Rust problem

Discussion in 'Paint & Body' started by Bubbas 73 Chevy, Nov 20, 2006.

  1. Bubbas 73 Chevy

    Bubbas 73 Chevy Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Golden, CO
    73 chevy with a 350 engine. floor board on passenger side rusted and driver side rusted through completely. whats the best way to fix it?

    e-mail me at chevy-bigblock@hotmail.com
     
  2. hank hamm

    hank hamm Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2006
    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    richardson,tx
    rust

    the only complete fix is cut out rust and weld (mig) in replacement panels
     
  3. drabo

    drabo Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2003
    Messages:
    759
    Location:
    Patrick AFB, Florida
    Take a look at the POR 15 floor board kit. If the holes are small it might work for you.
     
  4. OLDIRON69

    OLDIRON69 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2007
    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Ben Wheeler, Tx

    Ditto, replace with new metal and let it flash rust and POR 15 the entire area. I have a couple 2"x1" patches to do myself, I use an industrial rust converter myself. It's not POR 15, but it does the trick.
     
  5. Joesgarage

    Joesgarage Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2007
    Messages:
    12
    If your going to get replacment panels get the panels first before you do any cutting.Don't want ya to be beating your head on the fender cause ya cut too much out.Some like to butt weld and others overlap a 1/4"
    Steve
     
  6. redbeast

    redbeast Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Messages:
    17
    I just did my floors and rocker panels on my '77 K5. Originally a Tennesee truck, so the bottom was all rusted out. I got my panels from LMCTruck.com
    there are a few other places that carry pretty much the same panels - Classic Parts and Classic Industries. I'd get the catalogs from each if I were you. What one place doesn't carry the other will. Sometimes all you need is a small 'patch panel' for $20.00 from one place, instead of the entire floor panel $70.00 from another provider - They don't all carry the same lines.

    Some of the panels may not match exactly as in my case with the LMC parts. I bought the front cab floor section and the rear cab floor section. They didn't line up and I had to get creative with the cutoff tool and the mig welds.
    If you don't have an air compressor / cut off tool, get you a 'Roto-Zip' electrical power cutoff tool - It saved me hours of work. ( Sears also sells this tool under their brand name) My compressor ain't big enough to run some of my air tools effectively.

    I also used an auto part "rust converter" liquid which works pretty well - It's some mix of the original "ospho" liquid from years back. This stuff is thicker so it sticks better and doesn't run off fast. The metal will all turn black by the next morning. - no rust!

    If you can't afford any of the tools or processes listed above, then buy the panels, cut them, and pop-rivet them in place from the inside of the floor ( if it's not too big a hole) then put rust converter all over the top & bottom and Black Silicone all the metal edges - top & bottom. The carpeting will hide a multitude of sins. - I know the purists all all cringing about now - "blasphemer !" - but you do what you can with what ya got! ...and don't let the "holier than thou's" get you down.
    Hope this helped you some. I wish someone gave me this info before I did mine, it would have saved me some money and trouble.
     

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