Yup already hv it and seems to me the gap for trim piece is not nearly big enough I can hardly fit the tool in it side ways so we'll see. wish me luck.
http://store.snapon.com/Window-and-...on-Tool-Windshield-Locking-Strip-P636288.aspx THIS tool, or one likw it.....I think I ordered one from NAPA is the one everyone needs. It has sizes for 4 different profiles. It works MUCH better.
tool Thanks for the tool info it looks to be a better choice will c if I can pick one up this weekend.
Seriously, Karen, Let me know if you have further questions. Happy to try to help if I can. I understand about wanting to share the finished truck with your Dad.
Wiring was always my favorite part of any build and the more accessories the better but then came old age, stiff joints, and especially weak eyes. Was very satisfying to wire everything up, push/pull/turn all the switches and have everything work. A tip on any switch with multiple wires: use an ohm meter or battery and test light to sort everything out on the bench and label each wire. On an ignition switch hook one lead to the "BAT" terminal (or red wire if multi connector is plugged onto switch) and then turn switch to the ON position. Two wires (or terminals) will be hot--the ignition (or coil) and the accessory. One will be cold--the Start (or SOL). Now turn the key to the "Start" position and one of the previously hot wires will be cold-- this is the accessory terminal (or wire) and the only terminal that was cold in the "ON" position is now hot--this is the "Start or SOL" terminal. The extra wires you have on a five wire switch are usually for accessories. You can check: every wire that goes cold when the switch is turned to the "Start" position is for accessoriess; only the "IGN/coil" wire and "Start/Sol" wire are hot in the start position. We will be coming through KC in September and would like to see your truck. Come up 71 and take the by-pass go around downtown on the south and pass the airport on the west to catch I29 to Sioux City, IA. I think we are in Kansas for a bit, I know we see signs for Shawnee Mission which is where I used to order parts from Mark when he first started Chevy Duty.
Ign Thanks for the great info on the switch. It is a two postion switch off and on with push button start. there are 3 screws to hook wires to on the switch. When I took the switch out I cut all the wires and left them on the switch. The power lead goes to one screw by itself and the other to screws have two wires going to each one of them. One has like a Heat sink or resistor of some sort on it. does that make sense?
Well, Does the truck have the original gauges in it, (I.E. 6 volt?) Is it now a 12 volt system? If both of these are true, the resistor may be just to power the 6 volt stuff. Whatever the original wires were, kinda' doesn't matter now. You have to decide what all needs to be powered by your ign. switch, using your new wiring harness. Check your switch and make sure you know which is the 'common' terminal. That's the one that will be 'Bat' hot. This one should have no connection to the other terminals when the switch is 'Off'. If your switch only has 2 positions, the 'Bat' terminal should connect with both others in the 'On' position. Look at the page in the harness instructions indicating 'Dash Ignition Switch'. Your switch will have the wire marked 'IGN Sw Start' connected with 'IGN Sw Coil', and 'IGN Sw IGN', all connected to one side of the 'ON' part of the switch. The 'Start' wire will then go to your pushbutton 'START' button, then to the starter solenoid. The 'IGN SW Acc' wire connects to the other 'ON' terminal of the ign switch. This wire, when energized, feeds power to all the fuses that run 'Accessories'. If you have 6 volt gauges, there will be issues with using the EZ Wiring harness wire marked 'Gauge PWR'. You will need a resistor in series with this wire, before it goes to the gauges, in order to reduce the voltage to 6 volts. ( The resistor on your ignition switch may be for the gauges, or possibly it was in the 'IGN Sw Coil' wire, to reduce voltage to the points.) I hope this doesn't prove more confusing for you. I'm retired, and usually available on the phone if you think I can help that way. I have my set of instructions that came with the EZ Wiring harness. 361-455-3334. We can cover a lot more ground talking in person if we need to. Bill Brubaker
Thanks Bill This helps me a lot. I am entering your # in my phone as we speak and will holler if I get into trouble. I have to teach a motorcycle class this weekend so will prob be Monday before I can give it a try. Thank YOU..
Oh Yeah forgot this part Original Gauges and switched from 6v to 12v I have a resistor for points and guessing I will need another one for gauges and I have that one as well.
Yes MSF teach at the Kansas City Kansas Community College. Love it.. I have been at it for about 10 yrs or so now.
Iron Horse Instructor THANK YOU KAREN ! . There wasn't any Moto training when I began riding but I made damnsure my Son got it and of course , he's a better Motocycle rider than I ever was or will be . He's WAY faster too ! . He likes to race Motos Competitively , I just like to ride as far and fast as I feel is prudent for the given moment .
I have calmed down with AGE and do like to go fast every once in awhile. Teaching again this weekend and with 99 deg temp here just touching the metal on the ole 52 in shade is hot. Been working on the little things. Plugging along and sad to say prob be another year before I can get it on the road.
Well ; You sound like you're doing great to me Karen ! . My Son , he didn't like his ' slow ' Domestic market Honda Civic RHD Coupe so he bought a Super Motard and now commutes in L.A.'s pre dawn traffic @ 125 + MPH ~ foolish in my book but then what the hell do I know ? . If you keep plugging along with the Baby Steps , one day you'll realize you're re assembling it and it's all down hill from there .
Baby steps You know I have been doing baby steps FOREVER almost 10 yrs now and I don't see that changing any time soon. I just know if I only had some help it would progress quicker but I just keep plugging along. Time Time Time and not enough of it.
Hello Evan wanted to let you know still working on the switch. I look at it and quit going on to something else, but in the end return only to go on to something else. Funny how that works. I know which wires go to the ign but don't know which lug to put them on so gonna get out the omh meter and try that this evening. Also I'd like to have ya swing by on your way thru KC if ya get time. I have to work a couple of those weekends so hopefully it would work out. I have the truck in two places most of it at my garage and some at my Dad's garage. I live off of I-635 and Shawnee Dr. in KCKS if ya get time come on by I'll put ya to work!!!!!!!!!! LOL
Electrical Testing Karen ; Always use a test light ! meters are easy to get false readings and take up too much time anyway , with a test light it's always either YES or NO .
Oh goodness you guys forget I am not mechanicaly inclined and am learning this stuff as you all tell me about it. Okay will google test light and go from there.
I think this is what Nate's referring to. It requires a power source, though, where a meter does not. If your battery is hooked up, OK. Otherwise a meter is still my suggestion. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0221_-1_-1&pt=N0221&ppt=C0371
