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Rear Gears for 1950 3600 3/4 ton

The Right Attitude

destryrideagain said:
haha thanks, i went on a wild goose chase with my gpa this last weekend because I got happy that i found a G30 van, so we drove about 54 miles to Odessa, MO got all our tools together and hopped under this 1 ton and noticed immediately it was not the right housing! yikes, i shouldve guessed for a 1995 G30, but i crawled through the tall grass and had a good time anyway.
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Is what you're showing here ! :D I always find the best stuff surrounded by mouse holes (hanta v*rus) and black widow spiders (just squish 'em with your thumb) , hornets & yellow jackets (mean ba$tards ~ be careful !) and just go to it.....
 
I did the same thing to my 53 3600 as hardcrab and it has also worked out great for me. The only thing I wanted to add was that I was able to get what they called a "conversion joint" for the rear u-joint on the drive shaft so it bolted the stock drive shaft to the S-10 rear end.Good Luck with your project! Have Fun!
 
Where did you get the 'Conversion Joint' you mention? Sounds like something a lot of us could maybe use. Oh wait..... never mind, I see it's for a 3600.... Duh.
 
I got the conversion joint at our local drive line shop here in town. I took the rear half of my drive shaft in thinking I would have to have a new end welded on but they went over to the shelf and grabbed the u joint and said that this would work fine and is alot cheaper. It was a little more than a regular u joint but alot cheaper than having you drive shaft cut and new end welded on.
 
I'm Sorry

I don't know the correct axle code .

if you count the bolts and they match m you're almost there ~ now yank the pumpkin out and count the axle splines , if they match and it's the ratio you want (stamped into the edge of the ring gear) , you're golden .

A PIA to be sure but being a poorboy that's how it goes .
 
Destry

Try Jim Smart Used Trucks in KC, KS 913-321-6609. When I was still working ( retired 6 yrs ago ) They bailed me out several times. You might also check with Inland Truck Parts on troost downtown, but ask for one of the old guys in the shop. You could also try Precision Built Parts they used to be on grand downtown.

Jim
 
destryrideagain said:
I like the idea of finding one of those older g30 van pumpkins. I was back home in Kansas City for awhile but now im back in the mountains and I spent alittle bit of time searching but couldnt find anything. I looked for a rear shop in KC but didn't find one, maybe i didnt look hard enough! My search continues. Nate do you see those g30 vans alot? EDIT: Also Thank you everyone for your highly valued input!
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Even tho you are not local here try calling the guys at Hoopers and ask Questions about your truck, they just mite have what you need or know where to get it. You can talk to either Tony or Dave.
I would use them again but would demand they keep my windows up if the truck had to stay over night so the damn cat does not piss in it.
 
Personal good afternoon
I'm from Brazil and also looking for a way to change the relation back of my pickup but would love to keep the original differential housing.
Someone found a set of gear and pinion that is compatible with the housing of the differential?
Thank you.
 
cool deal!

hardcrab said:
FWIW- I have the same truck- '50 3600 with original drive line-

My primary goals were:

1. improved brakes front and rear, since I also wanted

2. increased highway speed if needed

and lastly

3. matching 6 lug wheels on all 4 corners ( I went with 15" to keep costs down)

I got a 3.42 rear axle from an S-10 4x4 (width fits better than a 4x2) with newer drum brakes (disc brakes are available but the local yard only had one with drums), then found a 1/2 ton (happened to be a '53) front axle for the front. I then put a disc brake kit on the front and a new master cylinder with booster- I still have the original transmission in place.

I couldn't be happier with this set up. Truck drives 65-70 if need be, brakes are great- my wife will now drive it- she wouldn't before due to "holding everybody else up" at 45 mph, and distrust of the old brakes. It made a world of difference and the truck still looks pretty much stock. I did loose a bit of height due to the wheel/tire size I chose- it just wasn't worth the extra expense for taller wheels and tires to me. I'm sure there are many other ways to accomplish this, but this is what worked for me and was pretty easy and inexpensive to accomplish. We've driven "Ernest" more this year than the previous 4 years we've had him due to these changes.

The only snafu was I ended up having to get different wheel offsets for the front and rear since the axle widths are a little bit different. I may have been ok with leaving them the same but I wanted the front and rear tires to fit the same in the fender. No big deal, but you may could find a rear that fits a little closer.

If you get a "new" half ton axle, go ahead and replace the king pins while it's out- It'd be a little easier access.
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That's music to my ears! Thanks for posting that. Switching the back end is a bit easier, as well. (I think.)
 
1st gear~

hardcrab said:
FWIW- I have the same truck- '50 3600 with original drive line-

My primary goals were:

1. improved brakes front and rear, since I also wanted

2. increased highway speed if needed

and lastly

3. matching 6 lug wheels on all 4 corners ( I went with 15" to keep costs down)

I got a 3.42 rear axle from an S-10 4x4 (width fits better than a 4x2) with newer drum brakes (disc brakes are available but the local yard only had one with drums), then found a 1/2 ton (happened to be a '53) front axle for the front. I then put a disc brake kit on the front and a new master cylinder with booster- I still have the original transmission in place.

I couldn't be happier with this set up. Truck drives 65-70 if need be, brakes are great- my wife will now drive it- she wouldn't before due to "holding everybody else up" at 45 mph, and distrust of the old brakes. It made a world of difference and the truck still looks pretty much stock. I did loose a bit of height due to the wheel/tire size I chose- it just wasn't worth the extra expense for taller wheels and tires to me. I'm sure there are many other ways to accomplish this, but this is what worked for me and was pretty easy and inexpensive to accomplish. We've driven "Ernest" more this year than the previous 4 years we've had him due to these changes.

The only snafu was I ended up having to get different wheel offsets for the front and rear since the axle widths are a little bit different. I may have been ok with leaving them the same but I wanted the front and rear tires to fit the same in the fender. No big deal, but you may could find a rear that fits a little closer.

If you get a "new" half ton axle, go ahead and replace the king pins while it's out- It'd be a little easier access.
Click to expand...

I'm planning on putting in a 6 lug rear that is almost identical in width. 373. I do have a question about that first gear~ How's it work? Do you start in second, or can you get some distance out of 1st with that ratio?
Just palnning for the future... :cool:
 
great question Zig!!! I was wondering the same thing.

As I sit right now I can easily start out in 3rd;) So I have hi and low:)
 
I only use 1st if I'm on a significant hill or if the motors not warmed up yet. It's pretty flat where we live. You don't go far or fast in 1st gear!!

Otherwise I just start off in 2nd gear, just like with the old original diff. Doesn't feel even close to lugging doing this ('62 235 motor). I doubt that I could easily start in 3rd though.

The only other thing I still need to do in regards to this modification is get a speedo ratio adaptor- The speedometer runs about 20% low with this set up. I've pretty much gotten used to it, but my wife might forget if she's driving.......
 
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