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steering box
- Thread starter 62gmc4x4
- Start date
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Dec-13-01 AT 07:34 PM (CST)]Hey 62...
What steering box do you have? My truck is a 64 Chevy, manual box, Saginaw w/casting #5695242. My Chevy manual covers the 2 wheel drive steering box, but has little detail regarding the 4x4s. (I have found a couple of places that say they can rebuild my box if I send it to them. One's here in California and the other was in Florida I think. I'll look up their addresses and send it to you if interested.)
On my box the adjustment screw / lock nut faces the frame so it has to be unbolted before you can access it. Maybe an old Chilton's manual might have more detail, I'll stop by the Library to see if they have an old book.
How's the frame, does yours have any stress cracks originating from the bolt holes? This appears to be a common problem on these 4x4s.
If you've got a picture of your truck send it my way... There appears to be very little info out there on the 60-66 GM 4x4 trucks so I'm thinkin about possibly starting a web page and would like to include some trucks.
64K10
What steering box do you have? My truck is a 64 Chevy, manual box, Saginaw w/casting #5695242. My Chevy manual covers the 2 wheel drive steering box, but has little detail regarding the 4x4s. (I have found a couple of places that say they can rebuild my box if I send it to them. One's here in California and the other was in Florida I think. I'll look up their addresses and send it to you if interested.)
On my box the adjustment screw / lock nut faces the frame so it has to be unbolted before you can access it. Maybe an old Chilton's manual might have more detail, I'll stop by the Library to see if they have an old book.
How's the frame, does yours have any stress cracks originating from the bolt holes? This appears to be a common problem on these 4x4s.
If you've got a picture of your truck send it my way... There appears to be very little info out there on the 60-66 GM 4x4 trucks so I'm thinkin about possibly starting a web page and would like to include some trucks.
64K10
monster truck
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I have a 1962 3/4 ton 4x4 also, tell you what I did. There is a large nut around the input shaft with an even larger lock nut around that nut. Loosen the lock nut, hammer and punch worked for me, tighten the input shaft endplay nut just enough to take out the free play, not too tight. It is possible some wear is on the shaft or bearings and this should help, but not a permant fix. If you tighten the bearing preload nut too tight, it will be even harder to steer. Hope this helps! By the way, you said you got some 39.5 rubbers on the ground? What type of lift kit you got and where did you get? I have 33x12.50x16.5, on my rig, got good ground and fender clearance for these. What you done gone and done?
it had a four inch frame and three inch body lift when i got it. sorry i don't where you can get either. you could try blocks for the frame and hockey pucks for the body. the 39.5's barely clear. i just put them on and am having serious vibration problems at about 30 mph. that's why i'm looking to tighten the steering. thanks for the help
62...
Here's the url for company in San Jose, Ca.
http://www.straightlinesteering.com/
Note: I have not done business with them, so this isn't an endorsement for them. Still looking for the info on the company back East.
The adjustment "Monster" is talking about is the "worm bearing adjustment". The other adjustment is for the "pitman shaft".
I would recommend that before you make any adjustments that you mark (scribe) the current position of your pitman arm and pitman shaft so you have a reference. Also have your front wheels straight, jack up the front and put jack stands under the alxe. Remove the left tire for easier access.
1)Remove the pitman arm from the steering box. Make sure the steering box bolts are tight.
2)Turn the steering wheel slowly from one side to the other. DON'T BANG IT OR FORCE IT, CAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE THE BOX!!!
3)If it feels rough when turning the steering wheel, that usually means the parts in the box are worn or faulty. If it's hard to turn or binding it's probably excessive worm bearing adjustment or the steering shaft (column) is mis-aligned.
4)Turn the wheel gently all the way to the left (or right). This takes the box off the "high point load".
5)With a spring scale (I've used a light, 0-25Lbs, fishing spring scale, also useful when setting up the pre-load on the steering knuckles)measure the pull required to keep the wheel in motion. Light duty boxes should be in a range of about 1/2 to 3/4 lbs. Heavy duty boxes about 1-1/2 to 2 lbs. Note: adjustments made with the correct lube installed.
6)Loosen the worn bearing adjuster lock nut and turn the adjuster until you get within the limits.
7)Tighten lock nut and recheck pre-load.
Adjust the pitman shaft pre-load next.
1)Loosen the lock nut and turn the lash adjuster screw in. Go in small steps here, like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut and rotate the steering wheel back and forth through the entire range. Go easy and don't "Bang" it from side to side! If the lash can't be reduced (or eliminated) or if the gear load feels rough it's porbably time to replace some internal parts.
2)Center the steering wheel, equal number of turns left to right.
3)Attach the pitman arm back up to the box and tighten the lock nut.
Hope this helps,
Here's the url for company in San Jose, Ca.
http://www.straightlinesteering.com/
Note: I have not done business with them, so this isn't an endorsement for them. Still looking for the info on the company back East.
The adjustment "Monster" is talking about is the "worm bearing adjustment". The other adjustment is for the "pitman shaft".
I would recommend that before you make any adjustments that you mark (scribe) the current position of your pitman arm and pitman shaft so you have a reference. Also have your front wheels straight, jack up the front and put jack stands under the alxe. Remove the left tire for easier access.
1)Remove the pitman arm from the steering box. Make sure the steering box bolts are tight.
2)Turn the steering wheel slowly from one side to the other. DON'T BANG IT OR FORCE IT, CAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE THE BOX!!!
3)If it feels rough when turning the steering wheel, that usually means the parts in the box are worn or faulty. If it's hard to turn or binding it's probably excessive worm bearing adjustment or the steering shaft (column) is mis-aligned.
4)Turn the wheel gently all the way to the left (or right). This takes the box off the "high point load".
5)With a spring scale (I've used a light, 0-25Lbs, fishing spring scale, also useful when setting up the pre-load on the steering knuckles)measure the pull required to keep the wheel in motion. Light duty boxes should be in a range of about 1/2 to 3/4 lbs. Heavy duty boxes about 1-1/2 to 2 lbs. Note: adjustments made with the correct lube installed.
6)Loosen the worn bearing adjuster lock nut and turn the adjuster until you get within the limits.
7)Tighten lock nut and recheck pre-load.
Adjust the pitman shaft pre-load next.
1)Loosen the lock nut and turn the lash adjuster screw in. Go in small steps here, like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut and rotate the steering wheel back and forth through the entire range. Go easy and don't "Bang" it from side to side! If the lash can't be reduced (or eliminated) or if the gear load feels rough it's porbably time to replace some internal parts.
2)Center the steering wheel, equal number of turns left to right.
3)Attach the pitman arm back up to the box and tighten the lock nut.
Hope this helps,
i tightened the input shaft. it took most of the play but then it felt like the steering was caughting on something so i had to loosen it back up. I haven't tryed the pitman shaft yet. also, I put dual stabilizers on the front. that helped considerably. at least now i can drive it.