Questions about a C10/C20 before starting

[nelson-ohio]

I'm buying a 1965 C10, but I believe the frame was replaced with a C20 frame sometime ago. It currently has drum all the way around, no PS, PB. I plan on putting PS on, which should be relatively straight forward.

1- I have never driven anything with all drum and no PB, is it really more difficult to stop? I don't really want to change the front to disc, I think you have to change out a lot of parts, not just changing the spindle and put on a disc conversion kit. I don't really want to do that at this point. So if I just add PB but leave the drum all the way around, is it really that bad? I know changing the shoes can be a pain, but does it make that much difference in stopping power?

2 - Also, anyone has suggestions for seats? I want to replace the bench seat with 2 seats with a center console. The current bench seat is about 59" wide, what year/model seats people have found to work well? I know it's probably a personal preference, but some feedback would not hurt. Once I get a few suggestions, I can call around salvage yard and see what's available. Does anyone need a bench seat in very good condition?

More questions later when I sort things out.

 

[Lakeroadster]

I have the stock four wheel drums and 6 lug wheels on my '65 C10. I learned to drive and spent my teenage years driving a four wheel drum non power brake Chevy Nova. So for me, they are acceptable because I drive accordingly.

Power drum brakes will reduce the amount of pressure you have to apply with your leg muscles to stop the truck. It will not make the truck stop any better.

Disc brakes are better, but not a necessity, IMO.

Again, drive accordingly.

 

[nelson-ohio]

Drum vs. disc

So mostly likely it means you need to start stopping sooner when you run all drum.

How do I confirm if it's a C20 frame, not a C10 frame and someone just changed everything to a 8 lug wheel setup? Or is the C20 frame the same as a C10 just the suspension parts are different? Anyone has any ideas? If the C10 LWB frame is exactly the same as a C20 LWB, I can find C10 parts and change it back, right?

Anyone has experience with this? I can post some pictures once the truck is here.

 

[Lakeroadster]

Most C10 / C20 Chevrolet trucks of this era, 63-72, had coil spring suspensions front and rear. I believe you said yours had rear leaf springs? (I apologize in advance, I may be confusing your truck with one on another site). That was an option for the C10 / C20 but is pretty rare. The K series 4 x 4's had leaf springs.

If it has rear coil springs the trailing arms on the C20's had reinforcing plates on the top and bottom of the trailing arms, C10's did not. Post up some photos of the trailing arms.

Take a look at the cab mounts on the frame, maybe post up some photos of them. Do they look like factory welds?

Were you able to find the factory stamped partial VIN on the drivers side frame rail in the engine compartment, just forward of where the front suspension cross member attaches to the frame?

Do the upper control arms have bushings in the shafts that attach them to the frame, or are they solid steel with no bushings? Again, post up some photos.

 

[Rich 5150 69]

C-20`s were all eight lug....!

 

[nelson-ohio]

some pictures

I didn not find any VIN on the frame. Here are some pictures. There does not appear to be any bushing in the shaft of the upper control arm, each end of the shaft as a zerk fitting as well.

The cab mount seems to be rivited on, not welded on, not sure if that's how it should be.

See the picture of the passenger side rear leaf section.

 

[Lakeroadster]

Cab mounts were riveted from the factory. Rubber bushings on yours look pretty new.

I don't see anything scary based on the photo's. What's your plans for the truck?

 

[nelson-ohio]

so many ideas

I want to make this into something I can drive on a regular bases, and can haul things with. Give it a paint job myself, doing the best I can without spending too much time．The only sheet metal missing is the passenger side bed panel with wheel well.

My main concern now is which frame this really is. If it is a C20 then I need to make sure any parts I get will fit the C20 frame, unless the C10 parts will fit on a C20 frame. Not sure if anyone can confirm.

I would like it to have disc in the front, but I guess it's not a must. I do want to get it done by next spring so I can drive it, so I have pick what I want to get done.

I don?t think any C10 front end would fit a C20 frame, I think there are many later year models that would fit a C20, but I don?t want to have to spend all the time rebuilding it. I did find a 1983 C20 he is parting out, he will take out the front end and sell it for $250, it has disc. From what I have read, it will be a very close to a direct fit. Not sure if $250 is a good price or not. It has 6 lugs, can it be changed to 8 easily?

AC will be nice to have, but costly, have to watch my budget as well.

Got a source for a 350 crate engine, seller said it has about 10,000 miles on it, needs cleaned up and put all the parts on.

Thinking about changing the bench seat to bucket seats, again will depend on time and money. The current bench seat is in very good shape.

Changing the tank to rear mount, but if I keep the bench seat, maybe I will just leave it as is. The sending unit is new, so is the gas line. Hate to replace all these new parts.

Break line is all new as well. PO did all these over the last 6 years, but lost interest. I have a picture of it in the PO?s garage.

Whenever you get something like this, there are just so many things that go through your mind, all the ideas. I have to keep it realistic, both in terms of time and budget. I will try to make a decision in the next 3 weeks.

 

[nelson-ohio]

I think I got most of the parts to go with the truck

I think most of the parts are with the truck, but will need many small items. Also some items I may purchase new to replace instead of repairing or reconditioning.

The hood is in very good condition, 2 front fenders said to be original GM NOS, they do look very heavy duty. It has GMC front grille, I kind like the dual lights, has GMC tail gate as well.

 

[Lakeroadster]

Lots of ways to go. Once you solidify what your vision is for the truck in regard to brakes, suspension (lowered or stock height) and hauling / towing capacity then that will pretty much dictate your path moving forward.

 

[nelson-ohio]

Made some decision

OK, I have decided to change the front to disc, figured that will be best no matter what I do with this truck in the future. I want to keep it as stock height, I like how it sits with the big tires, I think I can fit 31" tires in no problem.

The rest I will keep as simple as possible. No AC, I can do without it. No new seats, use the very good condition bench it came with. No fuel tank mod, it is in very good condition with new sending unit and fuel line.

So a few questions on the front end options:
- 1 see there is a kit from Performance On Line (https://www.performanceonline.com/63-70-chevy-gmc-c20-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-deluxe-8-lug/) suppose to be a conversion kit. However, several posts I have read says you can not simply convert a 65 front drum to disc, you have to swap out the whole front with a later year model, like a 70 or later. So I'm a little confused on this point. Has anyone used this conversion kit on a 65 C20 or C10? The price is not cheap, but if it really works well and a perfect fit, I would consider it.

- If I do need to do a front end swap, anyone knows how well a 1983 C20 front would work with a 1965? I believe it will fit, just wondering if anyone has done it and how many holes you will have to drill. Would the power steering link work the same as well?

 

[Rich 5150 69]

Nelson your best bet for disc conversion, any `73 to `87 Chevy or GMC donor truck c-20 that will be eight lug, grab entire front crossmember as a unit, ( that will imclud spindles a-arms, rotors, caliphers, and maybe wheels ) eight bolts hold in on the frame, its fits yours bolt for bolt except two you`ll have to redrill your frame, you`ll see it when you install, also master cylinder/booster proportioning valve, brake lines, you will need to pull your motor out as the engine mounts are bolted to the crossmember....!