tire/wheel center line is exactly in line with center of head light.
Second shows position on stock S10 hub
Third shows mock spacer: 3/4 board + 1 1/2 board for 2 1/4 total
Fourth is on S10 with the 2.25 spacer---perfect

 

Doesn't that put a lot more load on the outer wheel bearing than without the spacer Evan?