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rear ends

psy999

psy999

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Cheyenne Wyoming
Been thinking about my current "three on the tree" transmission and upgrades. I've done a search here and the Stovebolt website and am considering the T-5 transmission swap, which of course means I need an "open" rear end to replace the current closed tube rear end in my 1949 1/2 ton.

Crawling around the one and only auto parts yard around here that has old trucks, I find a single TF truck that is pretty stripped but still has the rear axel. Looks like a 1/2 but can't tell for sure, there were some signs that somebody might have tried to rebuild the truck in more recent years before it ended up in the junkyard. However, the wheels on the axle have five lugs instead of the six lugs on my 1/2 ton.

Is this the stock axle for the truck or has somebody already swapped axles?

If it is the stock axle, does anyone know if I can simply swap the "pumpkin" from this axle into my 1949 axle (thereby achieving the open end drive shaft I need for the T-5 transmission while still keeping 6 lug wheels)?

I know there are other options for axles, just exploring the possibilities.

Thanks

Dave
 
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The TF 1/2 ton trucks came with the same 6 lug pattern that is on the AD half tons. This rear axle is either not original to the TF (most likely) or is original and had the flanges redrilled to a 5 lug pattern (not likely). In either case the center section would not drop into your AD rear axle.
 
Same boat

Dave, Of course putting a pumpkin in would be to simple. (Even for these old trucks.) (And even though pumpkin day is right around the corner.) I have it on good authority that even if there was a pumkin that would fit, the way the axle is mounted to the springs, when you step on the gas, the axle will roll downward, and then ya gots trouble... If my info is wrong, then there will be TWO happy campers! We're both looking for the same thing though, so if I find out what we can use, I'll let you know! I'm looking at Chassis Engineering's "bolt-on" complete rear end mounting kit. (My appologies to the fine folk who provide this web page, but you don't offer this item- just the weld-on kit) (And I'm no welder.) (yet) It seems as though you just get rid of the stuff that comes with you new axle, and grab a wrench and start bolting. Yeah right. You might check it out. I've tried calling, but unlike CP, the line is always buisy. They may have only one phone? On a post about s-10 swaps, they had something about the 4WDs having the right width axle AND disc brakes to boot. You could always make your front end a 5 lug with a CP conversion. (Like I'll use!:D ) Let's see who figures this out first!

By the way, TF = totally fried? AD= almost done? You guys and your intials... at least I know "CP" =^)
 
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I'm not all that up to snuff on the 53, this is my first. My knowledge is mostly in late 60s and 70s, but a 1980 camaro rear end is what we put in the BOOPS truck. It was relatively easy to connect right up. The shock mounts presented no problem, nor the brake lines and the width was just right. (also has 5 bolts). Now if you are wanting to stay original, I have 2 whole drivelines,,, which need lots of TLC!!!. I didn't have the money to go with a aftermarket add on so that is why I used what I did. You'all may be way ahead of me on drivelines but I also found a neet multi sized ujoint that I didn't know was made, it let me go from one size cups to a larger wider cup.

opps, I guess i'm revealing my shade tree mechanic skills and knowledge.

the BOOPS dad:rolleyes:
 
Thanks Bill, that confirms my suspicion that it wasn't the stock axle. Wouldn't you know the only 50's chevy pickup in a junkyard around here has already been hot rodded!

I know what you mean Zig, Art Deco, Advance Design, Task Force, First Series/Second Series, hard to keep it all straight! If you haven't already done it, might try a search at the Stovebolt.com site on rear end swaps, although most of the information can actually be found when searching posts on the T-5 transmission swap.

I'm told that a 1955-62 chevy 1/2 ton axle will have "swapable" pumpkins. With any swap resulting in an open end, we'll either have to weld on new "perches" on the axle to mount to the springs or go to more exotic suspensions, all of which can be purchased at Chevy Duty and others. Personally I'm going the "weld on new perches" route when/if I do this, pretty straight forward as long as you can weld. I will probably just swap the entire axle rather than the pumpkin as long as I am able to retain the stock parking brake system. Steppenwood on the Stovebolt forum shows a comprehensive set of pictures of his transmission/rear end swap for those interested

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/steppenwood/my_photos

*he is using a 216 engine in an art deco truck, a little more complicated than the swap in a Advance Design truck.

