I used the original hole in frame i just had to make it 1/16" bigger. The only hole i had to move was where the steering column went through the cab floorboard. Yes i did the disc brake conversion using the stock spindles on a straight axle and i am very pleased with results. I highly recommend a remote brake resevoir because the top of the M/C will not line up with the access hole in the floorboard,unless you want to use a turkey baster to fill the M/C and thats a pain.If you have any questions let me know Bobby
Steve: I'd like to get a little telephone time to talk with you about the Toyota swap. I will be starting that swap next week on my '57 GMC 1/2 ton and am intrigued by your statement about mounting the box in the stock position. You have your Private Messages turned off, so if you are willing, please let me know how to contact you. I can be reached after 6 central time at 713-468-6417.
Steering Bobby and Bill, I knew the existing hole could be used but was concerned with not following the directions. You would think CPP would have checked this out prior to requesting the new whole drilled 1.3/4 inched closer to the cab. Bill I would check (I will also turn on my PM messages). I think if there are no problems would use the existing hole. Regarding the brake cable, I did not want the cable to rub the frame, looks like you solved that. I too will be adding the dis with existing spindles., Bobby your truck looks clean. Bill I think Bobby using the exinting hole may have a better application. keeping the integerty of the frame a little stronger.
My GMC frame doesn't look exactly like the Chevy frame picture CPP had in their (very sparse) documentation. The GMC frame "humps" up a little over the stock steering box position, so I am doubtful that the measurement that CPP gives is correct for my frame. Also, the "existing hole" that they use for the side-of-frame mounting point for the bracket CPP supplies does exist on the GMC frame.
I apologize for jumping in here gents but would mounting the box closer to cab (new hole) make it better or worse for header clearance?
If I could do it over again I would use the existing hole, wonder why it wasent engineered that way? (I can/will weld my hole up) I think for me it would have made header clearance worse. Right now I have over an inch. But some other headers, (mine have the built in 90) may work. Rear dump type etc., and don’t worry about jumping in, It’s all good.
Depends on the header or manifold.I raised my motor a bit for clearance on the gearbox,my mistake was i didn't have the fittings in the gearbox when i mocked everything up.I wish i had raised up the motor up another 1/2 "for better clearance on the fittings ,but i did find a fitting that helped the issue and have no problems with overheating p/s fluid.Moving the box back may have been an option i just never considered an alternate installation.I think by moving the box back would change the angle of the column .That angle may require a u-joint instead of a rag joint or straight coupler.I used a u-joint on mine for the safety factor.If you guys need more pictures let me know the garage is only few steps away. Bobby
Steve, I don't know what cpp did since i did mine.(about a year and a half ago) But my install was pretty straight forward using the existing hole.And by the way your private messages still don't work. Bobby
Bobby: Your frame seems to have the same hump in it over the stock steering box that my GMC has, but NOT flat like the picture presented by CPP here: http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/5559PSK-T.pdf Also, my GMC frame doesn't have the "factory hole" as seen in figure 4, so I am concerned about placement of the CPP bracket. I'd really like to use the stock hole (after enlarging it), but I have a few questions. 1. What did you do to get the proper length on the drag link once you moved the steering box forward 1 5/8" of where CPP said to put it? I don't want to just clock the pitman arm around towards the back of the truck because that would allow less "linear" travel turning right than turning left. It would seem to me that the right answer would be to shorten the drag link by 1 5/8". Or maybe even use a stock drag link? 2. My GMC has a stock 347" GMC (Pontiac) engine. The left side exhaust manifold dumps down between #1 and #3 plug, so I don't think I have to worry about interfeerence. Any thoughts? 3. How did you enlarge the hole through the frame for the sector shaft? Steve: Bobby isn't the only one that can't PM you.
Looking at there instructions what i've noticed first is the bracket that bolts to the frame is completely different.The bracket in there picture shows a stamped piece of steel that bolts to the frame.My thinking in there changing the bracket and moving the box back was for clearance for headers and the p/s steering fittings.If you look at one of the last picts i posted with a bare chassis you'll see the bracket that bolted to the frame is a 1"x2" piece of flat bar welded into a V shape.2 of the 3 holes on the side of the frame rail are used to hold the bracket in place,then drill for new holes in the bottom of the rail so the bracket will be secure on 2 surfaces.So they must have done a revision since i purchased mine.Bill if you like i can give you a call if if you want to talk about this over the phone tommorrow just let me know when.Glad to help you guys any way i can. Bobby
Phone call would be good. After 6 central time. I'd be glad to do it on my dime or call me at 713-468-6417. I'm wondering if the pictures CPP pointed me to were from the 53-56 Ford truck kit that they also have that uses the Toyota box?? It uses a V shaped bracket. My bracket sounds like yours Bobby. By the way, a black and white copy of that sheet http://www.classicperform.com/Instru.../5559PSK-T.pdf was the only instructions included in my kit. I thought someone (Bobby or Steve) mentioned a template that was used to mark hole position. I didn't get one. I am replacing a power steering system (GM 800 box, mounted outside the frame and forward of the axle) on my GMC that I bought from Brothers (who knows who actually made it) that failed (luckily at very low speed) when the 7/16"x20 grade 8 bolts that held the steering arm (new from Brothers) to spindle pulled out of the steering arm. The bolt threads seem to still be in pretty good shape, the threads in the arm have pulled out. I was never happy with the bump steer that this system had, nor the fact that right turn radius was limited by the inside of the left tire touching the steering box. I've had the disk brake conversion on my truck for 15 years. Best thing I every did to it. I am keeping my original stock column, cut off and with the shaft modified to a 3/4" DD size for a u-joint. I won't know if I'll just need a single 3/4"DD to 11/16" 36 spline to connect the column to the box, or if I will need a little more length until I decide where to mount the box.
Hey guys, The Ford kit still use the steel rectangle tube still listed on their (CPP) web site, where the Chevy has that press or molded steel type. Bobby, I think yours is in a better position then mine.
59 Apache Harrison heater decal Does anyone know where I can get a replacement decal for my original Harrison recirculating heater in my 1959 Apache? The original decal was scraped off when the interior was repainted. I greatly appreciate any assistance. Rod