Dave
 
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Thanks for the site, Dave! I'm all about "show me!" (I guess I live close enough to Missouri) That's truely an option, it just has that "weld" word attached. My only hang-up with that is the article I read a couple months back in "Cusom Classic Trucks". It was about a similar conversion called "Loose the Tube, gain a 'Tude". The thing that killed me was the part about welding causes the axle housing to warp, thus the need to take it in to get it straightened when you're done becomes an unavoidable add-on. Those that I've talked to that have welded on their rear ends (boy, did THAT come out wierd...) never mention that they took this step. It gives me hope that I could do this (I'm a fast learn and hey, I did take a seventh grade industrial arts class...many years ago... ) Sooo, that's why I'm curious about this "bolt-on" back end from CE. No welding? I can follow directions, and I can bolt! Thanks for your input Boopster! You had to redo the perches also, right? (spring width and all...)
 
Please allow me to chime in. In 1985, I welded up the spring perches on my truck (1950 3100)and installed a (I believe) 1955'ish pumpkin, small block chevy with auto, bolted it all up and drove the heck out (lot's of passes down the 1/4 mile) of it until 1991, when I parked my truck. I did not have any problems with the rearend. This rearend is still in my truck today, huck brakes and all! although I am still looking for the parking brake thing-a-ma jigs.

Pictures to follow. (need to jack up truck, alittle to round in the middle to slide under:D )

Mike
 
Thanks for chiming! Would you say the steps you took were like the site (see psy999) that shows the pumpkin swap/welding perches? Also, did you stick the eight in with original front end and original steering? I have a nearly new 350 and auto trans (I assume a 350 also) in my van (thats body is falling apart daily) waiting to be placed between the rails of my '54's frame. Thanks Big Mike for the info and pictures to come. In the mean time I've started taking my frame down to shiney metal and then covering it back up again- with of course- a rattle can!:D
 
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I still have the solid front axle in the truck, although now it has disc brakes and rack and pinion steering. Originally, I left the stock steering box in, but moved it back and out alittle because I used headers. From what the guys on this site have said, you can use ram horn style exhaust manifolds and leave the steering box in the original location.

In those pictures, they cut off the original spring perches and welded in new style. I used the original style and welded them so they couldn't move. In doing this, make sure (damn sure)the welds are solid! You do not want the welds breaking on you cause that will cause all kinds of unwanted mayhem.

here are the pictures, although they are alittle bit on the grungy side, I'm working my way to the back of the truck.

Mike
 

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Outstanding!!! Thanks so much for the time it took you to get these photos AND post them! That's something I need to learn/try to do here so I can post where my rig is. (I have a GREAT "kids" photo!) I wonder why no one has ever mentioned this solution before? I'm assuming that the pinion angle was okay. When you post a reply, you loose the other posts, but I believe you said you had a 350/350? When you bolt the engine transmission in, you can tweak the angle if the rear end is off just a tad? Anyway- GREAT photos! (A picture is worth a thousand words!) But why the heck is the drive shaft out of it and your not wearin' down those meats on the back?!:(
Have I mentioned how much I appreciate this site and all those who share their knowledge?:)
 
At the time I welded the rearend, I didn't know any better (young). If, I had to do it all over again, I would install a different rear end. This set-up worked great, but I'm sure it wasn't the smartest thing to do.

The old small block was a 327. Loved that engine, lots of power. Had a turbo 350 with shift kit. Could break the tire loose at a whim :D. Most of the tread from those tires is up under the rear fenders.

It now has a little 283/turbo 350. I'm at an age where, been there, done that. Now I want to cruise :cool:. .


Mike
 
Hey Mike don't underestimate the potential of a 283. This motor was indestructable and with the right parts you can build almost as much H.P. as a 350. Torque is another subject but H.P. can almost be matched.
 
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